suspension Setup for XTX

[rock doc]

I bought a 2011 Nytro XTX and have had it out once in loose/soft snow conditions. The temperatures have been brutal so trail side tuning was and continues to be out of the question. I would appreciate some setup guidance based on the following:

Rider:

• 180 Ibs
  39 years old
  experienced and fairly aggressive
  Like a bit of ski lift as long as it is predictable. Prefer to carry the skis over shutter bump

Sled:

• 2011 XTX
  stock skis with snow trackers
  Trail studded 1 1/4" ripsaw
  Sled is basically stock

We typically do 30% off trail. I'd prefer to have a base setup for stiff snow conditions/trail riding and separate setup for off trail/deep snow. I'm sure this topic has been covered a million times, but the suspension is so far out that I really don't know where to start. Should I just go back to the factory settings and start from there? I think I'm pretty close to the typical rider that Yamaha used for its baseline setup.

Even with a sub-par setup, this machine sure was a blast to ride. I am just a little concerned that I could get myself in trouble if I don't get the handling settled down a bit. Coming off an Apex I am pretty smooth on the throttle, but the nytro seems very abrupt and does not give much warning when she is not happy.

 

[herndonp]

Put a OFT relocator on. That will make her easier to handle. If you check FAQ section you will find a bunch of XTX suggested settings.

Pete

 

[old man winter]

180 plus gear or 180 buck naked? I'm about 180 dressed to ride and I have the front preload set as soft as possible without risking the shocks coming apart. The center shock preload tightened up about 3/4 inch from stock. Transfer rods set almost to max transfer. Torsion springs set to soft. Don't mess with the limiter straps unless you have after market suspension mods or are a heavier rider ( I didn't say fat bastard Austin powers my fave movie).Start from there on front shocks with compression and rebound at full soft and rear compression at full soft. Then increase your settings on the shocks to your conditions and ride style. Leave the front shock settings as soft as you can live with without bottoming too much. The back shock can be adjusted to whatever on compression, softer for chatter bumps harder for big bumps. Too hard bucks you off. I ride on ungroomed pounded trails or off trail for the most part and my front is set between soft and stock. My back is set to the same because we have a lot of chatter bumps. This setup can be changed on the trail just on the shock knobs in seconds. Try it and see what you think. Forgot to mention the only pertaining mod I've made is tuner skis. My sled rails and has the balls to pull the skis enough to pop over objects when needed.

 

[rock doc]

Thank! Sounds like we ride the same way Old Man. I ride enduros in the summer and I catch myself trying to loft the front over the studder bumps. I am 180 with gear. I'd like to upgrade the skis, but trying to curb my spending a bit. I'm guessing a set of tuners with carbide would set me back $400 cdn. I know it is a great upgrade though so I may splurge if I can find a deal somewhere.

I am having a tough time breaking the locking collar loose on the front shocks. It is on a sled lift so there is not much force on the springs. Is there a knack to adjusting these things or should I just accept the fact that I am going to have skinned knuckles? Sprayed them with some fluid film and will try again tomorrow.

Thanks again!!

 

[rock doc]

I managed to free the locking collars using a few love taps with a rubber mallet. I am always nervous tapping aluminum, it can be pretty unforgiving. Looks like they have not been adjusted from the stock setting.

 

[SteelerJim]

Use a screwdriver and a hammer. Gently

 

[old man winter]

Tuner skis are $300 with carbides at the dealer. I also forgot to add that I have my spacers set on the outside of the spindle in the ski mount to gain a little width. If you are adjusting your front shock preload on a stand that's good. Skis must be off the ground so that you know there is tension on the spring.

 

[upei93]

The best upgrade I did on my XTX was the Star Suspension, now the back end works like it should.
If you are going off trail I would look at the Yamaha mountain ski with snow trackers (floatation and it turns) and a new track. (second best upgrade) Third would be the OFT relocator helps with turning radius ect. I know you don't want to dump a lot of money into her but everything in my signature made mine better. Good Luck!

 

[mp5]

Hey Roc Doc....did yhe Fluid Film work on the front collars? If not....slightly tap em with a drift and hammer.

I had my Tuners on for $286 cnd tax in. They were with a 4 and a 0....worked hreat ip in Moose Valley and floated well too

 

[mp5]

Hey Roc Doc....did yhe Fluid Film work on the front collars? If not....slightly tap em with a drift and hammer.

I had my Tuners on for $286 cnd tax in. They were with a 4 and a 0....worked hreat ip in Moose Valley and floated well too

 

[rock doc]

hey mp5 - I saw the pics. Looks like I missed a great trip. Got any more trips planned?

Sure wish it would stop raining.

The fluid film worked. Perhaps I'll swing by the dealer and pick up the tuners. How were they in the POW?