Tools to make studding easier

[snowdust]

I am in the process of studding my sled and was looking for ways to make it a little easier. Normally I just use a cordless drill and a track drill tool. (http://www.cbperformanceparts.com/studs-and-backers/woodys-track-drill/)
A typical cordless drill has an RPM of 1,800-2,000. I decided to buy an air drill which spins at 22,000 rpm to cut through the cords quicker. I'll never go back to a normal drill. It heats up almost instantly and probably cuts the time to drill by 50-75%.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017W2PINC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My next problem was the quiet lugs. I know some say the stud will just suck down, but I didn't like the way the would sit once installed. I found a cutter with a replaceable center guide that works perfect to cut the quiet lug down. I made a piece to center the cutter the same size as the stud hole and then ground off the teeth that protrude higher than the main cutter blades as they won't be needed in this case. (It is made for wood) It works perfect to cut the lugs flush with the track so I can stud like normal. (Just be careful not to cut too deep)

https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Indust...TF8&qid=1492606469&sr=8-36&keywords=1"+cutter

Anyway... Just thought it could help others when they go to stud. Let me know if you have any questions!

 

[snowdust]

Pic of modified tool:

 

[yamadoo]

Thanks that is helpful
I will be studding this fall and will use air die grinder , may use a sharpened old stud to cut the silencer bump- another post these changes should be helpful

 

[KnappAttack]

I countersunk the studs into the quiet lugs on my 2012 pro-cross and it would chunk out every wheel I ever put on it that was rubber coated.

I'll never countersink them again with the issues I had doing that. You would think it would make it easier on the wheel countersinking into the quiet lug, but it was the complete opposite for me. I shelled out the wheels every single time I took it out. My buddy that installed the same studs into his and did not countersink them never blew even one wheel! We both bought them together with serial numbers just a few #'s apart. Just a bit of caution for anyone thinking of countersinking. YMMV.

 

[Joe ltx-le]

Great work.
The quiet lugs have not given me any issues with wheels or noise on three of these sleds yet. 144 down the middle on all of them.
I like your idea though. Aslong as your smart and like you said don't go to far or you have one big hole.

 

[fatchance]

I think if you just take your time and re-torque 3 times waiting a day in between to allow the rubber to compress the quiet lugs flatten out considerably.

 

[yamadoo]

I countersunk the studs into the quiet lugs on my 2012 pro-cross and it would chunk out every wheel I ever put on it that was rubber coated.

I'll never countersink them again with the issues I had doing that. You would think it would make it easier on the wheel countersinking into the quiet lug, but it was the complete opposite for me. I shelled out the wheels every single time I took it out. My buddy that installed the same studs into his and did not countersink them never blew even one wheel! We both bought them together with serial numbers just a few #'s apart. Just a bit of caution for anyone thinking of countersinking. YMMV.

Good to know thanks

My experience 'No issues with thousands of miles of NOT counter sunk' as well. Yamadoo

 

[jeff_yam]

I am in the process of studding my sled and was looking for ways to make it a little easier. Normally I just use a cordless drill and a track drill tool. (http://www.cbperformanceparts.com/studs-and-backers/woodys-track-drill/)
A typical cordless drill has an RPM of 1,800-2,000. I decided to buy an air drill which spins at 22,000 rpm to cut through the cords quicker. I'll never go back to a normal drill. It heats up almost instantly and probably cuts the time to drill by 50-75%.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017W2PINC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My next problem was the quiet lugs. I know some say the stud will just suck down, but I didn't like the way the would sit once installed. I found a cutter with a replaceable center guide that works perfect to cut the quiet lug down. I made a piece to center the cutter the same size as the stud hole and then ground off the teeth that protrude higher than the main cutter blades as they won't be needed in this case. (It is made for wood) It works perfect to cut the lugs flush with the track so I can stud like normal. (Just be careful not to cut too deep)

https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-Tools-3046004-3-Cutter/dp/B001VND6SI/ref=sr_1_36?ie=UTF8&qid=1492606469&sr=8-36&keywords=1"+cutter

Anyway... Just thought it could help others when they go to stud. Let me know if you have any questions!

Finally how did your idlers wheels last by using this method?

 

[SAB1]

Couple beers and some patience

 

[snowdust]

My wheels have been good. No issues in ~3k miles.

 

[cannondale27]

Only time I ever started chunking wheels is when I bent a bunch of studs and backers or had loose ones.

 

[Turboflash]

X2 Cannondale. I spent allot of time countersinking to get the depth of the countersink just right so the stud head is flush with the track. Countersink varies by where it is on track. Must have worked because all my wheels, stud heads, and track look perfect. Not sure why countersinking is bad but I see others have not had very good results at all. Hmm?

 

[jeff_yam]

My wheels have been good. No issues in ~3k miles.

Good to know! Thanks!

 

[cannondale27]

X2 Cannondale. I spent allot of time countersinking to get the depth of the countersink just right so the stud head is flush with the track. Countersink varies by where it is on track. Must have worked because all my wheels, stud heads, and track look perfect. Not sure why countersinking is bad but I see others have not had very good results at all. Hmm?

Only thing I can think of is the wheel will be going over the lip created by countersinking. If thats the case could just shave the whole silent bump off but I highly doubt that the issue is Countersink. Bet those who have trouble have bent studs or loose ones.

 

[Turboflash]

Good to know! Thanks!

And, track runs nice and quiet on stand. Sounds about same as with no studs.