Slow 2011 ApexSE

for the hell of it i decided to throw the sled in diag mode. servo motor was sitting at 55(where 54 is bang on). Did a test going from 0 to only 165 so the outer adjuster above the secondary i loosened the lock nut and spun the collar about 6 times clockwise until i got the motor to reach 190 and settle at 180.

i cant say for sure if this actually affects top end but i can say i wasnt impressed lately with the top end so maybe it will help. wont be able to test since trails are not hard enough with the warmer temps.

Sure is a quick and easy way to see if its adjusted properly or not
 
can someone post a step by step on how exactly to check exup cable settings please? my 2011 apex 128" has a pc5, ulmer airbox mod and ulmer clutching and will only run about 105 mph. it has 900 miles on it. I had it to the dealer and they swear it is correct, but they are also the same dealer who over filled my 2011 vector with oil at the 500 mile service causing it to puke oil in the airbox and run out the belly pan. lol. anyway, i am going up riding the second week of march and would love to figure it out before i go.
 
On first page there's six downloads of what to do but ill summarize here:

1. hold select and reset before you turn key on, hold them down while you turn key on and continue holding for about 8 seconds.

2. Once the guage shows "D1" release after those eight seconds and hold again for a couple more seconds.

3. Push select or reset button to change the "D#" to "D53".

4. Once there push the handwarmer control down once and the motor will operate.

5. Be sure to record the numbers that you see just before you pus the handwarmer button and also when it opens and closes.

6. To get out of diag mode just turn the key off, keep in mind this is done with the sled off
 
almond1000 said:
can someone post a step by step on how exactly to check exup cable settings please? my 2011 apex 128" has a pc5, ulmer airbox mod and ulmer clutching and will only run about 105 mph. it has 900 miles on it. I had it to the dealer and they swear it is correct, but they are also the same dealer who over filled my 2011 vector with oil at the 500 mile service causing it to puke oil in the airbox and run out the belly pan. lol. anyway, i am going up riding the second week of march and would love to figure it out before i go.

What are you seeing out of the hole? How about on top end? For rpms...
 
yamahahaapex said:
On first page there's six downloads of what to do but ill summarize here:

1. hold select and reset before you turn key on, hold them down while you turn key on and continue holding for about 8 seconds.

2. Once the guage shows "D1" release after those eight seconds and hold again for a couple more seconds.

3. Push select or reset button to change the "D#" to "D53".

4. Once there push the handwarmer control down once and the motor will operate.

5. Be sure to record the numbers that you see just before you pus the handwarmer button and also when it opens and closes.

6. To get out of diag mode just turn the key off, keep in mind this is done with the sled off

Once you get the numbers recorded adjusting the motor is simple based on what you have recorded. Couple threads here, couple there but let us know how you make out
 
yamahahaapex said:
Daranello said:
Nope, I did the adjustment myself...click pics to play videos

See videos (click on the pictures to play video's)




What are you seeing when in diag mode? Videos wont open for me

Starts at 54 goes to 189..then settles in at 184...then back to 0.... my EXUP is bang on
 
here is what i get when i do the test.
starts at 0 then goes to 172 for a second and drops to 159 and stays there.
rpm is right on, i can go to wot from a dead stop and it goes right to 10,600 and will hold that rpm all the way across the lake, the sled is always consistant in top speed of 105 and rpm of 10,600, clutches are not hot and i never smell belt burning
 
what is the best way to adjust this and where do i want the numbers to be at?
 
2011+apexs like a little higher rpms than my 07s did so i run about 10,800-max 11,000.

take your left panel off

the black motor right by your clutch guard is what youre looking for

just by the motor is two black wires leading towards your servo motor

pull the sleeve off the outer one, loosen the lock washer and rotate the sleeve clockwise about 2 threads while holding the rest of the wire with your other hand

tighten the lock washer and do the diagnostic test again.

the outer wire controls the slack for how much your giving to give it to open at full throttle
 
do it a little at a time and then test, your pretty close to having it rest at 176 which i what two brand new '12 se's were set at on the floor
 
almond1000 said:
here is what i get when i do the test.
starts at 0 then goes to 172 for a second and drops to 159 and stays there.
rpm is right on, i can go to wot from a dead stop and it goes right to 10,600 and will hold that rpm all the way across the lake, the sled is always consistant in top speed of 105 and rpm of 10,600, clutches are not hot and i never smell belt burning

let us know if it changed your top speed if you have good enough conditions for it
 
You know I think I found it, track is loose (normally would consider it fine) but with the minimal clearances I could see the lugs of my track wearing from hitting the protectors!!!
 
did you just trade for a 128"? Thought you had an xtx but since were about 60/40 trail/cross country I dont have studs and run the track tight enough that there is about an inch of track hanging at centre. For this reason I took out the protectors to help with the icing issue which has improved alot

Sliders got 2000kms on and worn down but over 14mms left
 


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