jedwards89
Expert
- Joined
- Sep 8, 2008
- Messages
- 235
- Location
- Tarrytown NY
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Yamaha Viper RTX SE
Just heard that lowering the rear limiter strap one hole and lowereing the pressure in the front shocks is what is needed to take ski pressure away without compromising the handeling. I have curves on my sled not sure what the carbides are on them but it turns way too hard. This tip is coming from a reliable source that produces some great suspension upgrades. I am about 3 hours away from my sled and my wife and I are expecting our second any day. Not going to be on my new SE for a while. Seems like a pretty quick fix. A little confused about the suggestion but hey, It is pretty quick. I do not beleive I will be back on my sled till late February so I will be interested in hearing if someone feeedback from people that try it.
arteeex
TY 4 Stroke Master
"...my wife and I are expecting our second any day" And yet you're worried about improving the handling on your sled. Now this is commitment to the sport.
As a mechanism guy, I've pondered the purpose of the rear strap and the best that I can come up with is it's there to prevent the linkage from inverting into another circuit.
As a secondary function, shortening the rear strap will lower suspension and reduce its travel. I certainly don't see this as a means of reducing ski pressure, this is a function of the center spring.
As a mechanism guy, I've pondered the purpose of the rear strap and the best that I can come up with is it's there to prevent the linkage from inverting into another circuit.
As a secondary function, shortening the rear strap will lower suspension and reduce its travel. I certainly don't see this as a means of reducing ski pressure, this is a function of the center spring.
jedwards89
Expert
- Joined
- Sep 8, 2008
- Messages
- 235
- Location
- Tarrytown NY
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Yamaha Viper RTX SE
My thought as well, I was under the impression that the rear strap was used to link the rear skid together. If there is one thing that I do not want to do is take away travel. I can deal with the tough steering. 200 miles and I was ready for more even if my shoulders wanted to fall off. YEs, I am a die hard fan and am finding it very difficult to go at least another month before getting back out. I live 4.5 hours from the hill and 3 hours from any type or riding so I am trying to deal with it by asking questions to make my new toy the best for me.
Kråkan
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Just get alittle more tension on the center spring.. Do not adjust to much at ounce since it makes a lot of difference.. Maybee 2 turns and then try it.. The problem is that it might get the front shock alittle to stiff but go as much as you can handle without getting your as killed by the ride... If you do not get all the way with the center spring then you can make the final adjustment with the Floats up front...
You can do the front shocks first but then you will loose alittle ride hight so id go with the center spring first.
You can do the front shocks first but then you will loose alittle ride hight so id go with the center spring first.
Kraze3
Veteran
Just wanted to know. Which way are you turning the centre shock to reduce ski pressure?
Kråkan
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
tighten the spring, make it stiffer.
gems4sale
Pro
No body is talking about the two weight transfer rods that are adjustable. I would think this is where to start? Thats what they are there for. If you lower the two nuts it will handle far better when cornering without adjusting the straps or the front shock on your skid. The more preload you put on your front skid shock the more weight transfer it will produce. Too much weight transfer is what makes this think feel terrable in the corners. This sled is a power on over steer style which is like an ATV. You steer around corners with your throttle more than the front ski's. Its a blast once your sled is set up properly. Not set up properly and you'll lift the skis and plow straight.
Blue 4's Rule
Expert
He has an SE and I'm not 100% certain but I don't think those sleds have the two rear transfer rods like we do on the XTX's! Perhaps somebody else could enlighten!
LJ 452
TY 4 Stroke God
No transfer rods on the S.E. only on the XTX's. As for shortening the rear, it may help reduce the front load because it could shift the weight to the rear of the sled. Imagine a line with three points, start, middle, and end. Now raise the front line the middle and end must support the front or the front will tip slightly. Then raise the middle, obviously the front and end now must take up the load that the middle distributed (the amount of dispersion would depend on the C.G. of course. Now raise the rear, the weight would either be shared by the front and middle, or it could shift (rock) toward the back. Since the engine isn't really over the ski's on these sleds, with the rider on the seat the weight is much further back the the center line of the sled. To me this could cause a rocking effect and actually decrease front ski pressure. Sort of a continuous wheele, with out the skis popping off the ground.
Just a thought, maybe there's absolutely nothing to it.
Just a thought, maybe there's absolutely nothing to it.
jedwards89
Expert
- Joined
- Sep 8, 2008
- Messages
- 235
- Location
- Tarrytown NY
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Yamaha Viper RTX SE
This is what has been told to me and again I will not be on the sled for at least a month. New Baby) If anyone tries it please let me know.
Similar threads
- Replies
- 6
- Views
- 1K
- Replies
- 97
- Views
- 13K
- Replies
- 58
- Views
- 5K
-
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.