LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
Oh, for being fully clipped, you really have only two options; ripsaw 9006 and crossover 9003. I would still go with the 9873 though, punching and clipping is not that big of a deal when the track is still off the sled. Just stick a board in it and use a big chisel and hammer.
hmmmm
I guess this will be one to ponder over the next couple weeks.
I guess this will be one to ponder over the next couple weeks.
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
Why is it that you need a fully clipped track?
I'm going to be running some pretty big boost
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
Can you elaborate? The only advantage I know of for fully clipped track is that you can run external drive sprockets, which are totally pointless with an expertX suspension.
ViperTurboPete
TY 4 Stroke Master
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I would go with the longer track...way more fun. I have had 136's and it is too short IMO. I currently run 151 on my RX1M with a 2 inch, and 141 on the Mountain Max 700 with the 2 inch and mountains don't exist. I have a 1.25 Predator on my SRX and it hooks up nice and good in loose snow.
In your case with turbo, I would look into a 1.25 Predator, much better than ripsaw in loose snow and you will still do good on radar.
In your case with turbo, I would look into a 1.25 Predator, much better than ripsaw in loose snow and you will still do good on radar.
alaskanbowtie
Expert
>>>RX1MPete said:I would go with the longer track...way more fun. I have had 136's and it is too short IMO. I currently run 151 on my RX1M with a 2 inch, and 141 on the Mountain Max 700 with the 2 inch and mountains don't exist. I have a 1.25 Predator on my SRX and it hooks up nice and good in loose snow.
In your case with turbo, I would look into a 1.25 Predator, much better than ripsaw in loose snow and you will still do good on radar.
purhaps you need to look at some different mountains....LOL .
Swiss Sledder
TY 4 Stroke God
Prior posts moved to this thread www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=28731 on gearing and the clutches. Let's stay on topic regarding his question about converting Attak to a 144" track.
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Did an extension to 151" using Hartman Inc components and it worked flawless all winter!
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=20172&highlight=
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=20172&highlight=
moronsk
Newbie
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Matt---how did u lengthen ur sled, by lengthening stock rails or changing out entire skid?
hey guys, sorry forgot all about this thread.
With my 121-->136 conversion I dropped in an actual 136 mono shock from an Attak...you do not want to use extensions on these skids!
I'm putting in an Expert X 144 this go around
With my 121-->136 conversion I dropped in an actual 136 mono shock from an Attak...you do not want to use extensions on these skids!
I'm putting in an Expert X 144 this go around
pro116
Lifetime Member
MattZx6,I'm wondering why you say you can't use extension's on those skids when ahtermarket places are making them and other peopl are using them with no problem's?Please don't take this the wrong way I'm just wondering what your reason is behind it.Thank's
1CrazySledder
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pro116 said:MattZx6,I'm wondering why you say you can't use extension's on those skids when ahtermarket places are making them and other peopl are using them with no problem's?Please don't take this the wrong way I'm just wondering what your reason is behind it.Thank's
something about the track tightening to much through it's travel, I think. I heard this somewhere before.
1CS
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
It has to do with the radius of the track not matching the radius of the rear arm. This causes it to tighten very significantly on compression. To deal with this problem, the upper rear wheels must be moved back the same amount as the length added to the rails, but this cannot be done because the rear arm will hit the new cross shaft on full suspension compression.
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