slast
Extreme
After riding for a couple of years, and tinkering with the suspension settings, I think I've nailed down the front end settings that suit my style and limit the inside ski lift. Here are my settings:
- Widened ski stance buy putting both spindle bushings on inside.
- reversed ski bushing to help with darting
- Left shock spring at factory, but set clickers to 1 or 2 clicks from the middle. A nice balance between body roll and too stiff causing immediate inside ski lift
That said, I have been unable to figure out the rear suspension settings. I have set the springs to soft setting, and loosened the front track shock 1/2 inch, and tightened the limiter up one hole. It came from factory at the last hole. That said, this sled still bucks on medium stutter like bumps. Is there anything one can do further to adjust this without revalving the front shock? I don't want the downtime involved in sending my shock away, since there is no one near where I live that does this.
- Widened ski stance buy putting both spindle bushings on inside.
- reversed ski bushing to help with darting
- Left shock spring at factory, but set clickers to 1 or 2 clicks from the middle. A nice balance between body roll and too stiff causing immediate inside ski lift
That said, I have been unable to figure out the rear suspension settings. I have set the springs to soft setting, and loosened the front track shock 1/2 inch, and tightened the limiter up one hole. It came from factory at the last hole. That said, this sled still bucks on medium stutter like bumps. Is there anything one can do further to adjust this without revalving the front shock? I don't want the downtime involved in sending my shock away, since there is no one near where I live that does this.
I would concentrate on the rear shock.Biggest gains to be made there in my opinion.
slast
Extreme
Cannondale,
What can be done to the rear shock? Mine is an aluminum shock body with a piggyback reservoir. I don't see any adjustment settings on it though. Are you suggesting that I get it revalved?
What can be done to the rear shock? Mine is an aluminum shock body with a piggyback reservoir. I don't see any adjustment settings on it though. Are you suggesting that I get it revalved?
Yes.Best $ I have spent on my sled by far.
iwant1
Extreme
did the bushings make a big diffeence?
iwant1
Extreme
i was riding the other night on hard packed trails and the ski lift was brutal. When i got into softer snow it was greatly reduced until I hit a hard corner at above average speeds.
slast
Extreme
Bushings give you an extra 1.5 inches of ski width. In the powder you lose floatation, but on hard pack, it helps with ski lift a little bit. Every little bit helps in my opinion. The other thing to pay attention to , is the stiffness setting of the front end. Too stiff and you have almost immediate ski lift. Too soft and the front end feels wishy washy and there is too much body roll. The settings I mention are a nice balance.
Other than that, this sled is not for the passive rider. You have to work this sled to drive it effectively. I didn't like it at first but now I enjoy the challenge. Given that it is lighter than the big machines, I can lose some of the really good local riders around home in the bush and twisties, but they will lose me in the open fields and straight stretches.
Other than that, this sled is not for the passive rider. You have to work this sled to drive it effectively. I didn't like it at first but now I enjoy the challenge. Given that it is lighter than the big machines, I can lose some of the really good local riders around home in the bush and twisties, but they will lose me in the open fields and straight stretches.
BombaPolaYama
TY 4 Stroke Master
slast said:
Do you mean on the inside or outside of the spindle? By putting the spacers/bushings on the inside of the spindle you will narrow the ski stance.
slast
Extreme
my bad. I meant outside. Thanks for pointing that out.
