Crzy4Snow
Veteran
Been searching on here but i decided to ask anyway. First the sled background. 06 venture with an 07 engine due to a falure. 1870 miles on the engine sled has about the same. battery is three seasons old but is allways on the tender when not in use so im asuming its a good battery.
Now the problem. This weekend we went for the first ride of the season and all went well for 140 miles but on our last break about 10 miles from the truck the sled would not start, rolled over to slow to start, like a dead battery. luckely my friends skidoo has a battery and i allways carry a small set of atv jumper cables and he was able to jump it.. (yea he will never let me live that down). Ran fine to the truck but wouldnt even roll over at all when we got to the truck. Thaught the battery wire may have come loose but checked tonight and all is tight. Battery is now being charged so i can do some tests later. I will start by load testing the battery to eliminate that part. My gut says its the stator but why at 1800 or so miles. I can see if it was higher mileaged. The only change in the off season is that i did the cam chain tightener update but all went straight forword with that. I read on here that heated shield wires that are not fused can cause problems if shorted. What kind of problems would it cause? My sled has one for me and one for the passenger seat and none are fused. I have been going to redo that since ive owned it.
I am looking for advise on what could be wrong and what caused it.. I hate electrical problems and i dont want to replace a voltage regulater or stator just to burn it out again. Any suggestions would greatly be appreciated and the testing will begin tomorrow evening. The snows coming and i want to hit the trails. Thanks alot in advance... 
Now the problem. This weekend we went for the first ride of the season and all went well for 140 miles but on our last break about 10 miles from the truck the sled would not start, rolled over to slow to start, like a dead battery. luckely my friends skidoo has a battery and i allways carry a small set of atv jumper cables and he was able to jump it.. (yea he will never let me live that down). Ran fine to the truck but wouldnt even roll over at all when we got to the truck. Thaught the battery wire may have come loose but checked tonight and all is tight. Battery is now being charged so i can do some tests later. I will start by load testing the battery to eliminate that part. My gut says its the stator but why at 1800 or so miles. I can see if it was higher mileaged. The only change in the off season is that i did the cam chain tightener update but all went straight forword with that. I read on here that heated shield wires that are not fused can cause problems if shorted. What kind of problems would it cause? My sled has one for me and one for the passenger seat and none are fused. I have been going to redo that since ive owned it.
I am looking for advise on what could be wrong and what caused it.. I hate electrical problems and i dont want to replace a voltage regulater or stator just to burn it out again. Any suggestions would greatly be appreciated and the testing will begin tomorrow evening. The snows coming and i want to hit the trails. Thanks alot in advance... 
lockburner2000
VIP Member
I would start with the batt. if it run fine when you drove it after jumping it the charging system must be working id think. Also over charging a batt can wreck them.
grizztracks
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Sounds like a bad battery. I had my Vector OEM battery go bad with about the same miles. With the battery fully charged load test it and with the sled running take a voltage reading across the battery to check the charging system (13-14 volts is normal).
Get that heated shield circuit fused before it has a meltdown. You can pick up a fuse holder at most auto parts stores for a few bucks and it only takes minutes to install.
Get that heated shield circuit fused before it has a meltdown. You can pick up a fuse holder at most auto parts stores for a few bucks and it only takes minutes to install.
Yes.... test your voltage under different conditions.
Before morning ride.... 12.5 to 12.9 is good.
Engine running... 13 is either bad or the battery was recently drained and that it is in serious charging state; go ride and it will slowly climb to usual 13.6 to 14.
If it stays at low 13... you may have a one of the 3 stator field open. One quick way to measure that is to place your voltmeter on AC mode, see if you get close to a volt AC variation there. Or, the right way, measure AC from all combination of "yellow" wire coming from stator while engine running.... or measure impedance across same wires while connector out & engine not spinning.
Before morning ride.... 12.5 to 12.9 is good.
Engine running... 13 is either bad or the battery was recently drained and that it is in serious charging state; go ride and it will slowly climb to usual 13.6 to 14.
If it stays at low 13... you may have a one of the 3 stator field open. One quick way to measure that is to place your voltmeter on AC mode, see if you get close to a volt AC variation there. Or, the right way, measure AC from all combination of "yellow" wire coming from stator while engine running.... or measure impedance across same wires while connector out & engine not spinning.
Crzy4Snow
Veteran
One thing i forgot to mention is that when we got home and went to unload the sled we jump started it. It started fine but the lights were dim and it would not idle. Would a bad battery cause this or should the stator maintain itself to run even if the battery is drained. The lights were brighter off idle and it seemed to run fine as long as the rpms were up but as soon as you let off the gas it died.
Crzy4Snow
Veteran
Ok I couldnt take it any longer so i took a long lunch and went to the garage to test some things.
First test. The battery. After a good charging the battery read 12.78 volts. Did a load test and it came back good at about 300 cranking amps. A quick check after the load test and the battery bounced right back to 12.7 volts, so all seems good there.
test two. I unpluged the stater from the voltage regulator and tested the white wires with an ohm meter. placed one lead in the center wire and tested each side , side one .28 side two .29 , so all seams good there unless there is something i did wrong with that test. Please advise if i did.
test three, put the airbox back in loosly so no oil leak and started sled. volts befor start up 12.7 After the sled started dropped to 12.2 and slowly worked down to 11.8 as time went buy reguardless of rpm. ( small movement but not much. shut the sled off and the battery rebounded back to around 12.4, So im thinking voltage regulator.
Any more tests i should do before I buy a regulator. I dont know how to test stator output test or I would have done that two.. If it is the regulator why would it go bad this early or is it just a bad regulator... Thanks for the advice guys...
First test. The battery. After a good charging the battery read 12.78 volts. Did a load test and it came back good at about 300 cranking amps. A quick check after the load test and the battery bounced right back to 12.7 volts, so all seems good there.
test two. I unpluged the stater from the voltage regulator and tested the white wires with an ohm meter. placed one lead in the center wire and tested each side , side one .28 side two .29 , so all seams good there unless there is something i did wrong with that test. Please advise if i did.
test three, put the airbox back in loosly so no oil leak and started sled. volts befor start up 12.7 After the sled started dropped to 12.2 and slowly worked down to 11.8 as time went buy reguardless of rpm. ( small movement but not much. shut the sled off and the battery rebounded back to around 12.4, So im thinking voltage regulator.
Any more tests i should do before I buy a regulator. I dont know how to test stator output test or I would have done that two.. If it is the regulator why would it go bad this early or is it just a bad regulator... Thanks for the advice guys...
grizztracks
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this for the Nytro, I don't have the spec for your sled but the same method is used,
If the battery, stator and fuses all check out then I'd check the wiring and connectors and if nothing looks bad the next step is to replace the regulator (unfortunately there is not a test for the regulator other than replacing it)
If the battery, stator and fuses all check out then I'd check the wiring and connectors and if nothing looks bad the next step is to replace the regulator (unfortunately there is not a test for the regulator other than replacing it)
you tested only 2 windings. You also must test both external terminal as it is 3 windings connected in triangle. If this winding is either short or open then u may have missed it.
If this third winding is ok then you may also disconnect all other load except the CCU. Try removing fuses while keeping the meter on system voltage to see if it goes up.
If this third winding is ok then you may also disconnect all other load except the CCU. Try removing fuses while keeping the meter on system voltage to see if it goes up.
Crzy4Snow
Veteran
Thanks guys. So if i understand this correctly by pulling the fuses it is possible that a short in one of the sleds circutes could be causing a large draw on the system and not allowing the system to charge the battery. That would mean the voltage regulator could be o.k... Easy enough to test.
I went and tested the two outer leads on the stator as well and they were in spec so im ruling out the stator for now.
I went and tested the two outer leads on the stator as well and they were in spec so im ruling out the stator for now.
grizztracks
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You should get around 14 volts at 5000 RPM's.
grizztracks is right that measuring the stator output while running is a confirmation that it is right. Just make sure you place the voltmeter on the AC mode.... as it is AC. Also, the triangle thing apply.. there are 3 windings to check. The thing is, it may get a bit difficult to do it under load..that is, while the connector is in. Testing a circuit under load is best.
Under load, the stator output may go down to say 9vac. Not because its bad, but because the load exceed its capacity. Then, #*$&@ in #*$&@ out apply as far as the regulator is concerned... not enought Vin so Vout is also too low.
If you max out the electrical circuit then the system voltage will drop as you increase the load. As a result, your battery will never get and stay fully charged. That's why i suggested to disconnect lights, or whatever other circuit to observe if goes up to around 13.9. And yes... the battery can be a big consumer too if it is shut.. but you cannot remove it from the circuit as it is part of the regulation system.
Under load, the stator output may go down to say 9vac. Not because its bad, but because the load exceed its capacity. Then, #*$&@ in #*$&@ out apply as far as the regulator is concerned... not enought Vin so Vout is also too low.
If you max out the electrical circuit then the system voltage will drop as you increase the load. As a result, your battery will never get and stay fully charged. That's why i suggested to disconnect lights, or whatever other circuit to observe if goes up to around 13.9. And yes... the battery can be a big consumer too if it is shut.. but you cannot remove it from the circuit as it is part of the regulation system.
Crzy4Snow
Veteran
Great advice guys. I went to the garage after work to pull the fuses and retest the charging system. I did the first test again with all fuses in place and had the same results. battery 12.7 before starting. and a slight drop in voltage after start no mater what rpm.
pulled all the fuses except the ignition. and did the test again. 12.7 after start at idle. then to my suprize the voltage gradually climbed with the rpms to arount 14.1 at an estimated 5000 rpms , no tach cause i pulled the fuse just went by sound. Hurray its charging. Put the fuses back in to pull them one by one to see what happens. Started with the accy fuse, pull it and no change still no charge next was the headlight fuse. as soon as i pulled it out the volts shot right up to 14 put the fuse in and dropped to 12 volts even. NOW IM MORE CONFUSED THAN EVER.
What do you guys think is going wrong?
pulled all the fuses except the ignition. and did the test again. 12.7 after start at idle. then to my suprize the voltage gradually climbed with the rpms to arount 14.1 at an estimated 5000 rpms , no tach cause i pulled the fuse just went by sound. Hurray its charging. Put the fuses back in to pull them one by one to see what happens. Started with the accy fuse, pull it and no change still no charge next was the headlight fuse. as soon as i pulled it out the volts shot right up to 14 put the fuse in and dropped to 12 volts even. NOW IM MORE CONFUSED THAN EVER.
What do you guys think is going wrong?
Mooseman
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Maybe, just maybe, try and unplug headlight bulbs one at a time. Although I have seen this in regular incandescent dual filament bulbs, a filament may have broken and shorted to the other filament, lighting both and sucking double the power. Had that happen in my truck once where the brake lights were coming on with my parking lights and vice versa.
grizztracks
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If the stator checked out ok then you have a bad regulator. It's not regulating the voltage properly under a load.
Crzy4Snow
Veteran
could it be a problem in the lighting circut as i did have the seat off when i did the cam chain tightener and the tailight wire does run under there. or would that blow the fuse before it affects the voltage?
