rowdy_1851
Veteran
Anyone know the best way to check the toe on the phazer?
spike337
TY 4 Stroke Master
I've had a lot of handling problems because of toe settings, and them magically changing. Last time i threaded a nut half on the carbide studs (fwd and rear) and threaded a short bolt into that, then they were both equal front and back so it was easier for me to measure by myself.
I'm about 1/8" out now, and probably should've went more, but thinking slop will be at least another 1/8"?
I measured from the actual plastic part of the ski also just to see, and with C&As, it is the same measurement as the carbides.
I'm about 1/8" out now, and probably should've went more, but thinking slop will be at least another 1/8"?
I measured from the actual plastic part of the ski also just to see, and with C&As, it is the same measurement as the carbides.
rowdy_1851
Veteran
I was wondering how you could get them perfectly straight before toeing them out just to know which is toed the wrong way. I was thinking mabey running strings up the track as a straight edge then getting one side perfectly straight to the track then going across to the other side, getting no toe at all on them and once i got an even measurement front to back i would work on the toe out. But i was looking for an easier way than this.
Ricketts
Pro
I used to run a 2x4 along the track and adjust my skiis to that, but its hard to find a straight 2x4 anymore...
spike337
TY 4 Stroke Master
Eyeball it. Look at the front "Oh my God, it's a foot out!" Look from the back "holy crap, it's a foot in!"
You're right though, it'd be nice to take an extra half hour and make a jig. Good idea, next project.
You're right though, it'd be nice to take an extra half hour and make a jig. Good idea, next project.
Thing is the toe changes bigtime through out the suspension travel.Alot of bumpsteer so just dont touch the sled while adjusting!It would be nice though to have a set hieght to set toe at to optimize it.Also dont forget if you set toe and find your bars crooked you can adjust that at the link just below the right blue cover and not affect toe at all.
spike337
TY 4 Stroke Master
^^^Ah ha! What link? My bars are heading West, lol. I didn't feel like doing everything over and the geometry and headache that comes with it. It'd be great if there was one spot i could tweak my bars just a little bit.
I've squated my sled and measured toe, and lifted it up, with zero, to very little change. Looks like a lot of 'scrub' though.
I've squated my sled and measured toe, and lifted it up, with zero, to very little change. Looks like a lot of 'scrub' though.
Odd nothing is different.I took the springs off so it was from one end to the other.Was awhile ago but I believe it was well over 2 inches of bumpsteer.I will check again.
Here is where you would adjust.Obviously time to do it is when airbox is out:
Here is where you would adjust.Obviously time to do it is when airbox is out:
Attachments
spike337
TY 4 Stroke Master
Is that the one you were thinking about flipping over to speed up pulling the front end? I think mine was the way you were thinking about going? Almost sure, and i never had that apart. By the way, i can see your two battery cables down by the oil res where mine wore through.
I didn't go near as far as you did with measuring toe changes throughout travel, just a push down and a pull up. The side to side scrub is obvious though.
I didn't go near as far as you did with measuring toe changes throughout travel, just a push down and a pull up. The side to side scrub is obvious though.
Yes its the same one.I did check the cables and they are good.Definitly a wear point though.
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