Off Trail Mike
Gone Riding!
Thought I'd throw this out to the collective to see what the consensus is. Thought there would be more posts but I searched and didn't find much.
153 MTX with a Timbersled Skid. Just switched away from the Arctic Cat skid in there first. No issues with hyfax wear, its been excellent, but I get a drive vibration. 9 tooth x 3" stock drivers and Power Claw 153 track..
I have been running track really slack for the last two years and never ratcheted, but when I switched skids, I tensioned the track more that normal and vib's seem to have decreased.
I see Ez-Ride recommends 20-22 lbs and 3/4" to 1" of gap?
My ski-doo XM is 15lbs at 1.26"and seems to work well.
Any thoughts or recommendations? I have a hard time believing there is much difference on proper tension between OEM's as they all run the Camoplast track.
I used to think loose is fast, but I am not so sure I subscribe anymore. If I don't have wear issues, seems to me running to spec is worth a try.
Thanks in advance.
Mike
153 MTX with a Timbersled Skid. Just switched away from the Arctic Cat skid in there first. No issues with hyfax wear, its been excellent, but I get a drive vibration. 9 tooth x 3" stock drivers and Power Claw 153 track..
I have been running track really slack for the last two years and never ratcheted, but when I switched skids, I tensioned the track more that normal and vib's seem to have decreased.
I see Ez-Ride recommends 20-22 lbs and 3/4" to 1" of gap?
My ski-doo XM is 15lbs at 1.26"and seems to work well.
Any thoughts or recommendations? I have a hard time believing there is much difference on proper tension between OEM's as they all run the Camoplast track.
I used to think loose is fast, but I am not so sure I subscribe anymore. If I don't have wear issues, seems to me running to spec is worth a try.
Thanks in advance.
Mike
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Not sure if this is relevant as I have a stock skid but here goes.
In had the dealer install a new CE 153 at the start of this season and never tightened it since they completed the install. I have checked the track several times since riding it and it's really loose. I mean slack as f#%k!!!
There's a little vibration on the trail but it goes away in the fluff. Nothing more then the maverick.
About 1.5 inches of sag with no weight but the thing is not ratcheting. Even when pinned on a steep climb in deep fluff.
I do a bit of trail riding so Im hesitant to run it tight. My plan is to run it like it is till it starts to ratchet.
Starting to wondering if its too slack.
That's my experience if its worth anything.
Rg
In had the dealer install a new CE 153 at the start of this season and never tightened it since they completed the install. I have checked the track several times since riding it and it's really loose. I mean slack as f#%k!!!
There's a little vibration on the trail but it goes away in the fluff. Nothing more then the maverick.
About 1.5 inches of sag with no weight but the thing is not ratcheting. Even when pinned on a steep climb in deep fluff.
I do a bit of trail riding so Im hesitant to run it tight. My plan is to run it like it is till it starts to ratchet.
Starting to wondering if its too slack.
That's my experience if its worth anything.
Rg
nitris223
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I had the maverick , probably 2" free sag, now I have a Powerclaw and run it about the same. Track is fairly new so it may stretch a bit more . I always run as loose as I can or feel comfortable with.
Off Trail Mike
Gone Riding!
It's the vibration that has me stumped. I get it on the trail a bit, but more so in the powder and usually when climbing or under WOT.
No damage anywhere, alignment is good. All wheels are good, so it makes me think ballooning on the drivers is occurring when you are giving it the beans.
That is where my track tension theory is coming from. A loose track might be contributing to the problem.
Will try spec and see how it goes.
Thanks,
Mike
No damage anywhere, alignment is good. All wheels are good, so it makes me think ballooning on the drivers is occurring when you are giving it the beans.
That is where my track tension theory is coming from. A loose track might be contributing to the problem.
Will try spec and see how it goes.
Thanks,
Mike
nitris223
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I thought the MTX came with 7 tooth drivers. Did you change yours up. Do you have the PC track fully clipped. Seems strange to happen with a skid swap but I guess it is possible. Is the top of the skid different , like is there anything the track could be hitting on top of the skid. How loose do you have the track.
Off Trail Mike
Gone Riding!
Correct, 7 tooth drivers. You need to fab new mounting holes up front and drop brackets so I simply made it fit the 7" drivers. It's a tight fit, but it works.
Yeah, fully clipped (tried that first), no rubbing of the track or misalignment, all good. Its definitely the drivers as the pitch of vibration (frequency) is too high for anything else. Track pitch (3") is the same to the thousand's of an inch.
I was running very loose, but never ratchets.
The only thing I might try is to shorten my hyfax a bit in the back. My XM has the hyfax cut way before it meets the wheels. Its possible under certain conditions it is catching the back of the rails, but having checked the hyfax with 2400 km's on them, they look good.
OTM
Yeah, fully clipped (tried that first), no rubbing of the track or misalignment, all good. Its definitely the drivers as the pitch of vibration (frequency) is too high for anything else. Track pitch (3") is the same to the thousand's of an inch.
I was running very loose, but never ratchets.
The only thing I might try is to shorten my hyfax a bit in the back. My XM has the hyfax cut way before it meets the wheels. Its possible under certain conditions it is catching the back of the rails, but having checked the hyfax with 2400 km's on them, they look good.
OTM
nitris223
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When you clipped the track , did you use flat clips or guide clips. I ordered camoplast guide clips but the sat higher then the rubber nub when seated in place. They were about 1/8" higher. The cat clips were just below the rubber drive lug. Just to be on the safe side I used flat clips for the rest of them. I don't know if the drivers would have hit the clips or not but I didn't want to waste the clips to find out the hard way. .
Might be your sliders at the back but you should also hear it clicking if they are to long. It's strange what ever it is. I have ran mine up to 89 mph on a groomed trail and I get no vibration.
Is the vibration at your feet. Is the drive shaft straight or is one of the drive cogs out of sync . Just stabbing in the dark now. Checked the bearings.
Might be your sliders at the back but you should also hear it clicking if they are to long. It's strange what ever it is. I have ran mine up to 89 mph on a groomed trail and I get no vibration.
Is the vibration at your feet. Is the drive shaft straight or is one of the drive cogs out of sync . Just stabbing in the dark now. Checked the bearings.
Off Trail Mike
Gone Riding!
Nitris:
Vib was there from the beginning with the PC. I added the additional clips after and had no effect. Same as you I used guide clips and they are a bit higher than the rubber lugs on the power claw, but there is nothing for them to contact on my drivers. That said, I may cut them down next summer as they do just touch my front arm when the suspension is fully compressed (bottomed out), but doesn't happen very often.
Vib is right at your feet, and less so further back. I'll check bearings, but it comes and goes, that's the weird part. On trial its pretty quiet, off trail under power or climbing is when I get it the worst.
Thanks for the suggestions. Hopefully I can make some headway. Don't want to put the POS Maverick back on!
OTM
Vib was there from the beginning with the PC. I added the additional clips after and had no effect. Same as you I used guide clips and they are a bit higher than the rubber lugs on the power claw, but there is nothing for them to contact on my drivers. That said, I may cut them down next summer as they do just touch my front arm when the suspension is fully compressed (bottomed out), but doesn't happen very often.
Vib is right at your feet, and less so further back. I'll check bearings, but it comes and goes, that's the weird part. On trial its pretty quiet, off trail under power or climbing is when I get it the worst.
Thanks for the suggestions. Hopefully I can make some headway. Don't want to put the POS Maverick back on!
OTM
nitris223
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I had a vibration last year with the maverick track at slow speeds on hard pack but never in the deep snow. I was thinking it was a drive shaft bearing but they were good. I thought for sure I would get it with the PC track but nothing so far. The Maverick is a descent trail track, I know that now after switching to the PC. The PC spins real easy on a groomed trail, unfortunately this year I am tempted to put the maverick back on for better traction. We got spoiled last year with snow and this year I am about to right it off for any chance of a good snow day.
When I was adjusting the wife's track after putting in the fourth wheel kit , just with the sled idling I could get the track to rotate around by itself. Every now and again it would get a slapping motion going on and slap the rails , then 2 or 3 more rotations , settle down again. Could just be the belt slipping and grabbing in the clutch for all I could tell.
Yours does it only in deep snow, it sure sounds like ratcheting but any time I have felt the drivers slip I sure felt it through the whole sled. You said you have stock drivers so it is not hitting the little rubber nubs on the outside of the track because you have extro's and inside drivers. Do you have a anti stab kit installed. What do the rail tips look like.
Worse case it has something to do with the suspension install or the design of the suspension.
When I was adjusting the wife's track after putting in the fourth wheel kit , just with the sled idling I could get the track to rotate around by itself. Every now and again it would get a slapping motion going on and slap the rails , then 2 or 3 more rotations , settle down again. Could just be the belt slipping and grabbing in the clutch for all I could tell.
Yours does it only in deep snow, it sure sounds like ratcheting but any time I have felt the drivers slip I sure felt it through the whole sled. You said you have stock drivers so it is not hitting the little rubber nubs on the outside of the track because you have extro's and inside drivers. Do you have a anti stab kit installed. What do the rail tips look like.
Worse case it has something to do with the suspension install or the design of the suspension.
kennyspec
Expert
I have the exact same vibes worse in deep snow. Tightened the track and they almost went away.
Off Trail Mike
Gone Riding!
Kenny:
What tension did you use?
Yami spec is 20 lbs @ 3/4 to 1 inch
My Skidoo says 11-20lbs @ 1.26"
Either way, I'm way more slack than either of these.
Will be trying the doo spec first....
Funny, the Skidoo tension spec is the same for all track lengths (137, 146, 154, 162) which I find odd. You'd think longer would have a bigger sag number.
OTM
What tension did you use?
Yami spec is 20 lbs @ 3/4 to 1 inch
My Skidoo says 11-20lbs @ 1.26"
Either way, I'm way more slack than either of these.
Will be trying the doo spec first....
Funny, the Skidoo tension spec is the same for all track lengths (137, 146, 154, 162) which I find odd. You'd think longer would have a bigger sag number.
OTM
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I remember when I put extroverts on my RX1M I had a vibration at my feet. I jacked the sled up and rotated the track and observed tightness at the track holes and the extroverted cogs. I ground off the leading edge of the extrovert (flattened it off a bit with a die grinder) and the vibration was gone. The track has never ratcheted and I run it loose.
Off Trail Mike
Gone Riding!
Pete:
Is this what you mean? Thought about it too, but wasn't sure if it was worth it.
Is this what you mean? Thought about it too, but wasn't sure if it was worth it.
kennyspec
Expert
My extros have about 4500 miles on them and are pretty wore off. They are almost like a pointed triangle and they still vibrate. So I don't know if grinding the tip off would do anything.
My track maybe has 1" of sag when lifted off the ground. I have never measured it. If it don't ratchet it's tight enough on my book.
I have never looked but are all the teeth perfectly engaged on the drivers to the track? When the leading tooth comes around the driver and disengages from the track maybe the track slips on the driver till it hits the next leading tooth?
My track maybe has 1" of sag when lifted off the ground. I have never measured it. If it don't ratchet it's tight enough on my book.
I have never looked but are all the teeth perfectly engaged on the drivers to the track? When the leading tooth comes around the driver and disengages from the track maybe the track slips on the driver till it hits the next leading tooth?
ViperTurboPete
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OTM,
Yes, that is exactly what I mean! Sometimes I wish I was a computer guru and be able to do stuff like that pic, but I am not!
On mine, it wasn't the tip that was the problem, but the leading edge you are highlighting.
I forgot to mention that another friend of mine...his 2010 MTX SE 162...the extrovert drivers became out of synch somehow causing vibration and damage to the track holes. It could be something to inspect also.
Before you do anything, just observe how your drivers are matching up to the holes in the track. It was very pronounced on my RX1M...the track holes were getting slightly hung up along the extrovert teeth. I could actually see it when I would spin the track by hand. Someguys would report the same thing on their sleds, but the drivers would actually wear away on their own until the vibration was gone...so they said.
Yes, that is exactly what I mean! Sometimes I wish I was a computer guru and be able to do stuff like that pic, but I am not!
On mine, it wasn't the tip that was the problem, but the leading edge you are highlighting.
I forgot to mention that another friend of mine...his 2010 MTX SE 162...the extrovert drivers became out of synch somehow causing vibration and damage to the track holes. It could be something to inspect also.
Before you do anything, just observe how your drivers are matching up to the holes in the track. It was very pronounced on my RX1M...the track holes were getting slightly hung up along the extrovert teeth. I could actually see it when I would spin the track by hand. Someguys would report the same thing on their sleds, but the drivers would actually wear away on their own until the vibration was gone...so they said.
