slp anti-wear pads ?

cdsgraphic said:
I have never done this or used slp's product. But does it hurt anything to drill thru that area of the track? Isn't there a large enforcing rib of fiberglass or something running thru that areas?

Trevor

There are nothing in the area where you put the bolt. Remember that at fully clippet track has a big hole there. The dravback with elevatorbolts (flat head) is that they not creating much space between the track and the hyfax.
 
Excellent and I have 2 Fastenal locations in my town.
cdsgraphic said:
Hey guys, if you want to do this yourself, I would think the elevator bolts would be a much better idea than using carriage bolts. The elevator bolts have a flat (actually slightly concave) large head.

Here's a link to some Elevator Bolts (not sure of the length needed, but maybe get longer ones and just cut the excess off), HERE

And here's some locking Jam Nuts (low profile nuts), HERE

Need some washers and your all set.

I have never done this or used slp's product. But does it hurt anything to drill thru that area of the track? Isn't there a large enforcing rib of fiberglass or something running thru that areas?

Trevor
 
Him said:
cdsgraphic said:
I have never done this or used slp's product. But does it hurt anything to drill thru that area of the track? Isn't there a large enforcing rib of fiberglass or something running thru that areas?

Trevor

There are nothing in the area where you put the bolt. Remember that at fully clippet track has a big hole there. The dravback with elevatorbolts (flat head) is that they not creating much space between the track and the hyfax.

Ah, ok I get it now, you put the bolts where the windows would normally be but are not cut out... I thought they were going were the clips would normally be. Ya know, I think the track on my phazer has all the windows open, just doesn't have clips on every one. I'll have to double check tonight.

Trevor
 
I had over 2000 miles on my set of wear pads and i had to replace them.. they were starting to wear threw and fall off..

They helped the slides last alot longer though..
 
cdsgraphic said:
Hey guys, if you want to do this yourself, I would think the elevator bolts would be a much better idea than using carriage bolts. The elevator bolts have a flat (actually slightly concave) large head.

I wonder about the concave or countersunk head. Looks to me like it could catch and dig in. The SLPs are slightly domed and will only catch after they wear down. I put 3 to 4 thousand miles on my SLPs and they where no where near being worn out.

The elevator bolts are going to start wearing on the leading edge and in a short time I think they will sharpen and catch. The SLPs wear in the middle and over time they get to the edge. Once they are wearing at or near the edge I would replace them before they caught a slider. The elevater bolts start at that point. I would not recommend them.
 
elevator bolts vs SLP bolts

I have tried to use the elevator bolts also, but if you look real close at the SLP bolts, you will find that they have a slight dome on the head. The elevator bolts that I found were flat. I thought maybe the edges of the elevator bolts would actually cause more wear than the SLP bolts. Just my thoughts. The last time I bought SLP bolts, one of the aftermarket catalogs had them in bulk, and you could order as many as you wanted, and they were about half the price.
 


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