Starter change....need help

[Ximer10]

Hey guys just blew my first starter on my 14' viper xtx. I have a shop manual but it isnt much help. All it tells me is i need to remove both clutches the air intake, fuel tank and 2 motor mounts then "gently" pry on engine to access starter? im sure someone here has replaced a starter and can point me in the right direction...the starter is just free spooling, does this mean my ring gear is shot also? man what the hell am i getting myself into? lol

Thanks in advance for any help!

 

[cannondale27]

Between the access panel and removing the header I believe you can get starter out. Then you will need to look and see if the idler gear is also shot. That's behind flywheel side engine cover. I still recommend oil pan removal along with oil pump disassembly if every spec of metal cant be accounted for. Some have just got what they can and took chance on leaving some in Pan. I would not. Oil Pan can be removed by tilting engine forward or just removing it.

 

[Ximer10]

Between the access panel and removing the header I believe you can get starter out. Then you will need to look and see if the idler gear is also shot. That's behind flywheel side engine cover. I still recommend oil pan removal along with oil pump disassembly if every spec of metal cant be accounted for. Some have just got what they can and took chance on leaving some in Pan. I would not. Oil Pan can be removed by tilting engine forward or just removing it.

Hey sorry, access panel? not sure what you mean? and header as in the exhaust header?

 

[cannondale27]

Access panel is the same panel under sled you remove to change oil filter. Yes Exhaust Header.

 

[cannondale27]

Warrantee it. They are supposed to cover all. It happened on way to dealer to find out about flash right?

 

[YamaCat_2014]

I just did mine a few weeks ago, you can get the starter out from the belly panel (where you drain and remove the oil filter) no need to remove anything else. You'll need to have the front lifted up to get fully under it.

 

[09nytro]

Drain the oil then disconnect negative battery cable, pull off muffler, then you will have to remove the support bracket ( have to remove it to get to bolts on side cover ) remove side cover , you can see the starter and gear and check the damage.... you can get starter out from bottom like mentioned .... I would pull off oil pan to just to be safe ... makes it pretty easy to do if you get the air box out of the way (take it out)

 

[Ximer10]

awesome thanks for the tips guys, would go out and work on her but its -34 here at the moment.....i need a heated garage!

 

[YamaCat_2014]

Did you have a kick back and that's why your starter is messed up?

 

[Ximer10]

Did you have a kick back and that's why your starter is messed up?

YES!! and I just ripped the starter out and idler gear and they are both NFG. The service manager told me that my sled was never updated with the bulletin about the kickback ECU reflash. Now i just contacted yahama to see if they would at least cover the cost of the parts since i was never notified of this bulletin. But yamaha says it needs to be serviced by a certified yamaha dealership to "diagnose" the problem??? I know what the problem is the idler gear is ripped to shreds and my starter pinion is stripped?? does anyone have a phone number that i can actually speak with someone from yamaha?? he replied my email but i cant reply back?

 

[Ximer10]

Warrantee it. They are supposed to cover all. It happened on way to dealer to find out about flash right?

how can i warrantee it? its 2 years out of warrantee??

 

[Pstn head]

I beilieve there covered by warranty, call a dealer.

 

[YamaCat_2014]

I ripped into it myself without checking with the dealer, ussaly trying to get free repairs from service with an out of warranty is kinda like pulling g teeth, but probably worth trying.

I bought a aftermarket starter from Dennis Kirk for $200 and bought the updated starter gear idler and other misc parts from a Yamaha dealership. Altogether it cost me a little over $300 for parts.

 

[YamaCat_2014]

As a fyi, since I just did this repair here is my few tips.

Buy a small flexible magnet tool you can fish into tight spaces to find metal shavings.

Remove the lowet plastic crawling, this will take drilling out 9 or so rivets, but makes access much easier.

Removing oil pan, with out disconnecting the motor mounts and whatever else intels to tilt the motor, I wasn't able to remove the oil pan, however you can drop it down far enough to look I side and fish out all the metal shavings and can look at the metal mesh pick up screen on the oil pump. The disadvantage to this method is you end up having to reuse the oil pan gasket, it just didn't seem possible to fish a new one in without damaging it. Reusing my old one wasn't an issue since it was still in great shape.

I personally see no resone to remove the mechanical oil pump on the bottom of the engine, based on the fact that typically you will have a kick back and the motor will not turn over when attempting to start it again (like I did because I had no clue what happen) so since it's a mechanical driven pump it won't pick up any material then, however I would use that flexible magnet to fish around for cling-on metal shavings.

 

[yamamarc]

As a fyi, since I just did this repair here is my few tips.

Buy a small flexible magnet tool you can fish into tight spaces to find metal shavings.

Remove the lowet plastic crawling, this will take drilling out 9 or so rivets, but makes access much easier.

Removing oil pan, with out disconnecting the motor mounts and whatever else intels to tilt the motor, I wasn't able to remove the oil pan, however you can drop it down far enough to look I side and fish out all the metal shavings and can look at the metal mesh pick up screen on the oil pump. The disadvantage to this method is you end up having to reuse the oil pan gasket, it just didn't seem possible to fish a new one in without damaging it. Reusing my old one wasn't an issue since it was still in great shape.

I personally see no resone to remove the mechanical oil pump on the bottom of the engine, based on the fact that typically you will have a kick back and the motor will not turn over when attempting to start it again (like I did because I had no clue what happen) so since it's a mechanical driven pump it won't pick up any material then, however I would use that flexible magnet to fish around for cling-on metal shavings.

just wondering since you just replaced yours I was looking at the bottom and it look like you can cut the opening for the oil change bigger and fab a bigger access cover. If the access was bigger would it help on removal and install of starter?