rev them up
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2018 Sidewinder, TD Max Spool 17, CAI, TD 3 Inch Stock Muffler Mod, 3Bar, BOV
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No it is a 2ply stud, they were in my 2ply storm track.Are you using a stud for a single ply track on a two ply? Shorter shoulder on stud for single ply could be pulled deeper into a two ply creating more of a bulge around stud base. Just a thought…
Simplespeed
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
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If your track is not defective, the only thing that would cause a large mushroom like your picture is at time of punching the holes the track cutting tool had walked either in or out making the either too close or two far away from each other and as you tighten them they are bunching up the track material to alignment with plate holes.. This simply means you holes did not align properly with the actual plate layout.. Double need to be installed in the precise location.
REDLINE 1
Expert
This is what I was thinking. On doubles I always drill one side put the stud through then put a modified backer plate on with a drilled out hole on the other side side so I can use it as a guide to drill the second hole through the track. You just have to sacrifice one backer plate to make the guide. Drill out one of the holes to the OD of yr track drillIf your track is not defective, the only thing that would cause a large mushroom like your picture is at time of punching the holes the track cutting tool had walked either in or out making the either too close or two far away from each other and as you tighten them they are bunching up the track material to alignment with plate holes.. This simply means you holes did not align properly with the actual plate layout.. Double need to be installed in the precise location.
rev them up
Pro
- Joined
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- 173
- Age
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- Prince Edward Island, Canada
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- Snowmobile
- 2011 Nytro XTX, Hurricane Exhaust, K&N, Pcv, Autotune, Pod300, Star Suspension,
2018 Sidewinder, TD Max Spool 17, CAI, TD 3 Inch Stock Muffler Mod, 3Bar, BOV
- LOCATION
- Prince Edward Island, Canada
I have a template backer, drill one side put stud thru backer then drill second hole thru the backer, remove backer and put non template backer on. Did this for every stud, all studs fit snug in track and ligned up perfectly with backers.
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TY 4 Stroke Junkie
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- 2006 Apex , 2017 Sidewinder LTX -LE
Looking at your pictures it appears as you say and is correct …So you just ruled out any installation errors which leaves defective track.I have a template backer, drill one side put stud thru backer then drill second hole thru the backer, remove backer and put non template backer on. Did this for every stud, all studs fit snug in track and ligned up perfectly with backers.
KnappAttack
24X ISR World Drag Racing Champion
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2017 Sidewinder LTX-LE
OMG, there is nothing at all wrong with the F'n track. They bulge a bit with studs, get over it. Go run it and quit worrying about it.
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TY 4 Stroke Junkie
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- 2006 Apex , 2017 Sidewinder LTX -LE
Your right about nothing wrong with the track after I took a look at the stud he was using.. N-Vader studs have ridges cast into the head of the stud which will grab the rubber as the stud is tighten and naturally make a larger bulge due to stud design.. If you compare woody’s there head is basically smooth and less bulge created when installed. I use angled doubles and hard to find a bulge at all. He just asked for suggestions and he never said he was not going to run it.. Also Woodys shoulder looks to be lower and more squeeze . Hope you guys get some good snow soon as it makes for happier times for everyone….OMG, there is nothing at all wrong with the F'n track. They bulge a bit with studs, get over it. Go run it and quit worrying about it.
PAvector
Lifetime Member
Rubber doesn’t compress, it displaces based on the amount of force applied. I think that’s what the bulge is.
I don’t think you need more than 14 ft pounds torque to keep the stud tight.
I don’t think you need more than 14 ft pounds torque to keep the stud tight.
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TY 4 Stroke Junkie
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- 2006 Apex , 2017 Sidewinder LTX -LE
It does both and if your installing studs on a track design that has the silence bumps you will try to tighten so the studs lay as flat as possible. This is probably overtight.. If you remove the bumps you can tighten until stud bottoms at stud shoulder ( more normal torque ) and yes would have less bulge… I did notice when installing angle doubles you need to tighten the hell out of them to get them flat so your wheels run flat over the studs in line with wheels..Rubber doesn’t compress, it displaces based on the amount of force applied. I think that’s what the bulge is.
I don’t think you need more than 14 ft pounds torque to keep the stud tight.
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