Stub shaft moved while removing primary

[yamamarc]

Had to remove my primary to bring it in for warranty (cracked movable sheave).
The primary was seized on the stub shaft and took some time and effort to get if off. Once it popped the primary flew off and landed on some cushions I place to catch the clutch.

Upon inspection my stub shaft bearing moved in 1mm
At the beginning of last season it was properly seated and never blew any belts so I am pretty sure that is moved when the clutch popped off the taper .

 

[hellflyer]

That’s crazy! I was going to remove mine now I’m wondering if I should?

 

[yamamarc]

That’s crazy! I was going to remove mine now I’m wondering if I should?

Andy probably not a bad idea to remove your stub shaft and reseat the bearing with retaining compound!!!

 

[hellflyer]

Not a bad idea! As soon as the weather turns so I can get some time on my sled I may just do that along with a list of stuff I want to do still. I still need to get my ecu up to you soon. Work has been crazy this year.

 

[yamamarc]

Not a bad idea! As soon as the weather turns so I can get some time on my sled I may just do that along with a list of stuff I want to do still. I still need to get my ecu up to you soon. Work has been crazy this year.

Busy is a good thing it makes sledding season come faster
We definitely have to both slow down this winter and ride more!!!

 

[hellflyer]

That’s the plan this year! More riding

 

[Turboflash]

Had to remove my primary to bring it in for warranty (cracked movable sheave).
The primary was seized on the stub shaft and took some time and effort to get if off. Once it popped the primary flew off and landed on some cushions I place to catch the clutch.

Upon inspection my stub shaft bearing moved in 1mm
At the beginning of last season it was properly seated and never blew any belts so I am pretty sure that is moved when the clutch popped off the taper .





View attachment 156329

Seized primary on stub is a clear indication it had been moving/turning on stub. I think it's a good idea to lap primary to stub with lapping compound when you go to put a new clutch on, even a new one. That should get the two parts to have full contact with each other. Then, I use Cat torque spec of tightening clutch bolt to 51 in.lbs., start and run engine and drive system with belt on for at least 5 minutes. Then re-torque to 51 again. I've actually repeated this several times and could still feel clutch get tighter. I've even checked it after riding sled several hundred miles, and could still feel it go a little more.
Not sure about bearing moving 1 mm. Mine was a little more than that. I don't know if it was assembled that way or it moved. I just reseated it and assembled with green loctite.

 

[no1b4me]

Seized primary on stub is a clear indication it had been moving/turning on stub. I think it's a good idea to lap primary to stub with lapping compound when you go to put a new clutch on, even a new one. That should get the two parts to have full contact with each other. Then, I use Cat torque spec of tightening clutch bolt to 51 in.lbs., start and run engine and drive system with belt on for at least 5 minutes. Then re-torque to 51 again. I've actually repeated this several times and could still feel clutch get tighter. I've even checked it after riding sled several hundred miles, and could still feel it go a little more.
Not sure about bearing moving 1 mm. Mine was a little more than that. I don't know if it was assembled that way or it moved. I just reseated it and assembled with green loctite.

I believe you meant 51 ft/lbs and NOT 51 in/lbs... Typo...

 

[yamamarc]

Seized primary on stub is a clear indication it had been moving/turning on stub. I think it's a good idea to lap primary to stub with lapping compound when you go to put a new clutch on, even a new one. That should get the two parts to have full contact with each other. Then, I use Cat torque spec of tightening clutch bolt to 51 in.lbs., start and run engine and drive system with belt on for at least 5 minutes. Then re-torque to 51 again. I've actually repeated this several times and could still feel clutch get tighter. I've even checked it after riding sled several hundred miles, and could still feel it go a little more.
Not sure about bearing moving 1 mm. Mine was a little more than that. I don't know if it was assembled that way or it moved. I just reseated it and assembled with green loctite.

I don't see any physical sign of the clutch moving on the taper but ill definitely lap!!!
I reaseated the shaft last night with retaining compound. I put the housing in our weld rod oven for 20 minutes with shaft in freezer and she dropped right in (good call on that btw Turboflash worked mint)

 

[Turboflash]

I believe you meant 51 ft/lbs and NOT 51 in/lbs... Typo...

Yup!

 

[snowcaine]

Hey Marc, this is something that still bothers me from last season. I’ve purchased two stub shaft assemblies from Yamaha at different times and they each have that ~1.0mm gap. Is the gap supposed to be there? If not, why would Yam send me two identically gapped new assemblies??

Had to remove my primary to bring it in for warranty (cracked movable sheave).
The primary was seized on the stub shaft and took some time and effort to get if off. Once it popped the primary flew off and landed on some cushions I place to catch the clutch.

Upon inspection my stub shaft bearing moved in 1mm
At the beginning of last season it was properly seated and never blew any belts so I am pretty sure that is moved when the clutch popped off the taper .





View attachment 156329

 

[yamamarc]

Hey Marc, this is something that still bothers me from last season. I’ve purchased two stub shaft assemblies from Yamaha at different times and they each have that ~1.0mm gap. Is the gap supposed to be there? If not, why would Yam send me two identically gapped new assemblies??

the bearing should be seated tight in the housing!!! I pretty well check most sled that come through my shop and they are mostly tight up against the housing unless it was pushed in