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Suspension installation

fourload

TY 4 Stroke Master
Joined
Nov 25, 2005
Messages
1,154
Location
UPSTATE,NY
New slides,bearings,front spring and a refresh and revalve for my shocks. Thanks cannondale for your quick, professional reasonably priced service. What a PITA the suspension is to install! Comes out in 5 min took me 2 hours to get it back in. The front arm is a bitch to get hooked in while fighting the track. Is flipping it on its side the answer?
 

Get the back end as high off the ground as possible. Use some old hyfax to lay across your track, keeps your suspension above track lugs. Put front of skid in first and work the back in with some lifting of the top of the track, make sure to pull track as far back as possible. Lower the rear a little but now you can put the forks in position without to much hassle. Use a strap to compress the rear shock and lower tunnel into position, once your close you may have to tighten strap a little more to line up attachment holes. With a buddy helping you can do it this way in about 5 minutes.
 
New slides,bearings,front spring and a refresh and revalve for my shocks. Thanks cannondale for your quick, professional reasonably priced service. What a PITA the suspension is to install! Comes out in 5 min took me 2 hours to get it back in. The front arm is a bitch to get hooked in while fighting the track. Is flipping it on its side the answer?
I compress the front part of suspension with a strap and then it goes in so much easier.
 
I compress the front part of suspension with a strap and then it goes in so much easier.
Good tip...thanks! Never thought about doing that.
 
For some reason my track is super tight and the install is always brutal.

I have found that if you swing the rear of the track on an angle, and take just ‘one’ side of the skid’s front arm - and get it hooked on the cross shaft. Do one side then repeat for other .

Most of the time I lay on the ground with my head to the front, I hook my foot in the back of the track by the rear rollers to stretch it. It’s like a leg press. Lol

Btw- My friends 137 goes together so much easier

Compressing the front arm with a strap or plastic tie can help. Leave the torsion springs disconnected. It’s easier to line up the rear bolt holes with the scissor flopping around.
Ms
 
I have found that if you swing the rear of the track on an angle, and take just ‘one’ side of the skid’s front arm - and get it hooked on the cross shaft. Do one side then The other .
Take these silver stops out , lower tunnel to normal ride height suspension goes right in with springs in place no struggle at all.
 

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We are thinking about mounting a small winch on the shop ceiling for lifting and lower the rear of the sled. For a single guy it would make this job a lot easier. We also have 4 heavy duty D rings mounted on the ceiling for hanging sled. Makes working so much easier without lifts in the way and being able to sit on a shop stool is very nice.
 
New slides,bearings,front spring and a refresh and revalve for my shocks. Thanks cannondale for your quick, professional reasonably priced service. What a PITA the suspension is to install! Comes out in 5 min took me 2 hours to get it back in. The front arm is a bitch to get hooked in while fighting the track. Is flipping it on its side the answer?
YES, flipping on its side is easier for fast skid in and out. BUT, sometimes, like a track swap, laying on its side is not gonna work. Different procedures require different solutions.
 
Winch it from ceiling and collapse the front arm with a strap and it's easy
 
Having the skis on dollies also helps to clear the front arm. Then one side at a time hooked on bar. I collapse the rear arm sometimes. Getting the perfect height of rear is critical. A track stand won’t cut it. Need something finer like ceiling winch. Admit that it just sometimes sucks. Swear it gets easier then harder sometimes.
 
I have found one of the easiest ways is to have the rear of the sled suspended with a chain fall, or something similar. Then roll a floor jack under the track. With the floor jack there, the torsion springs can be unhooked and swing down so you are not fighting them. With the springs unhooked the rear can collapse.
Also, I usually back the track tensioners off, slide the rear axle forward, and tighten so it stays forward. Some models of sleds don't need the rear axle loosened and still go in relatively easy.
 


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