NB-NYTRO
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I can't get my drain plug out.. Some grease monkey at the dealer must have cranked it on there some tight.. I only have a T-handle allen key wrench. I'm scared to wreck the bolt... Should I get an allen key socket for the end of ratchet? any help would be greatly appreciated. The oil tank is drained and ready to go. I just can't get the stoopid drain plug out on the bottom of the engine. 

Apply some Heat on that drain plug !!!
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I had this happen...it was so damn tight, that I had to wrecked the allen head. I took an oversized stad allen wrench, pounded it into place and put a small pipe on and she came loose....
You could apply some head to the surrounding area and then put ice on the bolt.
You could apply some head to the surrounding area and then put ice on the bolt.
4Fighter
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Sometimes you can lightly tap on the allen wrench first. But heat is probably the best bet.
NB-NYTRO
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thanks guys.
guyzoun
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nb-viper said:I can't get my drain plug out.. Some grease Monkey at the dealer must have cranked it on there some tight.. I only have a T-handle allen key wrench. I scared to wreck the bolt... Should I get an allen key socket for the end of ratchet? any help would be greatly appreciated. The oil tank is drained and ready to go. I just can't get the stoopid drain plug out on the bottom of the engine.![]()
I had the same problem with my previous sled Polaris xcr800. There was a rubber o-ring with the drain plug for the chaincase. The o-ring was sticking to the metal surface; I guess due to the chaincase heat.
With my brother's help, we flipped the sled on its side and worked that way which was more easier for precision on taking the drain plug out. I ended up using a torx bit with a good hammer punch because the allen bit was starting to chew up the bolt.
Bring it to your dealer or be patient and flip your sled on its side.
If you replace you drain plug with a new one, remember to always start by hand to screw it in to avoid misthreading...use a ratchet after.
A good set of hex keys for your 3/8 inch socket is a wonderful tool....far more powerful than the T-handles. I do recommend you get a set. Quality is everything...avoid the discount tools...they are too soft, will round off and ruin your bolts. As with most hand tools, I believe in Craftsman or better (if you don't have easy access to Snap-on/Mac/Matco venders).
Haven't had this problem yet personally...but if I did, I would have no qualms about getting a good tight fitting hex fully inserted, and giving the end of the wrench a swift crack with a hammer to snap it loose. Better yet is a quick hit with an impact wrench if you have one. But the hammer trick works well if you don't have an impact. A swift blow provides a little vibration to the bolt, making it more likely to succeed, and is far less likely to damage the head than long applied linear torque of a long bar/pulling hard.
Haven't had this problem yet personally...but if I did, I would have no qualms about getting a good tight fitting hex fully inserted, and giving the end of the wrench a swift crack with a hammer to snap it loose. Better yet is a quick hit with an impact wrench if you have one. But the hammer trick works well if you don't have an impact. A swift blow provides a little vibration to the bolt, making it more likely to succeed, and is far less likely to damage the head than long applied linear torque of a long bar/pulling hard.
snowbeast
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As with most of yamahas nut and bolts they are to soft,and round over or strip out,i had the same problem with mine on my 03 and still have with some of there lg. philips head screws,so to solve this problem i went out and bought a cheap impact set for screws,this is the kind you hit with a hammer,as it is spring loaded,and has two directions,cw and ccw direction,good luck and as someone stated you may need a little heat too..
BA APEX
Expert
mine was tight also. i used a wratchet with hex socket. i know i would not have gotten it with the allen wrench in the tool box.
Bigger Hammer
Extreme
Allen sockets work good, a good quality allen wrench and tapping the end with a hammer can work too, if the hex in the screw is in good shape. I have had good success with both Allen and Bhondus (sp?) brand wrenches, stay away from the cheap wrenches they will just round over and strip the head
APEX 21
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I had the same problem with my RX-1. I bought a Craftsman Allen socket set. I had no problems since. But that plug was so damn tight I thought it was gonna snap. The Apex was the same way.
NB-NYTRO
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I applied heat to it.. and then put an ice cube on it... and snap it came loose... I tore the skin off the side of my pinkie in the process.. I will need to invest into some metric hex sockets sometime soon. Yeah even the oil filter was freaking tight.. I think the dealer must have been some scared of having to buy someone a new motor.. I bought the Apex useds with 1,800miles on it and buddy only had the oil changed at the dealer. On another note.. The old oil was freaking dark... dark like tobys arse..
Bigger Hammer
Extreme
The oil filter on my Apex was unbelievably tight, my strap wrench actually started to deform it just before it broke loose
I had the same problem with mine. I ended up stripping the allen head out and had to take it to the dealer to get the screw removed. They replaced the screw with a "normal" hex head bolt to make it easier to remove next time (can now just use normal sockets/wrenches to remove). The dealer couldn't understand why Yamaha decided to use a allen head screw for this. 

NB-NYTRO
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
speedwolf said:I had the same problem with mine. I ended up stripping the allen head out and had to take it to the dealer to get the screw removed. They replaced the screw with a "normal" hex head bolt to make it easier to remove next time (can now just use normal sockets/wrenches to remove). The dealer couldn't understand why Yamaha decided to use a allen head screw for this.![]()
good idea.
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