cvenne
Veteran
- Joined
- Feb 6, 2006
- Messages
- 46
Well i had the Yammy dealer do the combustion engine cleaner with this stuff (since ringefree is not avail in CAN) http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/appar ... etail.aspx
and after about 800+ kms i am back down to the E mark on the dipstick. I guess next up is a compression test to make sure all of that is ok but just wondering, do the 2004's have this issue too? Anyone out there with an 04 have this prob? I am thinking of selling mine and getting an 04 or even an 05 depending on $$$. I got this so i wouldn't need to add oil and now this thing is only slightly better on oil than my 01 SRX...
and after about 800+ kms i am back down to the E mark on the dipstick. I guess next up is a compression test to make sure all of that is ok but just wondering, do the 2004's have this issue too? Anyone out there with an 04 have this prob? I am thinking of selling mine and getting an 04 or even an 05 depending on $$$. I got this so i wouldn't need to add oil and now this thing is only slightly better on oil than my 01 SRX...
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newrx1guy
Extreme
Don't feel bad. After 250 miles my low oil light is on. The dealer is trying to find out why. The sled is a 2003 and is under warranty. I have faith in them. I just keep adding oil.They said some of the oil burning is my riding style. I love to hold it wide open for miles and love every minute of it. Rather add oil than rebuild a 2-stroke
jmp2204
Veteran
i am not an rx1 owner however,from what i have read on this site (oil consumtion) you need to use ring free or another similar type ,i doubt your riding style has anything to do with it.newrx1guy said:Don't feel bad. After 250 miles my low oil light is on. The dealer is trying to find out why. The sled is a 2003 and is under warranty. I have faith in them. I just keep adding oil.They said some of the oil burning is my riding style. I love to hold it wide open for miles and love every minute of it. Rather add oil than rebuild a 2-stroke
nhsrx701
Veteran
- Joined
- Feb 3, 2006
- Messages
- 42
I fell your pain! You can add the ring free but......I talked to a dealer and the real fix is the updated rings.......its going to cost about 500 in parts to do the work gaskets rings and rod bolts/nuts. Ring free may work but its only a temp repair....and if you do it you need to shock the motor like four times.....
cvenne
Veteran
- Joined
- Feb 6, 2006
- Messages
- 46
So am i right is saying that this issue is NOT on the 2004 or 2005 RX1? If not then i know what i am doing......Sell this piece of #*$&@ and get a newer one....
I love the yammy's and i love the 4-stroke but i am not playing around with burning oil.....
JDMCRX
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
My thoughts on all this oil cusumption is the rings are just plain worn out IE the ring end gap is opening up and the oil control rings are carboned up.
riding style sure if u hold it open 247 that will do it. but with the clutchs the motor is always up in the revs.
josh
riding style sure if u hold it open 247 that will do it. but with the clutchs the motor is always up in the revs.
josh
I have an 04 with 6600 miles on it. I use about 1/3 to 1/2 quart in 1000 miles. I am not worried about that amount of oil consumption. I am going to use seafoam the last ride of the season just in case.
RX-1 Flyer
Newbie
Cvenne, maybe you should give Seafoam a try? There are several guys on here who've been able to get their hands on it in Canada (from Carquest) and supposedly its almost as good or as good as ringfree. I haven't tried it yet myself but am hoping to shortly as soon as I get my hands on some.....
nhsrx701
Veteran
- Joined
- Feb 3, 2006
- Messages
- 42
my thoughts are that after a certain build date you will find that yamaha had changed the rings......it also possible a bad set of rings were being installed during production dates and they caught the mistake and fixed it...again the production date would tell the story.....In my opinion I could live with a quart at 1000 miles....after all the sled is turning 8000 all day......
Tom-RX1
Expert
Sea foam is avalible at pistonring in manitoba .
Tom-RX1
Tom-RX1
cvenne
Veteran
- Joined
- Feb 6, 2006
- Messages
- 46
Maybe the seafoam is worth the try??? So with it, i just add one bottle to a tank of gas and then thats it? Do i need to change the oil after treatment? How is seafoam different from the stuff the dealer used that i included in my orig post?
Thx....
Thx....
RX-1 Flyer
Newbie
I don't knowthe difference Cvenne, but for instructions on using the Seafoam you might want to do a little reading first. Definatly NOT a whole bottle to just one tank of gas. Its been discussed a lot on here and you will find some good threads by doing a search for sea foam. Here's a couple to get you started: http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... t=sea+foam and http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... t=sea+foam
Black 1000
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I have been useing seafoam as a prventitive measure and I'm burning oil. Not a lot but enough to piss me off. But I figure that an engine that turns 10,4-10,5 most of the day will burn some. I was told by a Yamaha dealer that ring free was available in Canada but I had to buy the box of 6 for $25 each bottle. then they told me no it wasn't available in Canada. WTF if Yamaha carries it then why not in Canada. I'm going to try seafoam in the oil as a flush at the end of the season and change my oil and see what happens. As for the thermostat temp I think that the lower temp is a safe gaurd for low snow conditions. I don't know I'm at the end of the rope with this. I rode a 06 Mach Z and it was pretty nice. He got the same fuel milage as me. We were within pennies of each other. Just the rideing position was hard to get used to. 
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When I was searching for Seafoam in Manitoba I went on line. A seafoam rep gave me instructions on use. As Follows:
Jim Our product is 100% petroleum no chemicals to harm rubber, plastic,paint etc. Put 1oz of Sea foam SF-16 in the oil for every liter run the engine for 25 to 50 km and then change the oil.This will dissolve the varnish that tends to hold the rings on the piston as well as remove any water from your oil. Sea Foam in your tank will clean the lines and injectors as well as jets in a carb. unit,Sea Foam will stabilize the fuel for minimum 2 years as well as dissipate water out of the tank 1oz for every gallon do not worry too much will not harm anything.When you put the unit away in the spring put 1oz in the tank for each gallon more is better, then run the unit for 5 minutes if this unit is a carb unit use Sea Foam DC-14 which is SF-16 in an aerosol can,get to the carb with the unit running and spray DC-14 right into the carb. make sure you are outside as a lot of smoke will come out.By doing this you have cleaned all the varnish that holds carbon from the back of your intake valves and the top of your pistons.Shut the engine off and remove the spark plug (s) spray 4 to 5 squirts down the hole (s) then put the plugs back in. You have now fogged the engine and stabilized the fuel. Absolutely no problem next fall/winter to start the unit. Hope this helps work great in car trucks both gas and diesel.
Regards Paul
Jim Our product is 100% petroleum no chemicals to harm rubber, plastic,paint etc. Put 1oz of Sea foam SF-16 in the oil for every liter run the engine for 25 to 50 km and then change the oil.This will dissolve the varnish that tends to hold the rings on the piston as well as remove any water from your oil. Sea Foam in your tank will clean the lines and injectors as well as jets in a carb. unit,Sea Foam will stabilize the fuel for minimum 2 years as well as dissipate water out of the tank 1oz for every gallon do not worry too much will not harm anything.When you put the unit away in the spring put 1oz in the tank for each gallon more is better, then run the unit for 5 minutes if this unit is a carb unit use Sea Foam DC-14 which is SF-16 in an aerosol can,get to the carb with the unit running and spray DC-14 right into the carb. make sure you are outside as a lot of smoke will come out.By doing this you have cleaned all the varnish that holds carbon from the back of your intake valves and the top of your pistons.Shut the engine off and remove the spark plug (s) spray 4 to 5 squirts down the hole (s) then put the plugs back in. You have now fogged the engine and stabilized the fuel. Absolutely no problem next fall/winter to start the unit. Hope this helps work great in car trucks both gas and diesel.
Regards Paul
Bob Miller
TY 4 Stroke Master
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2003
- Messages
- 1,322
- Location
- New Milford CT
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- Present Sled: 2011 Yamaha Apex 128
On my last ride in Quebec I put Seafoam in the oil tank and the gas tank.
I ran it about 150 miles and when I got back home, I drained the oil at the crankcase and the tank and I let it drain overnight.
The next day I put about 2 QTS of regular multigrade oil and ran it till hot, than drained it again (this is a flush) you can see this oil had gotten dirty.
I than replaced the oil filter and filled it with Full Synthetic.
Up till this point I was using about 1 QT every 2000 miles, 04 Warrior. I am done for the year, so we will see what happens next year
I
I ran it about 150 miles and when I got back home, I drained the oil at the crankcase and the tank and I let it drain overnight.
The next day I put about 2 QTS of regular multigrade oil and ran it till hot, than drained it again (this is a flush) you can see this oil had gotten dirty.
I than replaced the oil filter and filled it with Full Synthetic.
Up till this point I was using about 1 QT every 2000 miles, 04 Warrior. I am done for the year, so we will see what happens next year
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I
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