

Has anyone found better bushings for the a-arms?
xc_phazer137
Expert
I would like to know too because I got a bad set or something. My front end is a sloppy mess. I found a Mt dew can cut up and shoved inside the stearing splinds is a temp fix with stearing slop. Nothing on the bushings tho?
gerard143
Pro
ya mine sqeaks too!
xc_phazer137
Expert
I am going to have to listen to er" er" er" er"er " for 500 miles haha. I dont care. "Let "er" buck"
phazme
Extreme
used maxima chain wax on my sway bar links sweaks gone works great.

UP bushman
VIP Member
Hey guys I have a MTN. Lite with no sway bar and my bushings had to be replaced at 1900 miles. They did squeak also, I put grease zerks in all the pivot points on A Arms. I'll pump them full of grease every 300 miles or so no noise at all. It is a little bit of work but they will not have to be removed again unless the unthinkable happens CRASH. I'll post pictures as soon as I get them.


Yes very interested.Especially the front lower arm pivots.Fitting placement would have to be right on to clear the saddle arm is attached to.Thanks.
Ulmer sells a bushing kit but even with that grease fittings would be nice.
Oh and if you are out of factory warrantee and into the YES warantee bushings are NOT covered.With everything I needed it costed me $80 for stock bushings and sleeves.
Ulmer sells a bushing kit but even with that grease fittings would be nice.
Oh and if you are out of factory warrantee and into the YES warantee bushings are NOT covered.With everything I needed it costed me $80 for stock bushings and sleeves.


upbushman said:Hey guys I have a MTN. Lite with no sway bar and my bushings had to be replaced at 1900 miles. They did squeak also, I put grease zerks in all the pivot points on A Arms. I'll pump them full of grease every 300 miles or so no noise at all. It is a little bit of work but they will not have to be removed again unless the unthinkable happens CRASH. I'll post pictures as soon as I get them.
Sorry for buggin you but did you takepics?I cant see where zerk would fit on the front lower arm pivot.

UP bushman
VIP Member
Hey cannondale27 I'll take pictures tommorow and post them. Believe it or not the pictures will show I did manage to get zerks in the bottom arm pivot points but it sure is close between a 1/16" to 1/8".


Thank you.I only want to take front end apart once.Any tips on getting to the nuts.Airbox off?

UP bushman
VIP Member
Ditch Banger
Newbie
Greasing Bushings
If those bushings are polyerathane, normal patrolium based grease will eat through them and they will fail prematurely (had it happen in a lot of cars). With polyerathane bushings you have to use a silicone based lubercant. I am not sure what bushings are in there. Just some food for thought. Let me know, I have the same squeek in my GT.
Cheers
If those bushings are polyerathane, normal patrolium based grease will eat through them and they will fail prematurely (had it happen in a lot of cars). With polyerathane bushings you have to use a silicone based lubercant. I am not sure what bushings are in there. Just some food for thought. Let me know, I have the same squeek in my GT.
Cheers



Thank You UpBushman.Appreciated am going to dig in tonight.Did you have to take airbox off to get at the back upper nuts or is there a easier way?
DitchBanger yes I have seen that also.Really cant tell for sure but they look to be made of same material as skid bushings which have grease.I use Synthetic either way though.Only thing that sticks in the sloppy fits for more than a ride.Especially the rear scissor.
DitchBanger yes I have seen that also.Really cant tell for sure but they look to be made of same material as skid bushings which have grease.I use Synthetic either way though.Only thing that sticks in the sloppy fits for more than a ride.Especially the rear scissor.

UP bushman
VIP Member
Yes cannondale27 easiest way is to remove air box, those zerks are tapped in not just the press in type. thread in type were all I could find to get the shortest ones possible good luck. just grease and ride no wrenching is the best way to fly.


Jeeze.Got left side done.#7 drill went through easily.1/4 20 tap was not easy.Not sure what that is made of but was very hard to tap.Ended up grinding some threads off fitting on upper one so fitting didnt hit the sleeve and bottom front so I didnt have to drill through bushing with Drill.Used a 1/16 at a angle to try keeping as much bushing in.My old bushings were more squished than wore I believe.New ones back lower is sloppy fit right off bat.Suspect A-arm bore is oversize.Sleeves looked okay put new in anyway.The insides had what looked like dry dirt/dust and a little rust in them.Oh yeah yearly all this is supposed to be taken apart and greased with replacement bushings where needed according to Yamaha!What a joke.Put some grease fittings in at factory for crying out loud!See you all tomorrow I need to get some sleep before my OTHER full time job that pays 
Thanks for your help U.P.

Thanks for your help U.P.
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