• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

Stalling Attak and low idle at start up

renegademan17

Extreme
Joined
Mar 24, 2007
Messages
59
Age
52
Location
Duluth, MN
Country
USA
Snowmobile
2007 Attak, 97 700SX, 76 Ski Doo Olympic
Just had my 1st trip and noticed my 07 Attak with 5800 miles is starting harder and when she starts idle is very low to almost stalling. After riding the first 10-15 min. when coming to a stop it stalls. Turn key off and it starts right back up. It also cuts out when getting on throttle in the first 10-15 min also. Had into dealer last spring for oil and I mentioned to sync injectors and check operation. Dealer said my fuel adjusters were seized and could not adjust but seemed to run fine which it does when warmed up. My question is do the fuel injectors need to be synced and what kind of cost am I looking at if the whole adjusters need to be replaced? Has anyone else synced their injectors and how often?
 

What's it idling at cold and then once warm? Might be able to bump your idle up a little bit. Have you ever changed the plugs? Always let it warm up before you move it?
 
Just had my 1st trip and noticed my 07 Attak with 5800 miles is starting harder and when she starts idle is very low to almost stalling. After riding the first 10-15 min. when coming to a stop it stalls. Turn key off and it starts right back up. It also cuts out when getting on throttle in the first 10-15 min also. Had into dealer last spring for oil and I mentioned to sync injectors and check operation. Dealer said my fuel adjusters were seized and could not adjust but seemed to run fine which it does when warmed up. My question is do the fuel injectors need to be synced and what kind of cost am I looking at if the whole adjusters need to be replaced? Has anyone else synced their injectors and how often?
I had this happen to a snowmobile. Unplug the electrical part of the pressure sensor. It has a vacuum line on the bottom but don't unplug that. It will throw a code but won't hurt anything. See if the problem goes away.
 
What's it idling at cold and then once warm? Might be able to bump your idle up a little bit. Have you ever changed the plugs? Always let it warm up before you move it?
Yes, changed plugs back o stock about 1500k ago. Just started acting up this year. new battery last year too higher CA and needs 4 turns to get going and she barely keeps running. but once warm it idles fine, a few stutters here and there, but the stalling still happens. Have it torn down now and will be burning the candle on here and in the garage!
 
I had this happen to a snowmobile. Unplug the electrical part of the pressure sensor. It has a vacuum line on the bottom but don't unplug that. It will throw a code but won't hurt anything. See if the problem goes away.
Think to try pressure sensor before looking into CO adjustment? My search seemed to come up with a lot of different fixes to the same issue??
 
Did you look at what the idle rpm was at before tearing it apart?
 
Have a bud with identical symptoms you describe on an 06 Apex, however his sled had many more miles than yours. He tried pretty much everything suggested above and then some over two seasons and no improvement. He ended up doing a valve adjustment (which it did need after getting into it) and that solved the problem 100%.
For sure try the obvious adjustments, but thought I would throw this out there fwiw.
 
Have a bud with identical symptoms you describe on an 06 Apex, however his sled had many more miles than yours. He tried pretty much everything suggested above and then some over two seasons and no improvement. He ended up doing a valve adjustment (which it did need after getting into it) and that solved the problem 100%.
For sure try the obvious adjustments, but thought I would throw this out there fwiw.
Hope its not the valve adjustment, manual calls for every 25k!
 
Did you look at what the idle rpm was at before tearing it apart?
Idle is right in spec when warm 1500, after doing more looking I am going to verify my CO settings since I do have the Ulmer air box mod and honestly cannot remember if I adjusted once installed. Funny thing is that it ran fine for 4 years after air box mod and now is stalling. Also going to try MR. Sled recommendations on the pressure sensor. Also noted that my throttle body sync screw #1 is seized and don't know if that may be a issue. I assume special tool is needed for doing the sync via a vacuum tube?
 
sounds like you could have a bad TPS. just a thought Yamaha had a bad batch of them at one point.
 
Everything above could be the issue. Start simplest and then work your way back in order of time/money depending on which you value more.
 
I had this happen to a snowmobile. Unplug the electrical part of the pressure sensor. It has a vacuum line on the bottom but don't unplug that. It will throw a code but won't hurt anything. See if the problem goes away.
Question: Unplug while not running with key on or running? Just starting to put back together. Thanks
 
Question: Unplug while not running with key on or running? Just starting to put back together. Thanks

You can do it when running or when its off, either way it should give you the same outcome. You will either get a code and it will do the same as before and run like crap and want to die when warmed up or it will show code and run perfect.
 


Back
Top