• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

Stud pulled out of track

AttakSnow2

VIP Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2005
Messages
100
Location
Merrill, WI and White Pine, MI
Country
USA
Snowmobile
Yamaha Viper
I pulled 1 stud through my track. It ripped on 3 of the 4 sides of a square backer, so there is still the track there for me to fix. Can this be fixed?

I have 4500 miles on the track and it still looks pretty much new.

I do have a pic, but I cannot get it to upload. :o|
 

Personally...I would leave it as it and take a torch and singe any cord ends that are showing. Don't cut the loose rubber out.
 
you could have your track repaired. I pulled a stud though on my 04 warrior and i had it repaired without removing the track. Their are places in Wi. that repair tracks. Mine was repaired in 05 and i have 3500 miles on the sled and no problems .
 
if you are handy I can help you with my home fix...works awesome and is cheap...
 
hint...and upholstery needle and thread...and some patience and you stitch (sew) a star pattern tying back into the good webbing of the track...

essentially think of it as a ripped pair of blue jeans...as long as you have a strong thread and stitch right it works awesome...In an older machine Ive even put a stud back in and it stayed put!

on the harder rubber tracks Ive used a torch to heat the needle tip to pierce....on the softer a thimble seemed relatively easy...depending on how much is needing repair..
 
interesting, If its an outer belt, I always toss it, when its an inner, I usually remove and run harder. I have with old beaters, with torn windows, riveted cleats over window with long lived success.
thats why around here, I have been using ice rippers
 
use a non shouldered stud and install with an impact..never had a pull through on my machines yet!

only fix the stubborn others who insist on a woodys or similar stud
 
sj said:
hint...and upholstery needle and thread...and some patience and you stitch (sew) a star pattern tying back into the good webbing of the track...

essentially think of it as a ripped pair of blue jeans...as long as you have a strong thread and stitch right it works awesome...In an older machine Ive even put a stud back in and it stayed put!

on the harder rubber tracks Ive used a torch to heat the needle tip to pierce....on the softer a thimble seemed relatively easy...depending on how much is needing repair..

sj, thanks for the tip. I might try this. I have also thought about epoxy, what do you think about that along with your fix?

Attak
 
AttakSnow2 said:
sj said:
hint...and upholstery needle and thread...and some patience and you stitch (sew) a star pattern tying back into the good webbing of the track...

essentially think of it as a ripped pair of blue jeans...as long as you have a strong thread and stitch right it works awesome...In an older machine Ive even put a stud back in and it stayed put!

on the harder rubber tracks Ive used a torch to heat the needle tip to pierce....on the softer a thimble seemed relatively easy...depending on how much is needing repair..

sj, thanks for the tip. I might try this. I have also thought about epoxy, what do you think about that along with your fix?

Attak

I suppose if the epoxy is listed for rubber..but Id want it to remain flexible....I really think once you start stitching you will see adhesives arent necessary...if anything maybe black silicone adhesive...
 
My fix is a bit different and has held up for 2 seasons and 2400 miles so far. It is time consuming and certainly not a substitute for a track in need of replacement but a solid temporary fix for those in mid season. First step is to lightly torch (not burn) the hole that the pick pulled out of. Then get yourself a cheap utility tire with no tread and thinner rubber. Like the ones on the front of zero turn mowers available at Tractor Supply and other box stores. If the rubber is too thick you'll need to thin it down to a 1/8" or so. Next step is using a 2" to 2.5" hole saw drill into the flat surface of the tire removing the round disk. This part is a PITA and a bit smelly. The center bit will provide you a perfect hole for the new pick as well. Next step is to insert a new pick into your rubber disk and preferably you want the pick to be smaller in length. This is just to minimize the track strain on that area. Next you'll need Permatex #81158 BLK Silicone Sealant & Adhesive. Don't substitute for other sealants because this stays flexible and bonds down to -40 degrees. Apply a decent amount around your new pick and rubber patch. Push the new pick through the hole in the track and put your backer and nut on. Tighten until you feel the back of the pick start to settle into the track. Don't over tighten and sometimes you'll need to hold the top of the pick with vise grips and use a open end wrench on the stubborn ones. After the Permatex sets up and bonds to the track and rubber patch it is surprisingly really strong. A pro tip LOL rubber gloves are a must when working with the sealant/adhesive.
Lastly, like I said in the beginning this is not an alternative for a track in need of replacement but a solid mid season fix. I've had my new track in my garage waiting to put on but this fix is holding up past 2400 miles now and I had seven picks that I repaired.
 


Back
Top