rx1rob
Newbie
new vector with 96 studs in center of track only sled works awsome but put 250 miles on yesterday and the front plastic wheels in center of skid are no good the out side one's are the very best is any one else having this problem?does any one know if i can get rubber wheel for in there?
Flipper
Expert
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Can you be a little more specific about what is wrong?
Tork
TY 4 Stroke God
Early in the season, before you get a good deep base all those wheels have to do is hit some rocks and that can kill them.
Also who did the studs???
If you dont tighten them down enough they arent countersunk into the track and that could tear up your wheels.
Got to go to a Yammie dealer or check the vendor section and buy from Port. Buy an extra or 2 until you get it sorted out.
Also who did the studs???
If you dont tighten them down enough they arent countersunk into the track and that could tear up your wheels.
Got to go to a Yammie dealer or check the vendor section and buy from Port. Buy an extra or 2 until you get it sorted out.
rx1rob
Newbie
Flipper
the studs that run under these wheels are tearing pieces off the wheel but it is only happening to the plastic wheels not the rubber wheels. I will try to post a picture tomorrow!
Tork
i was in lots of snow. the studs were installed by a professional and they are in as flush as possible and there is not a mark on the rubber wheel that these same studs come in contact with!!!!!!!!!
ps:
YOU CAN NOT JUST BUY THE WHEEL YOU HAVE TO BUY THE ASSY BECAUSE THE BEARING IS BUILT IN THE WHEEL!!!!!!!!!
THOSE OF YOU STUDDING YOUR SLED WATCH THESE WHEELS CAREFULLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
the studs that run under these wheels are tearing pieces off the wheel but it is only happening to the plastic wheels not the rubber wheels. I will try to post a picture tomorrow!
Tork
i was in lots of snow. the studs were installed by a professional and they are in as flush as possible and there is not a mark on the rubber wheel that these same studs come in contact with!!!!!!!!!
ps:
YOU CAN NOT JUST BUY THE WHEEL YOU HAVE TO BUY THE ASSY BECAUSE THE BEARING IS BUILT IN THE WHEEL!!!!!!!!!
THOSE OF YOU STUDDING YOUR SLED WATCH THESE WHEELS CAREFULLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
Plastic is hard and rubber is flexible, so like driving a car on a paved road, it doesn't just grind the rubber off, though it would with a plastic wheel.
As for replacing the wheels... this is what I do:
The ones that are bearing-molded-in, I replace with standard 5.25" wheels, bearings, and clips. The shaft that the wheel goes over is larger for the plastic, so it needs to be ground down... either in a lathe, or do it the cheap way and mount a disk grinder in a vise, put the shaft in a drill, and bring it all together. Spacers are also needed since the plastic is wider than a real bearing. For the BACK 7" wheels, its easier since there is no plastic insert into the bearing, just get 7" wheels with bearings and clips.
If you look at some of the older Yamaha's for OEM wheels, you can get some decent looking rubber-over-aluminum wheels from an Exciter, but be careful, other sleds with same-looking wheels are different sizes - Enticer has slightly bigger wheels. With a little of Cubby's special attention, those 5-spoke aluminum wheels would look amazing.
As for replacing the wheels... this is what I do:
The ones that are bearing-molded-in, I replace with standard 5.25" wheels, bearings, and clips. The shaft that the wheel goes over is larger for the plastic, so it needs to be ground down... either in a lathe, or do it the cheap way and mount a disk grinder in a vise, put the shaft in a drill, and bring it all together. Spacers are also needed since the plastic is wider than a real bearing. For the BACK 7" wheels, its easier since there is no plastic insert into the bearing, just get 7" wheels with bearings and clips.
If you look at some of the older Yamaha's for OEM wheels, you can get some decent looking rubber-over-aluminum wheels from an Exciter, but be careful, other sleds with same-looking wheels are different sizes - Enticer has slightly bigger wheels. With a little of Cubby's special attention, those 5-spoke aluminum wheels would look amazing.
rx1rob
Newbie
LAZY
thought of that too but these plastic wheels are 130 mm the same as the rubber wheels on the rx1 like yours but the bearings in the plastic wheels are 6005 rs in a rubber wheel they are 6205 rs which mean they are the same size in side but a 6205 is a wider brg and this plastic wheel has an aluminim collar that fits in the wheel brg and butts up against the shock mount pivot! so i need a 130mm rubber wheel that takes a 6005 brg in order to work ......
thought of that too but these plastic wheels are 130 mm the same as the rubber wheels on the rx1 like yours but the bearings in the plastic wheels are 6005 rs in a rubber wheel they are 6205 rs which mean they are the same size in side but a 6205 is a wider brg and this plastic wheel has an aluminim collar that fits in the wheel brg and butts up against the shock mount pivot! so i need a 130mm rubber wheel that takes a 6005 brg in order to work ......
Flipper
Expert
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rx1rob,
I have 250 kms on my Vector now. I just went out into the garage and inspected my wheels.
There are no pieces missing from them and they look to be in good shape, as good as the outside plastic ones and I have only studded the center belt.
Other than what Tork suggests, I can't think of what else would cause this problem
I have 250 kms on my Vector now. I just went out into the garage and inspected my wheels.
There are no pieces missing from them and they look to be in good shape, as good as the outside plastic ones and I have only studded the center belt.
Other than what Tork suggests, I can't think of what else would cause this problem
