BOP bearing upgrade observations

[STAIN]

I decided that since I was putting a different track in my new 2022 LTX I would install the BOP ungraded bearing also. Sled has zero miles so I want to start fresh with the bearing.
While doing so I made a few observations.
The new bearing fits MUCH tighter than the original one. I can slide the original one off by hand. When spinning the stock bearing on the shaft, the inner race was sliding on the shaft. BOP bearing need to be tapped on with a dead blow hammer.
You will need to split the caliper to install. There seems to be no way around it as the new collar length wont let the disc/caliper assembly to be installed as one. At least I couldn't do it.
I was determined to use the inner seal and plate. I fiddle farted around getting a seal that would fit then noticed a few things.
1. As Travis mentioned the size of the new collar does really protect the inner seal from debris so the need for a seal is debatable. See below picture
2. IF you are determined to use a seal then it seems to me that a seal would cover the set screws. In my mind that means installing the caliper and bearing WITHOUT the plate to set the shaft position with the set screws. Removing the caliper bolts, then installing the plate, reinstalling the caliper bolts. I thought about putting a slot in the bolt holes for the plate to make install a little easier but didn't want my caliper bolts only hitting half the surface of the plate possibly causing more problems.
I might over thought that one, its probably the clip that sets the shaft position.
In the end, I ditched the plate.
I also removed the set screws and took a drill and just barely put a small divot in the shaft that the set screws could bite on. I used red loc-tite on the set screws.
In all this seems to be a pretty good solution to the shaft problems many of these have experienced.

 

[HABS 1]

I decided that since I was putting a different track in my new 2022 LTX I would install the BOP ungraded bearing also. Sled has zero miles so I want to start fresh with the bearing.
While doing so I made a few observations.
The new bearing fits MUCH tighter than the original one. I can slide the original one off by hand. When spinning the stock bearing on the shaft, the inner race was sliding on the shaft. BOP bearing need to be tapped on with a dead blow hammer.
You will need to split the caliper to install. There seems to be no way around it as the new collar length wont let the disc/caliper assembly to be installed as one. At least I couldn't do it.
I was determined to use the inner seal and plate. I fiddle farted around getting a seal that would fit then noticed a few things.
1. As Travis mentioned the size of the new collar does really protect the inner seal from debris so the need for a seal is debatable. See below picture
2. IF you are determined to use a seal then it seems to me that a seal would cover the set screws. In my mind that means installing the caliper and bearing WITHOUT the plate to set the shaft position with the set screws. Removing the caliper bolts, then installing the plate, reinstalling the caliper bolts. I thought about putting a slot in the bolt holes for the plate to make install a little easier but didn't want my caliper bolts only hitting half the surface of the plate possibly causing more problems.
I might over thought that one, its probably the clip that sets the shaft position.
In the end, I ditched the plate.
I also removed the set screws and took a drill and just barely put a small divot in the shaft that the set screws could bite on. I used red loc-tite on the set screws.
In all this seems to be a pretty good solution to the shaft problems many of these have experienced.
View attachment 169170

ya ur rite, that new bearing fits real good , damn near don't need set screws! i installed the plate with a larger seal and u r correct, to do that... u must install everything n tightned down tap everything into place, tightned caliper again! n set set screws, then remove 3 caliper bolts install plate with seal and re snugg, definitely a little "farting" around forsure ! u got be hell bent on usin it! but it will work and close up the inside nicely!

 

[canine170]

I decided that since I was putting a different track in my new 2022 LTX I would install the BOP ungraded bearing also. Sled has zero miles so I want to start fresh with the bearing.
While doing so I made a few observations.
The new bearing fits MUCH tighter than the original one. I can slide the original one off by hand. When spinning the stock bearing on the shaft, the inner race was sliding on the shaft. BOP bearing need to be tapped on with a dead blow hammer.
You will need to split the caliper to install. There seems to be no way around it as the new collar length wont let the disc/caliper assembly to be installed as one. At least I couldn't do it.
I was determined to use the inner seal and plate. I fiddle farted around getting a seal that would fit then noticed a few things.
1. As Travis mentioned the size of the new collar does really protect the inner seal from debris so the need for a seal is debatable. See below picture
2. IF you are determined to use a seal then it seems to me that a seal would cover the set screws. In my mind that means installing the caliper and bearing WITHOUT the plate to set the shaft position with the set screws. Removing the caliper bolts, then installing the plate, reinstalling the caliper bolts. I thought about putting a slot in the bolt holes for the plate to make install a little easier but didn't want my caliper bolts only hitting half the surface of the plate possibly causing more problems.
I might over thought that one, its probably the clip that sets the shaft position.
In the end, I ditched the plate.
I also removed the set screws and took a drill and just barely put a small divot in the shaft that the set screws could bite on. I used red loc-tite on the set screws.
In all this seems to be a pretty good solution to the shaft problems many of these have experienced.
View attachment 169170

How did you place the drill divots in the proper location on the shaft? I would be worried about nicking the threads...

 

[STAIN]

I just reached in with a drill and lightly dimpled the shaft. The side of the bit did not hurt the threads.
I have to do another one this weekend.

 

[canine170]

I just reached in with a drill and lightly dimpled the shaft. The side of the bit did not hurt the threads.
I have to do another one this weekend.

I gotta do mine too. Just picked up the bearing. Do you know of any videos floating around or a set of instructions? I saw the BOP video but Travis doesn't really show the step by step

 

[STAIN]

Not really. It is pretty strait forward.
Remove the secondary. Good time to check clutch alignment also.
Split the caliper.
Figure out a way to pull the shaft towards the front of the machine if you are alone, ratchet strap or whatever.
The hardest part may be bleeding the brake afterwards.

 

[canine170]

Not really. It is pretty strait forward.
Remove the secondary. Good time to check clutch alignment also.
Split the caliper.
Figure out a way to pull the shaft towards the front of the machine if you are alone, ratchet strap or whatever.
The hardest part may be bleeding the brake afterwards.

Thanks Stan

 

[Kenneth Rogers]

Not really. It is pretty strait forward.
Remove the secondary. Good time to check clutch alignment also.
Split the caliper.
Figure out a way to pull the shaft towards the front of the machine if you are alone, ratchet strap or whatever.
The hardest part may be bleeding the brake afterwards.

I was able to do both of mine without splitting the caliper. The biggest hassle for me was getting the old bearing out of the housing.

 

[canine170]

That's good news.. I was getting ready to order an aftermarket brake rotor but after hearing this, I'll hold off and see how I make out.

 

[STAIN]

I was able to do both of mine without splitting the caliper. The biggest hassle for me was getting the old bearing out of the housing.

Nice.
Did you remove the brake hose to do it?
I had to remove the brake hose anyway, so I just split the caliper also for easier installation. Either way, you need to bleed the system.

 

[Motorhead]

BOP is very innovative with his fixes, and the locking collar bearing is one more of his great inventions!
I split the caliper and yes, it takes a while to get that super light and sensitive brake back. Once rotor and caliper was off, I removed the clip and dust seal as described in directions. I put it back together, torqued the caliper bolts, used ratchet strap to insert clip on rotor shaft, and then had to bend the bracket/plate to be able to insert the set screws with a drop of loctite. A tap with a reverse end of my long heavy screw driver, and the bracket/plate bent back and I couldn't tell it had been bent prior to allow set screws through that bottom drip vent on that plate! Onward to the chain case maintenance afterwards! Really nice fix, Thanks Travis!!

 

[Kenneth Rogers]

Nice.
Did you remove the brake hose to do it?
I had to remove the brake hose anyway, so I just split the caliper also for easier installation. Either way, you need to bleed the system.

Nope. Hose stayed in place. I didn’t have to bleed it.

 

[canine170]

Did I need to drop the skid frame??? I took a bolt out and the slider axle pushed forward…. Damn

 

[STAIN]

Nope. Hose stayed in place. I didn’t have to bleed it.

Nice. I will try to do it that way next time. I couldn't seem to get it out the first time I did one and just split it every time after. I will try to take the assembly out as one next time.

Did I need to drop the skid frame??? I took a bolt out and the slider axle pushed forward…. Damn

No, but you will need to pull the axle forward when installing the new bearing. Loosening the track may help.

 

[canine170]

I was trying to instal the Precision EFI upgraded slider axle and then move on to the bearing. the track assembly pulled back. I have the sled up on a lift (track not supported)