Thinking about studding my track, good idea?

Daranello said:
jeffT said:
280chopper said:
running 96, studs add wieght and rob hp so need to find a balance also rob top end
LETS RACE.............. I have 144 studs so i have probably a ton of extra weight. we could race where ever you would like. powder, trail, hard pack, ice.......etc etc. after i beat you WITHOUT A DOUBT in 3 out of 4 (powder is iffy) then we can figure out how much "robbed hp" i had. Then we can zip through the trails and as i peel away from you in the corners, i will stop and back up and help pull your sled down off the tree ur up against after you blew the corner (cuz you couldnt brake/slow down) trying to keep up to me.
ADDED WEIGHT AND SLOW???????? are you serious? :exc:
Is that like saying if i put wider tires on my sports car would be silly cuz they weigh more even tho i get more traction? OMG LMFAO!!!! :))

Its called ROTATION MASS.... so lets say you added 3-4lbs....physics says your actually adding 21 to 28lbs...and definatly on top end the more studs you run the slower you'll be (on top end only)

And yes wider tires on a car will slow you down on top end also its called drag and at 150mph theres lots of drag and tires are one of the worst....

this is exacly why I went with 114 studs with Plastic backer on my XTX...

P.S. I've hit 111mph on speedo (106mph GPS) stock

I agree with rotational mass, but your 21-28 is too high. After working through these formulas, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moment_of_inertia I get 12.8629 lbs based on 3.5 lbs.
:tg:

Have you had issues with the "plastic" backers?
 
Hey I never did good in science but I know the extra weight is an issue....

The plastic backers are from Top Gun made from Dupont Polemers and there amazing so far...nothing brokern or bent and I've riden hard on less than idel conditions
 
Daranello said:
Hey I never did good in science but I know the extra weight is an issue....

The plastic backers are from Top Gun made from Dupont Polemers and there amazing so far...nothing brokern or bent and I've riden hard on less than idel conditions

Can you guess what your stud set up weighs?
 
I guess it boils down to:
1. Will you be going over 100mph's enough to worry about losing 2mph?
2. Will you be accelerating in a holeshot and out of a corner.......... more than going WFO?
3. Do you enjoy being able to stop at least twice as good as a non studded sled?
Those are the 3 questions you need to ask yourself.

If u are worried about losing a couple ponies....... do a simple mod. gaining 2-3 hp isnt really that difficult.

Lastly....... next time you are out........ go wide open and dont look at the speedo........ then stud your sled and go wide open without looking at the speedo............. Then tell me how much slower you "think" you were going. Also..... tell me how much FASTER you got there ;)
 
Exacly its allk in what you want....I spend allot ot time at WOT...so I need every MPH availble..holeshot is not importants to me as top end
 

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I mostly accelerate corner to corner, with occasional WOT. At the end of the day, I know I don't have a top end sled and I make that known to people I ride with. Although I do say that I feel I can hang with anyone in short runs. Thus my desire to want to hook up out of the hole.

Yes, I want the ability to stop better, and yes I want better control in icy corners.

As for mods, I have Ulmers Stage 1 clutch kit on the way. I plan on K&N filters and High Flow exhaust pipe for next year, so I think I have the couple extra HP and MPH on top covered.

Sounds like I have made up my mind to Stud. Now, the what kind and how many is the questions. A friend with extensive Yamaha experience has an 08 Apex with 96 Roetin Hornets down the middle. He is very happy with braking, control, and hooking up, so I'm leaning in that same direction.
 
I have had studs on almost every single sled ive owned. Im not a pro nor do i claim to be but one thing is for certain......... if you don't put enough studs in you will for certain be tearing out studs and or bending them. I have only 300 miles on my studs and am already seeing some bending (these have a 2 yr. warranty against bendage and breakage so i will send in the bent ones and get new ones when the snow melts.). I have the extreme max 1.4" carbides. 144 placed on the inside and outside of the track. I'm wondering if i may not have enough studs? The amount of torque these machines produce has to really be putting a huge amount of stress on the track and studs.
By the way, im very impressed with how 144 of them hok up.
 
If you need WOT and dont stud your track because you need more top end YOU bought the wrong sled trade it in for a apex.
 
Why not swap the track out for a an Ice Ripper XT? It's pre studded and there's no worry about the studs tearing a big hole in your track and taking out your heat exchanger, plus no maintenance for them either.

I can't see myself going back to traditional studding.
 
I would think adding tall nuts would help cure the bending and alleviate the pull outs. Would it not? I am thinking of doing 96 1.325 woody's megabites with tall nuts.
 
192, woddy 1375 megabites with medium nuts. 4 studs per track lug inside and out I use a modified woody,s template with blue locktite on all my sleds and buddys sleds never had any problems...If you pull a couple sleds out in front out of the hole a little top end loss will not matter, they have a hard time catching up when you are already out in front.
 
After talking with a few people running 96 Reotin Hornets down the middle, who have yet to see one bend or break, that was my choice.
 

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Good idea, stopping is a +++ with studs. I just bought a new sled (09 nytro) and will be putting on studs before I ride
 
I wanted studs but did not really want the extra weight and slower speeds. I fitted 70 odd cannot remember the exact number but used a template i am more than happy. Plus i used plast back plates again for weight reduction.
 


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