Stock Ohlins Monoshock adjustment

Murse

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2011 Yamaha Apex Std Red
So I sent my shock to Hygear and getting it all fixed and upgraded but I got some good info on how to set up the suspension and thought I would share in case someone does not know like myself.

So there is a plastic black knob to turn on the shock reach under the sled turn out to allow more oil in the shock and in to allow less oil. This makes the suspension softer r stiffer. Adjust to where you want it. For me it will be soft. to test grab back bar o sled and push see how soft or stiff it is. Then once ridding on trail or where ever I it bottoms adjust the dampers via handlebar control to prevent bottoming and voila best set up. Thanks Hygear! Can't wait to get it back together and ride. Comon snow.
 
Great advice, thank you for sharing :-)
 
Do they replace or repare the wire going to the shock itself? I am looking for someone to repare my EC shock.
 
That knob is rebound. Although it does affect compression it is meant to adjust how fast your suspension returns after being compressed. If you adjust it alot you are bypassing the valving you just paid good $ to have corrected.
 
adjust a lot? which way? In or out? to allow more nitrogen or less. so knob turned in or out LOL I am going to be playing with this quite a bit this year now that I know. Funny Hygear didn't mention anything like this to me when I spoke to them.
 
Doesnt change the nitrogen it changes the flow of oil directly around the valving. In a Ohlins that oil bypassing occurs both on compression and rebound with a "jet" limting its affect on compression. Not sure why they didnt use a one way valve like on other Ohlins I have seen. But anyway Ideally the rebound knob would not be adjusted once the valving is correct. Compression which is electric can be adjusted all you want without affecting the rebound. On any shock adjusting rebound and preload should be the first adjustments you make to the shock. Then compression. Otherwise you will be affecting compression and have to start over.

Clockwise=Slower rebound/stiffer compression
Counter Clockwise=Faster rebound/softer compression

3 clicks is noticeable and if I remember right there is around 33 clicks total.
 
was going to reinstall shock then adjust rebound till the sled actually moves a fair amount as it was very stiff before. I'll sit on it to see how much drop it really does get it to where I think I will like it then adjust bottoming via thumb control while riding. If it bottoms stiffen it up a little if I feel too much ec adjustment is needed while riding ill go to the shock rebound adjuster again. Do this still feels about right. I really didn't like it last year so much I thought about a new sled. Did the hygear thing first and try adjustments see if I can get it better this year. I have been told I can make it better significantly already with the changes I have made.
 
Murse, I have the Hygear shock valving and dual spring on my 07 attack. Ross and his crew did mine before the 08 season. The sled from new would always try to kick me off the seat on rebound no matter the amount of rebound damping i would turn into the shock. Now with the changes the sled really is fun. I weight around 250 without gear on. I have about 5/16 th of thread showing for preload and run the shock at about two bars on the display on the gauge. We ride the tug hill area of N.Y. that gets really rough with no bottoming issues. Just an increase of one or two bars for compression makes a very big differance. When the trails are tighter through the trees i will bump the compression all the way up to max which keeps more weight on the skis, and, it really turns nice. The rebound is close to the middle on the adjustment at about 15 clicks and i don't need to adjust that anymore. If i ride with my wife two up i will turn the rebound in clockwise about 5 clicks. I love the change this made to the sled and ride with a bigger smile on my face. Elton
 
Elton Buss said:
Murse, I have the Hygear shock valving and dual spring on my 07 attack. Ross and his crew did mine before the 08 season. The sled from new would always try to kick me off the seat on rebound no matter the amount of rebound damping i would turn into the shock. Now with the changes the sled really is fun. I weight around 250 without gear on. I have about 5/16 th of thread showing for preload and run the shock at about two bars on the display on the gauge. We ride the tug hill area of N.Y. that gets really rough with no bottoming issues. Just an increase of one or two bars for compression makes a very big differance. When the trails are tighter through the trees i will bump the compression all the way up to max which keeps more weight on the skis, and, it really turns nice. The rebound is close to the middle on the adjustment at about 15 clicks and i don't need to adjust that anymore. If i ride with my wife two up i will turn the rebound in clockwise about 5 clicks. I love the change this made to the sled and ride with a bigger smile on my face. Elton

I also had the dual rate springs added to their valving work. Wow... what a difference it made! I loved the way my Attak Gt rode after their full system was added. It rode better than the Mega Float on my SE.

Murse, did you also add the dual rate springs or just the valving?
 
The works I did dual rate spring and valving. Spent good money I want to keep the sled and I want it to ride better. I just like the machine too much to consider something else.
 
I do have another question. There is another shock on the back of the skid with a rebound adjuster on it. What should I be doing to adjust that and what does it provide?
 
Murse said:
I do have another question. There is another shock on the back of the skid with a rebound adjuster on it. What should I be doing to adjust that and what does it provide?

Another shock on a monoshock suspension? I'm thinking you are seeing the transfer rod/control rod. Be careful if you adjust it and make sure it is all the way tightened back up. I had an 05 RX1 that I adjusted and obviously didn't tighten it back down enough, about mid riding season I was out riding with some buddies and noticed intense hook ups from a stop. To the point that when we would cross a road I would go about 3/4 throttle once I hit snow and had to let off because I was straight up and down riding on the back axle. Dummy me I didn't think to check the suspension and thought it was really cool and just coincidence with the traction and kept riding wheelies :die, after about 100 miles of riding wheelies every chance I could get, I bent the control rod at a 45 degree angle and it seperated into two pieces. :o| :o| :o| My conclusion was the nut backed off and was able to adjust itself out to full transfer until I broke it.
 
Murse you should call HyGear and follow there directions to a T for adjusting your shock. Dont touch it till you do. They are very helpful and will tell you exactly what to do starting with setting your ride hieght.
 


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