welterracer
TY 4 Stroke God
I have heard a great deal of debate for the issue of ski lift..
The warrior has strait rate springs already..
If when i ride it and it had ski lift should i lower the sled or tighten the front springs??
I would think you would want to lower the sled..but the springs to seem kind of soggy when you ride..
The warrior has strait rate springs already..
If when i ride it and it had ski lift should i lower the sled or tighten the front springs??
I would think you would want to lower the sled..but the springs to seem kind of soggy when you ride..
03RX1
Newbie
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2003
- Messages
- 13
Both Yamaha and Ohlins suspension manuals suggest less spring pre-load to reduce ski lift. They seem to agree with your theory that lowering the sled will bring down the center of gravity thereby reducing the "tippy" feeling. I have found some success with this technique.
The alternate theory would be more spring pre-load to reduce the "leaning" feeling on a 'soft' outside spring while cornering. I tried this as well, but felt it made the ride worse with no improvement in ski lift.
Good luck.
The alternate theory would be more spring pre-load to reduce the "leaning" feeling on a 'soft' outside spring while cornering. I tried this as well, but felt it made the ride worse with no improvement in ski lift.
Good luck.
vmaxjohn
Pro
This is a great topic. There's good info to back up both extremes.
If you look at a street car, the best way to keep the body roll to a minimum is to stiffen the spring/damper package, and beef up the sway bars to help tune the handling.
Street cars don't jump.
If you look at a PRO truck, they use very low ride height and lots of wheel travel to go around the corners quickly, and boy do they!
I've tried both ways, but it's kinda hard to just crank the spring rate on a given sled and have some empirical evidence. I can say that my rather softly sprung 500's liked the front springs on their softest setting for razor sharp handling and very little ski lift.
I did one ride with the front ski shocks cranked up a little, and found it less forgiving, resulting in more ski lift. The shock couldn't keep up with the spring, and if you hit a bump in mid corner, up it would pop.
Anyway, I'm a fan of low slung/soft sprung and relying on the sway bar to keep that inside ski down. This works for twisty trails, bumpy trails, and general riding. Tuning for one condition can lead to alot of tuning though!
I'm now going with a stiff shock package on my lil5. If it's too tippy with too high of ride height, I may just disconnect the sway bar and see what happens
If you look at a street car, the best way to keep the body roll to a minimum is to stiffen the spring/damper package, and beef up the sway bars to help tune the handling.
Street cars don't jump.
If you look at a PRO truck, they use very low ride height and lots of wheel travel to go around the corners quickly, and boy do they!
I've tried both ways, but it's kinda hard to just crank the spring rate on a given sled and have some empirical evidence. I can say that my rather softly sprung 500's liked the front springs on their softest setting for razor sharp handling and very little ski lift.
I did one ride with the front ski shocks cranked up a little, and found it less forgiving, resulting in more ski lift. The shock couldn't keep up with the spring, and if you hit a bump in mid corner, up it would pop.
Anyway, I'm a fan of low slung/soft sprung and relying on the sway bar to keep that inside ski down. This works for twisty trails, bumpy trails, and general riding. Tuning for one condition can lead to alot of tuning though!
I'm now going with a stiff shock package on my lil5. If it's too tippy with too high of ride height, I may just disconnect the sway bar and see what happens
deshkae
Pro
What I'm thinking is the 1.9 straight rate springs and the small links and the 10 mm stock swaybar with the springs preloaded. Has anyone tried this.
DESHKAE, i think you might be on to something. i have 900 miles on my 04 RX1 and so far am not happy with the handling when riding aggressive.i have tried almost every option with the stock components and when i make one situation better something else gets worse.i will be trying something completly different today,if it does not work i will be trying the 10mm bar from my03. last year i was able to adj. the suspension to were i really liked it, so far this year i have not been able to.last season i tried the 11mm bar and took it out , the reason is because it made the sled feel very simaler to the way this sled does.
Ted Jannetty
TY 4 Stroke God
We need to isolate the problem, is it tippy on or off the gas around a corner.
If on the gas you need to suck up the limiter straps and soften the center shock preload.
Because when your on the throttle the center shock extends to the max set by the limiter straps and it lifts the front of the sled making in teeder on the track and outside ski, therefore lifting the inside ski.
If off the throttle, you need to increase center shock preload and increase front shock preload.
Because too much weight transfer is occuring compressing the center shock and outside ski too far causing the sway bar to lift the inside ski.
If on the gas you need to suck up the limiter straps and soften the center shock preload.
Because when your on the throttle the center shock extends to the max set by the limiter straps and it lifts the front of the sled making in teeder on the track and outside ski, therefore lifting the inside ski.
If off the throttle, you need to increase center shock preload and increase front shock preload.
Because too much weight transfer is occuring compressing the center shock and outside ski too far causing the sway bar to lift the inside ski.
TED, well said. here is what I found to work very well for ME after over 1,000 miles spent trying to get this sled to handle the way I like. i wiegh 180lbs ready to ride. i want a sled to have a decent ride but more importantly handle the best i can get it too. front springs stock had 17 threads showing, i softened to 15 threads. center shock stock, manual says it's at min., i softened 2threads (not sure at this time how many threads are showing) took up on limiter straps, 1 1/2" of thread showing. FRA medium and #6 on cam adj. control rods #4. this is the way my sled is set up and i am very happy with it. this has probably been the most frustrating suspension set up i have ever done, but i am very happy with the ride AND the handling of this sled now.
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