DaveTess
Newbie
As we are "Newbies" we need a little help in Suspension explanations.
As some of you know we went on our maiden voyage this past weekend and had a blast.
I have followed the threads here about suspension settings and read and reread the manual but I'm still not quite clear.
What I want to do is take out some of the "Tippiness" so as I think I understand I should tighten up the two front shock springs to stiffen them up? I think.
To soften up the rear I need to relax the shock in the track a bit? I think.
What we basically need to do is reduce the Tippines and soften the ride at the rear.
Any help would be great. We're not idiots just not sure what to tighten and what to relax to get our desired ride.
Thanks in adavance
As some of you know we went on our maiden voyage this past weekend and had a blast.
I have followed the threads here about suspension settings and read and reread the manual but I'm still not quite clear.
What I want to do is take out some of the "Tippiness" so as I think I understand I should tighten up the two front shock springs to stiffen them up? I think.
To soften up the rear I need to relax the shock in the track a bit? I think.
What we basically need to do is reduce the Tippines and soften the ride at the rear.
Any help would be great. We're not idiots just not sure what to tighten and what to relax to get our desired ride.
Thanks in adavance
Roger
Expert
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2007
- Messages
- 323
- Age
- 60
- Location
- Osgoode Ontario Canada
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2012 RS Venture GT (power steering doesn't work when real cold)
2006 Indy 500
PostPosted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 10:31 am Post subject: Reply with quote Edit/Delete this post
I know several people with Ventures, and others with short track Yamaha's. They all had to do the same.
Yamaha has the sleds set up for 1000 pound drivers. There is no weight on the skis, it's all on the front of the track. Every time you attempt to make a turn, at any speed, the sled wants to fall over.
The front shock in the rear suspension needs to be backed off, loosened, lengthened, or however you want to put it.
Get the sled up on a lift, if you have one, so there is no weight on the rear suspension. Loosen the double nuts at the bottom of the front shock in the rear suspension. I just used a hammer and screwdriver to loosen the bottom nut. You'll be able to back the lower nut off about as far as you can. by hand. Now grab the spring around this shock, with your hands, and turn it until the two nuts meet. Tighten the nuts with the hammer and screwdriver.
You will now be able to drive the sled. It will have weight on the skis and it won't pivot on the front of the track.
Replace your runners right away. Save them for when you sell the sled. I run "Deuce" carbides. They seem to last longer than "Dooleys", and stones don't seem to get caught in the runners.
Enjoy
I know several people with Ventures, and others with short track Yamaha's. They all had to do the same.
Yamaha has the sleds set up for 1000 pound drivers. There is no weight on the skis, it's all on the front of the track. Every time you attempt to make a turn, at any speed, the sled wants to fall over.
The front shock in the rear suspension needs to be backed off, loosened, lengthened, or however you want to put it.
Get the sled up on a lift, if you have one, so there is no weight on the rear suspension. Loosen the double nuts at the bottom of the front shock in the rear suspension. I just used a hammer and screwdriver to loosen the bottom nut. You'll be able to back the lower nut off about as far as you can. by hand. Now grab the spring around this shock, with your hands, and turn it until the two nuts meet. Tighten the nuts with the hammer and screwdriver.
You will now be able to drive the sled. It will have weight on the skis and it won't pivot on the front of the track.
Replace your runners right away. Save them for when you sell the sled. I run "Deuce" carbides. They seem to last longer than "Dooleys", and stones don't seem to get caught in the runners.
Enjoy
Muskoka Man
Expert
Dave
X2 on Rogers Advice , I did the same , loosen the shock and I put sno-trackers on my venture , New sled all together ,very happy with it now , were riding Kearney on Fri
X2 on Rogers Advice , I did the same , loosen the shock and I put sno-trackers on my venture , New sled all together ,very happy with it now , were riding Kearney on Fri
mooseflyer
Expert
Hi Dave,
First, a disclaimer - I'm sure there are some differences between your 2011 and my 2006, but I had the same issue and did some research on the problem recently. Here's what I found (and did):
1. Skis all the way to soft (min preload)
2. Limiter straps on the tighter (of two) holes
3. Front track shock all the way to soft (min preload)
4. 2 up block to 2 up position (since thats the way we ride)
5. Black plastic suspension block on medium
6. Transfer rods to min transfer (nuts all the way backed out)
Based on my research, I decided to do all these adjustments at once, and will now use them as a "baseline" to tweak things further. I don't know if your model year has the same adjustments available or not. I just rode my first weekend with the above setup and it's much improved. It's still tippy taking corners at speed, but for going over snowbanks on a diagonal, side-hilling, etc. it's WAY better.
The next adjustment I'd like to try is to tighten the ski shocks up a bit, to possibly help with the tippiness taking corners at speed. I will also shim my skis to try to help with the heavy steering (which will probably only get worse when I increase the ski shock setting).
Best of luck.
First, a disclaimer - I'm sure there are some differences between your 2011 and my 2006, but I had the same issue and did some research on the problem recently. Here's what I found (and did):
1. Skis all the way to soft (min preload)
2. Limiter straps on the tighter (of two) holes
3. Front track shock all the way to soft (min preload)
4. 2 up block to 2 up position (since thats the way we ride)
5. Black plastic suspension block on medium
6. Transfer rods to min transfer (nuts all the way backed out)
Based on my research, I decided to do all these adjustments at once, and will now use them as a "baseline" to tweak things further. I don't know if your model year has the same adjustments available or not. I just rode my first weekend with the above setup and it's much improved. It's still tippy taking corners at speed, but for going over snowbanks on a diagonal, side-hilling, etc. it's WAY better.
The next adjustment I'd like to try is to tighten the ski shocks up a bit, to possibly help with the tippiness taking corners at speed. I will also shim my skis to try to help with the heavy steering (which will probably only get worse when I increase the ski shock setting).
Best of luck.
Roger
Expert
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2007
- Messages
- 323
- Age
- 60
- Location
- Osgoode Ontario Canada
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2012 RS Venture GT (power steering doesn't work when real cold)
2006 Indy 500
Mooseflyer. You're still tipping because you backed off on the ski shocks. Mine are 3/4 fully loaded, and it isn't very tippy at all in the corners.
mooseflyer
Expert
Thanks Roger. How's your steering effort? I figured with the combination of front skid shock to soft, limiter strap pulled up, AND skis to a high setting, steering would be dam near impossible (although I still plan to try it).
Hence the dilemma: If you increase the preload on the front skid shock, in theory it reduces the ski pressure making it easier to steer but also makes it tippy and vice versa? If you increase the loading on the skis, it makes it less tippy but puts more weight on the skis (making it harder to steer)?
My steering effort is hard already, even with skis to full soft. I just installed Simmons Gen 2 to try to combat darting, increase floatation, and reduce steering effort. Result: darting is reduced, floatation is better, steering effort is still very high.
I can drive my Polaris touring machine on the trail with one hand - the Yamaha, no way.
Hence the dilemma: If you increase the preload on the front skid shock, in theory it reduces the ski pressure making it easier to steer but also makes it tippy and vice versa? If you increase the loading on the skis, it makes it less tippy but puts more weight on the skis (making it harder to steer)?
My steering effort is hard already, even with skis to full soft. I just installed Simmons Gen 2 to try to combat darting, increase floatation, and reduce steering effort. Result: darting is reduced, floatation is better, steering effort is still very high.
I can drive my Polaris touring machine on the trail with one hand - the Yamaha, no way.
SAB1
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
- Joined
- Mar 1, 2011
- Messages
- 545
- Location
- Tuftonboro NH
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2017 Sidewinder LTX SE
2010 Vector GT
2006 Apex
Great info guys. I have an '06 I got last year at end of season and expect I will need to do the same. Hopefully I will get to ride it! Still nothing on the ground in Mass/NH.
Roger
Expert
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2007
- Messages
- 323
- Age
- 60
- Location
- Osgoode Ontario Canada
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2012 RS Venture GT (power steering doesn't work when real cold)
2006 Indy 500
I have never found steering heavy on any sled, including 6 Polaris' I've owned before Yamaha. I have Deuce and have used Duelly runners, which helps a lot, no darting.
I miss the warmth of a Polaris.
I miss the warmth of a Polaris.
DaveTess
Newbie
Hey Guys just a follow up to your suggestions.
I backed of the front shock on the track, not quite to the ends of the threads as suggested, but never the less some what. Changed the rear black knobs to "S" on both sides and the whits blox were already in the two up position.
Just got back from a 2 hour ride, about 55km's. Tippyness almost gone.
Tess says ride on the back much smoother. Still wants to dart a little so I will need to address the carbides.
Suggestions other than what's above. Perhaps Carbides and Skis?
Still haven't adjusted the Ski shocks yet.
I backed of the front shock on the track, not quite to the ends of the threads as suggested, but never the less some what. Changed the rear black knobs to "S" on both sides and the whits blox were already in the two up position.
Just got back from a 2 hour ride, about 55km's. Tippyness almost gone.
Tess says ride on the back much smoother. Still wants to dart a little so I will need to address the carbides.
Suggestions other than what's above. Perhaps Carbides and Skis?
Still haven't adjusted the Ski shocks yet.
Roger
Expert
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2007
- Messages
- 323
- Age
- 60
- Location
- Osgoode Ontario Canada
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2012 RS Venture GT (power steering doesn't work when real cold)
2006 Indy 500
See my post above?
Deuce or dually carbides will help a lot!
Deuce or dually carbides will help a lot!
Muskoka Man
Expert
Im with the sno- trackers myself , darting is 100% gone and the steering is a little lighter somehow
Similar threads
-
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.