track swamp

[darv]

i'm thinking about buying a 137 sidewinder and want to put a corbra track under it dealer say it will take 8hours is this true. has anyone done one and how long did it take you to do it.

 

[jetpilot785]

That is not far off. Takes me about 10-12 hours to change out all 4 bearings in the drive train and that includes removing the engine braces, upper support and removing the case. Switching tracks is about 3/4 of that as you still have to remove oil reservoir and chain case cover, all case internals, split the brake caliper, remove rotor etc. Then when going back together, you have to replace engine oil, bleed brake system etc. Now that I’ve done it a bunch, I probably could just swap tracks in 5-6 hours so the 8 hour estimate isn’t too far off.

 

[DMCTurbo]

I did it in about 6hrs over a couple days taking my time, it was my first time also, surely a dealer should have it done in 3-4hrs I would think.

 

[Never Satisfied]

No need to split the brake caliper or drain engine oil. 3-4 hour job at the most. You can pull the skid in 5 minutes, drop all 4 bolts and lift the rear and it comes out. These Cat skids are the easiest to put in and out I have ever seen, the 141 is better than the 137 but either way really easy. This must be a Yamaha dealer that is unfamiliar with these.

 

[Yamatario]

I am having my dealer swap out the track on mine for a Storm and he had said about 3-4 hours.

 

[NOS-PRO]

No need to split the brake caliper or drain engine oil. 3-4 hour job at the most. You can pull the skid in 5 minutes, drop all 4 bolts and lift the rear and it comes out. These Cat skids are the easiest to put in and out I have ever seen, the 141 is better than the 137 but either way really easy. This must be a Yamaha dealer that is unfamiliar with these.

Never Satisfied is correct, no need to drain engine oil or disconnect the brake line. Takes me a little over 2 1/2 hours.

Key things are:
1 - Have a good split ring pliers
2 - Have a strap to pull the tunnel together a tiny bit
3- Start on left side first. Just seems to go easier that way.
4- Always check the shaft diameter where the brake caliper bearing is on. If you run your track loose....the diameter of the shaft is probably wore down.

 

[Pstn head]

That is not far off. Takes me about 10-12 hours to change out all 4 bearings in the drive train and that includes removing the engine braces, upper support and removing the case. Switching tracks is about 3/4 of that as you still have to remove oil reservoir and chain case cover, all case internals, split the brake caliper, remove rotor etc. Then when going back together, you have to replace engine oil, bleed brake system etc. Now that I’ve done it a bunch, I probably could just swap tracks in 5-6 hours so the 8 hour estimate isn’t too far off.

Jetpilot785 how do you remove the jackshaft bearing behind the secondary ? Put it in a press ? Is the bearing pressed onto the shaft or can it be removed from shaft quite easily ? Any special tools needed.
Also the bearings in the case, is it best to remove and reinsert with a press or lightly drive them out and new ones back in ? Or if anybody else has some suggestions ?

 

[Never Satisfied]

My God why change them, do you have 10,000 miles already? This is like the Tri-Hub, you are fixing stuff that ain't broke!

As for the bearing on the J-shaft near the secondary, I usually pull the J-shaft with the bearing on. Take out the snap ring and heat the brace, the shaft will pull out with the bearing attached. Put on a new bearing, if needed, then heat the brace and shove it back in.

 

[rtx moose]

2.5hrs

 

[Pstn head]

Cool thanks... ya pretty close to 10,000 miles. more like 9000ish

 

[jetpilot785]

Jetpilot785 how do you remove the jackshaft bearing behind the secondary ? Put it in a press ? Is the bearing pressed onto the shaft or can it be removed from shaft quite easily ? Any special tools needed.
Also the bearings in the case, is it best to remove and reinsert with a press or lightly drive them out and new ones back in ? Or if anybody else has some suggestions ?

The jackshaft bearing on the clutch side is pressed into to brace and also onto the shaft itself. A press is recommended as heat may or may not seat it all the on the shaft or brace but also too much heat on the bearing and you risk melting the seals. As far as the case bearings, I just heat the case and smack it on a piece of wood and they fall out but same goes for installing new bearings. The bearing themselves don't have seals but there are seals directly behind each bearing that run a risk of melting, deforming or hardening from the heating process so I usually give the case a light heating to assist with the pressing process but I don't get it hot enough to where they drop right in as its too high risk to the seals. No special tools needed to remove jackshaft. Just a set of snap ring pliers is all. Its not like the viper case where it had a tapered collar to break loose before the shaft would pull out. They went to a deep groove single race bearing in the sidewinder so no need for the special collar and lock nut removal tool.

 

[Pstn head]

Thanks jetpilot785

 

[darv]

thanks guys it a new sled also going to change all the bearing from china to something better.

 

[jetpilot785]

thanks guys it a new sled also going to change all the bearing from china to something better.

I just did that to mine. The sled stock comes with PEER 6009 series (1 with 2 rubber seals and one open) on the drive shaft and a NACHI upper case jackshaft and a KOYO sealed jackshaft on the clutch side. i replaced the 6009's and the upper case bearing with FAG bearings from Germany. NTN is another good choice for those bearings as they are German as well. As far as the KOYO, it has a 28mm inner diameter and it was tough to find a bearing size that would fit that wasn't Chinese so I stayed with the Japanese KOYO bearing as it was better than what was out there. I have a local bearing company that also had issues tracking down a 28mm ID bearing that would work that wasn't Chinese and they said KOYO was a decent Japanese bearing so I just stuck with that one. Neither FAG or NTN makes a bearing that size that I could find. They only had 30mm ID bearing with the number shown on the stock bearing so I'm guessing its kind of a special size for this application and not too many companies offer this exact size as I looked high and low for days and it was either Japanese KOYO or China brand X.

 

[Never Satisfied]

Here’s the chaincase side