RX-1snow
Extreme
Has anyone tried the studs that screw directly into the tip of the lug? I have a 1.25 inch lug. Just wondering if there might be trouble with this and if not, are they very effective? Thanks.
Blue Me
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Studs
Either do them all or not at all. THey are more for stopping than anything on hardpack. I had some in an old SX. They did come out over time and you could here them shooting under the seat in the tunnel :shock: . I was fortunate to not hit a heat exchanger though. I don't like them.
Either do them all or not at all. THey are more for stopping than anything on hardpack. I had some in an old SX. They did come out over time and you could here them shooting under the seat in the tunnel :shock: . I was fortunate to not hit a heat exchanger though. I don't like them.
RX-1snow
Extreme
Thanks for the info yamablue.
Otis RX
Expert
They belong in ATV tires!!
Keep them off your sled unless it's a mini z. They stress the lugs to premature failure.
OTIS
Keep them off your sled unless it's a mini z. They stress the lugs to premature failure.
OTIS
RX-1snow
Extreme
My friend has a 04 sabercat 600 and his lugs have small dimples in the tips of the lugs. His dealer told him they were for studs and he showed him the studs, they come in a bag of 250 for around $40.00 can.
Mighty
TY 4 Stroke God
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- 22 Mach Z
23 Sidewinder SRX
Nobody will want to ride behind you :shock:
i have 250 of the bergstroms carbide tip screws on my 03 shorty. I put them on with about 300 miles on my sled last year and it was a night and day difference when i hit the ice and groomed trails. I now have almost 4,000 miles on my sled and not one of them has ripped or fallen out and i have not lost one lug (screwed or unscrewed) on the POS stock track i still have on. When i installed them i put super glue on each one then drilled them in with just a 3/8 drill bit. It took me a couple of hours and i didnt have to remove the track to do it. I also have no damage to my heat shield.
I planned on replacing the track when it wore out but the problem is it still looks new. I rode 3500 miles in VT, Maine, Quebec and CT last year and these screws were very effective on the groomed trails and ice that i mainly ride. It is in fresh snow i wish i had a rip saw because the screws dont help you and the stock 03 track really sucks in fresh ungroomed snow.
I planned on replacing the track when it wore out but the problem is it still looks new. I rode 3500 miles in VT, Maine, Quebec and CT last year and these screws were very effective on the groomed trails and ice that i mainly ride. It is in fresh snow i wish i had a rip saw because the screws dont help you and the stock 03 track really sucks in fresh ungroomed snow.
Personally I would not use them if you gave them to me.
vmaxjohn
Pro
I would use them in a conical lug track, and in the Ripsaw. If you're an aggressive rider though, you'll either need 400-500 of the screws, or just stud it.
I posted last week about an idea I had. On the Ripsaw, I think there's enough material on the lugs to countersink them 1/8". This would keep the head from catching things, and the carbide doing all the work scratching at the ice.
Yamablue, what track did you have them in? The older Yokohama tracks were simply weak to begin with, adding the extra pressure of the Trail Grabbers would be going backwards, IMO.
Quite a few Camo tracks and the Ripsaw definately could handle the proper amount of the Trail Grabbers, they're reinforced in the lugs, unlike a Yoko. Again, if you're looking for ski lifting hook up, or grudge racing your buddies on the lake, just stud. Trail Grabbers are meant for safety on crappy trails.
My buddy just picked up an'01 SRX with the stock Yoko track and a bunch of TG's. After 2000 or so canadian and UP miles, there was only one missing and one damaged lug. I think that's saying something. Since it's a SRX Yoko track, it's stronger than th other Yoko's of the same design, but it's demonstrative of how well they can work.
My next track will be a ripsaw, I'm going to keep the tunnel protectors and countersink the TG's into the lugs. I'll shoot for around 400 TG's, on my lil5. More if I get a bigger sled. Did you know it takes 1000 TG's to come close to the weight of 96 studs? Hello top speed!
There is a little story about a Tcat with a bunch of these things in on www.bergstromskegs.com Pretty interesting. I talked to a guy last year with a ZR800 and he loved them. That sled came with a conical lug track.
I posted last week about an idea I had. On the Ripsaw, I think there's enough material on the lugs to countersink them 1/8". This would keep the head from catching things, and the carbide doing all the work scratching at the ice.
Yamablue, what track did you have them in? The older Yokohama tracks were simply weak to begin with, adding the extra pressure of the Trail Grabbers would be going backwards, IMO.
Quite a few Camo tracks and the Ripsaw definately could handle the proper amount of the Trail Grabbers, they're reinforced in the lugs, unlike a Yoko. Again, if you're looking for ski lifting hook up, or grudge racing your buddies on the lake, just stud. Trail Grabbers are meant for safety on crappy trails.
My buddy just picked up an'01 SRX with the stock Yoko track and a bunch of TG's. After 2000 or so canadian and UP miles, there was only one missing and one damaged lug. I think that's saying something. Since it's a SRX Yoko track, it's stronger than th other Yoko's of the same design, but it's demonstrative of how well they can work.
My next track will be a ripsaw, I'm going to keep the tunnel protectors and countersink the TG's into the lugs. I'll shoot for around 400 TG's, on my lil5. More if I get a bigger sled. Did you know it takes 1000 TG's to come close to the weight of 96 studs? Hello top speed!
There is a little story about a Tcat with a bunch of these things in on www.bergstromskegs.com Pretty interesting. I talked to a guy last year with a ZR800 and he loved them. That sled came with a conical lug track.
Waterboy
Extreme
Used thes on a 2002 Polaris 700 Edge M-10 that I still have. They peeled the lugs off the track. Went to remove remaining screws to try and fudge a warranty claim but there was only 6 left.
Do have to admit that I exceeded the recommended track minimum thickness. Polaris 1.00 lug is actually just over .900.
Probable had 4000 miles on track.
I still might try on the Warrior ripsaw which is full 1.25 just for the weight saving feature. I would keep a very close eye on track this time.
Studding a 1.25 with 1/4 stickout is pushimg the limits on track loading as well as clearance.
Do have to admit that I exceeded the recommended track minimum thickness. Polaris 1.00 lug is actually just over .900.
Probable had 4000 miles on track.
I still might try on the Warrior ripsaw which is full 1.25 just for the weight saving feature. I would keep a very close eye on track this time.
Studding a 1.25 with 1/4 stickout is pushimg the limits on track loading as well as clearance.
BROKEN ARROW
Newbie
I HAVE USED THE BERGSTROM TRAIL GRABBERS ON MY 1 1/4 TRACK WITH GOOD RESULTS..YOU HAVE TO MAKE SURE YOU USE ENOUGH,,,ABOUT 250 TO 300 SHOULD BE GOOD FOR A STOCK RX-1. LIKE REDEYE23 SAID ,,USE SUPER GLUE ON THE THREADS WHEN INSTALLING THEM.THE TRAIL GRABBERS ARE NOT FOR EVERYBODY,, IT DEPENDS ON THE TYPE OF RIDING YOU DO.SOME RIDERS REQUIRE REGULAR STUDS FOR THE KIND OF RIDING/RACING THEY DO,, .I WAS SKEPTICAL LAST YEAR BUT AFTER LOOKING AT THE BERGSTROM WEB-SITE AND TALKING TO THE OWNER ON THE PHONE I WAS CONVINCED..THE OWNER,,I THINK HIS NAME WAS SCOTT, WAS VERY HELPFULL,,HE TALKED TO ME FOR OVER A HALF HOUR,,I ENDED UP BUYING A PAIR OF SKAGS BUT HAVEN'T HAD A CHANCE TO USE THEM YET, THEY ARE SUPPOSED TO LAST MUCH LONGER THAN THE SABER SKAGS THAT I HAVE BEEN USING..CHECK OUT BERGSTROM WEB SITE ..IT IS FULL OF ALL KINDS OF GOOD INFORMATION
vmaxjohn
Pro
Waterboy, I'm curious about which ones you used. There were 2 companies selling a screw in lug stud with a carbide tip, like a traditional stud. The first time I looked at them, I knew they'd be nothing but problems since they would penetrate the ice, and make way too much traction! If you used those, I would not be suprised at your results.
I just want to be sure we're talking apples to apples.
I just want to be sure we're talking apples to apples.
Waterboy
Extreme
Expert
Not sure of the make. Purchased from Sled Pro Distribution here in Canada. He probable re-packaged them under his lable. There was only one length available at that time and I know that the penetration was into the track cords on the Polaris OEM track. This was probably part of the problem. It may have restricted the lug flex. They did look to be of good quality.
I ride in good trail conditions in mainly in North Western Quebec so they are well suited to the small amount of hard pack I see.
I have never ridden without studs prior to this years warrior and as yet I have not decided which way I will go.
Not sure of the make. Purchased from Sled Pro Distribution here in Canada. He probable re-packaged them under his lable. There was only one length available at that time and I know that the penetration was into the track cords on the Polaris OEM track. This was probably part of the problem. It may have restricted the lug flex. They did look to be of good quality.
I ride in good trail conditions in mainly in North Western Quebec so they are well suited to the small amount of hard pack I see.
I have never ridden without studs prior to this years warrior and as yet I have not decided which way I will go.
vmaxjohn
Pro
Waterboy, it sounds like another brand. To my knowledge, Bergstrom sells only under his name and ships where ever you want.
Describe what the heads looked like, might help. Thanks.
Describe what the heads looked like, might help. Thanks.
Waterboy
Extreme
Expert
Heat teeated hex head screw with a carbide insert that was silver soldered to head. Stick-out was 3/8". If I remember correctly the nut-driver I used was 5/16".
The screw thread lead was not a standard metal screw pitch but courser much like a specialty plastic pitch screw.
Heat teeated hex head screw with a carbide insert that was silver soldered to head. Stick-out was 3/8". If I remember correctly the nut-driver I used was 5/16".
The screw thread lead was not a standard metal screw pitch but courser much like a specialty plastic pitch screw.
