stub shaft moved in on bearing

[Dr. FeeLGooD]

Is there a way to press the bearing off the shaft to install loctite with out ruining the seal or bearing? My shaft was in about a millimeter and the bearing is moved in almost as much also. I pressed the bearing on the shaft further to see if it would move tighter and it did, but likely I need a new bearing and seal if I want to loctite it?

 

[ClutchMaster]

Just press it apart!
Loctite and back together. Don’t worry about pressing across the bearing itself, there’s no way to avoid it.
It won’t hurt the bearing.

 

[ClutchMaster]

Use Loctite 609

 

[Dr. FeeLGooD]

Great. Thanks guys.

 

[Dr. FeeLGooD]

I took it to a machine shop to press apart, they had fittings that reached in and pushed against the inner race for his press. It made a loud bang when the huge press did its job. Machinist said it was very tight. I offered him $20 for their coffee fund and he said something like ' ". I am now at about 59.25 mm offset. I will bring beer when I get my secondary shaved.

 

[WVTurboLTX]

Mine was tight as hell. Ruined the bearing and seal taking it apart in my press. Maybe I should have used a couple blocks of wood and a small sledge hammer. That's how the professional shops do it.

 

[waldo1]

just did mine - not even close to easy ---- the location being 1mm off to proposed home position - i think thats the location that bearing is pushed in from the factory.... alot of work for 1mm - i dont think its moving due to a blown belt,,, and if it is, maby thats a good thing - id spend 5 minutes with a slide hammer to re locate it, instead of the 4 hours of skilled labor and a machine shop by removing it and repressing it in...?? and if your gona do that - since u push bearing out by inner - not good for bearing so u probably should insert a new one for the 30 bucks it costs, and a new seal while your at it --- big waist o time and money here... imo.... slide hammer it home and call it good..

 

[KnappAttack]

It's usually the bearing that slides in on the housing. I've not seen a shaft move on the bearing before, but the bearing slides easily on the housing, this is why I loctite the bearing to the housing.

 

[WVTurboLTX]

It's usually the bearing that slides in on the housing. I've not seen a shaft move on the bearing before, but the bearing slides easily on the housing, this is why I loctite the bearing to the housing.

I was taking it apart to loctite both but absolutely didn't need it on the shaft. No way blowing a belt would put the pressure required to move it on there. Oh well, new bearing and seal on the way. Won't move any more in either place when I'm done.

 

[Turboflash]

Use Loctite 609

Hey Clutchmaster,
This weekend I had the pleasure of assisting with the changing of a track on 2017 Tcat. The owner had heard about the issues with the track shaft spinning in the brake side bearing and decided to prevent that by applying Locite 609 to both the chain case side bearing and the brake side bearing. He acetoned both the ID of the bearings and the track shaft (both sides) and upon assembly applies Loctite 609 to the bearing IDs. It was unbelievable how well that Loctite welded the two together. Fortunately, on the brake side we had the puller template Travis from BOP sent and we made the puller from 3/8" thick steel. We heated the shaft under the bearing and with the puller we were able to pull the caliper housing off. However, on the chain case side even with enough heat to ruin the seal, the shaft and bearing were locked together despite lots of pounding on the end of the track shaft. We ended up removing the chain case side snap ring, heating the case again and pushing the track shaft out of the case with the bearing on it. We had to cut the bearing off the shaft to get it off. The green loctite was like cement to get off the shaft and bearing. We had to get a new seal. IMO, do not use green loctite to lock the track shaft to the bearings. We decided to just use blue loctite on both sides and we had the BOP wedge to install in the caliper side. That green 609 Loctite, properly applied, is like welding. Just wanted to pass on my experience. Maybe if my friend hadn't cleaned the bearings and shafts so well it might have come apart. Not sure.

 

[ClutchMaster]

Hey Clutchmaster,
This weekend I had the pleasure of assisting with the changing of a track on 2017 Tcat. The owner had heard about the issues with the track shaft spinning in the brake side bearing and decided to prevent that by applying Locite 609 to both the chain case side bearing and the brake side bearing. He acetoned both the ID of the bearings and the track shaft (both sides) and upon assembly applies Loctite 609 to the bearing IDs. It was unbelievable how well that Loctite welded the two together. Fortunately, on the brake side we had the puller template Travis from BOP sent and we made the puller from 3/8" thick steel. We heated the shaft under the bearing and with the puller we were able to pull the caliper housing off. However, on the chain case side even with enough heat to ruin the seal, the shaft and bearing were locked together despite lots of pounding on the end of the track shaft. We ended up removing the chain case side snap ring, heating the case again and pushing the track shaft out of the case with the bearing on it. We had to cut the bearing off the shaft to get it off. The green loctite was like cement to get off the shaft and bearing. We had to get a new seal. IMO, do not use green loctite to lock the track shaft to the bearings. We decided to just use blue loctite on both sides and we had the BOP wedge to install in the caliper side. That green 609 Loctite, properly applied, is like welding. Just wanted to pass on my experience. Maybe if my friend hadn't cleaned the bearings and shafts so well it might have come apart. Not sure.

Yea the 609 and 638 are very strong, we use it on cast iron motor end bells that have gotten loose, it works very well. It’s very similar to a standard press fitted bearing after curing. Acetone has a similar effect to the Loctite primer if you apply the 609 immediately after the acetone. I usually don’t use acetone or primer, just a little break cleaner and let it sit for 15 min after cleaning before applying the 609, either way it dries pretty dam hard.
Heat should allow the shaft to come free, usually pretty easy. We’re his shafts worn at all? If you use 609 on a shaft that has even a little interference fit it will be extremely hard to remove even with heat. It’s really meant for shafts that are loose fitting. My shaft on the brake side had about .003” clearance, so I used the 638, even stronger than 609.
One thing to note is if the bearing fit wasn’t very loose to begin with, you need to heat the inner race, blowing the flame right into the balls of the bearing. If you heat the shaft, it’s probably not going to come apart unless you had a pretty loose fit to begin with.

I have never heard of a chaincase side bearing being an issue so I didn’t Loctite that side.

 

[Turboflash]

Yea the 609 and 638 are very strong, we use it on cast iron motor end bells that have gotten loose, it works very well. It’s very similar to a standard press fitted bearing after curing. Acetone has a similar effect to the Loctite primer if you apply the 609 immediately after the acetone. I usually don’t use acetone or primer, just a little break cleaner and let it sit for 15 min after cleaning before applying the 609, either way it dries pretty dam hard.
Heat should allow the shaft to come free, usually pretty easy. We’re his shafts worn at all? If you use 609 on a shaft that has even a little interference fit it will be extremely hard to remove even with heat. It’s really meant for shafts that are loose fitting. My shaft on the brake side had about .003” clearance, so I used the 638, even stronger than 609.
One thing to note is if the bearing fit wasn’t very loose to begin with, you need to heat the inner race, blowing the flame right into the balls of the bearing. If you heat the shaft, it’s probably not going to come apart unless you had a pretty loose fit to begin with.

I have never heard of a chaincase side bearing being an issue so I didn’t Loctite that side.

Heat applied generously right to where the bearing ID and shaft were. Got it plenty hot but that bearing retainer still would not break loose! Unreal. As I said, we had the puller from BOP for the brake side so after some heat we could pull the housing off.
On the chain case side, it was easy to see there had been some shaft rotation inside that bearing, not anything like brake side but still the shaft had spun in that bearing too.
This sled did get a new track shaft and bearings due to classic shaft spinning in brake side bearing. Shaft measured about .020" small and the bearing was about .006" worn. Used blue loctite on both sides with BOP wedge.