• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

Stator/Pickup sensor replacement

thor452 said:
I don't know with the Phazer but on the apex people claim to have to elongate the holes to get it to proper adjustment. FWIW
Click to expand...
I forgot to thank you for the heads up on this. The SPI crank sensor and mounting holes seemed to match up with the Yamaha one just fine. So far I have only run the sled on my lift but it seems to run as it should. I have to button up a few more things before I can ride it up and down the street to see how it goes. G.B.
 

Gone Blue said:
SHE RUNS AGAIN!!!!

Sorry for the delay in replying. I had shoulder surgery and then we had a couple Holidays. So finally got back out in the garage today. So my no crank issue after replacing the crank sensor was a ground I forgot to reconnect. Duh! So after that the sled would start and run rough for 30 seconds and then die. Since I didn't get any instructions with the SPI sensor I went with our best guess on Black to Black and White to Grey for the wiring. Since we didn't really take any other wires apart to replace the crank sensor, decided to switch the wires on the crank sensor. You can access the crank sensor connector right near the voltage regulator under the head light on the left side. This was our plan when we had the stator out knowing we would not have to take sled completely apart to switch the wires. So using a dental pick we where able to pull female wiring pins out of the connector so we didn't have to cut splice and solder switching the wires. That was sweet!

I haven't ridden the sled yet but it seems to run in the garage just great. Again this SPI crank sensor was only $18 shipped! Compare this to $140 for an SPI stator and crank sensor or $280 ish for the Yamaha stator and crank sensor.

So anyone using this SPI crank sensor as a fix here is the correct wiring orientation:
Yamaha BLACK wire to SPI WHITE wire and Yamaha GREY wire to SPI BLACK wire.

Now I can finish prepping the sled to sell. I have a Nytro project that I need to get too after my shoulder is rehabbed to get ready for the 2018/2019 season. Many thanks to Cannondale and others here on TY for your help with this. G.B.
Click to expand...

Hey Gone Blue, I just recently replaced my Stator with an SPI one from Royal, I'm having an issue where the sled won't run, but only fire while cranking, it sometimes runs on its own but for only 1-2 seconds. Was this similar to your problem? I wonder if they terminated the connections wrong and I just have to flip them around.
 
IslandPhazer said:
Hey Gone Blue, I just recently replaced my Stator with an SPI one from Royal, I'm having an issue where the sled won't run, but only fire while cranking, it sometimes runs on its own but for only 1-2 seconds. Was this similar to your problem? I wonder if they terminated the connections wrong and I just have to flip them around.
Click to expand...
Hmmm, yes yours sounds like it is doing what mine did. My sled would fire and run really rough for maybe 1 - 5 seconds. I think 30 seconds as I mentioned above was not correct. There was a few times that it would only run rough while hitting the key and cranking the engine. I would say that you should switch the wires at the connector under the head lamp. Pull out the light grey connector with 3 white wires off of the voltage regulator. You will find a two wire connector taped to three white wiring harness. That is the crank sensor wiring. michdog2011 was helping me and he used a 90 degree dental pick to release the female connectors so we could switch them. Let me know if you have any other questions. G.B.
 
Gone Blue said:
Hmmm, yes yours sounds like it is doing what mine did. My sled would fire and run really rough for maybe 1 - 5 seconds. I think 30 seconds as I mentioned above was not correct. There was a few times that it would only run rough while hitting the key and cranking the engine. I would say that you should switch the wires at the connector under the head lamp. Pull out the light grey connector with 3 white wires off of the voltage regulator. You will find a two wire connector taped to three white wiring harness. That is the crank sensor wiring. michdog2011 was helping me and he used a 90 degree dental pick to release the female connectors so we could switch them. Let me know if you have any other questions. G.B.
Click to expand...
I've spent days and nights on this issue, Really hoping that this is it! I'll let you know what I find
 
IslandPhazer said:
I've spent days and nights on this issue, Really hoping that this is it! I'll let you know what I find
Click to expand...
Yeah michdog2011 and I have been beating our heads into the wall too trying figure this issue out. After messing around with my sled for 4.5 hours today on this issue, I feel pretty confident that if you switch the crank sensor wires it will fix it. Let us know how you make out. G.B.
 
Gone Blue said:
Yeah michdog2011 and I have been beating our heads into the wall too trying figure this issue out. After messing around with my sled for 4.5 hours today on this issue, I feel pretty confident that if you switch the crank sensor wires it will fix it. Let us know how you make out. G.B.
Click to expand...
I owe you both a case of beer. IT RUNS! Leave it to aftermarket parts eh! I'm going to call Royal Distributing tomorrow to let them know that mine was wired backwards, maybe they can let people know in case there are other QC issues with their parts.
 
IslandPhazer said:
I owe you both a case of beer. IT RUNS! Leave it to aftermarket parts eh! I'm going to call Royal Distributing tomorrow to let them know that mine was wired backwards, maybe they can let people know in case there are other QC issues with their parts.
Click to expand...
Haha, awesome! Just glad you got it fixed. I didn't realize that you had installed an SPI stator with the crank sensor. That sux that SPI wired it wrong. Nice quality control. G.B.
 
Hey guys, cant find these parts anywhere!! Anyone have a link for the crank sensor or the stator from spi ?? Or another suitable replacement.. I am at a loss here with troubleshooting and am just going to do new crank sensor for sure and possibly the stator also. Thanks!!!!!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

T
New stator in phazer and still code 12
Replies
11
Views
2K
74Nitro
74Nitro
D
Replaced stator now water pump leak
Replies
1
Views
807
Dynomax666
D
Warp
2006 Attak code 12, crank sensor
Replies
8
Views
1K
74Nitro
74Nitro
D
Misfire code 33
Replies
10
Views
1K
74Nitro
74Nitro
Sevey
SD-65 Knock Sensor
Replies
11
Views
2K
Sevey
Sevey


Back
Top