

SidewinderConvert
4-Stroke Rookie
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In the interest of always being over prepared I am putting together a basic toolkit for semi-minor repairs in the field. (Anything that would be attempted before going to get the truck).
When I was doing the coolant hose this spring I tried to keep track of what sockets/wrenches I used most so I can order a set to live in the back of the sled. Here is what I have so far.
3/8" ratchet
1/4",1/2" socket (replaced T50 bolts on muffler with 1/2" hex)
6,8,10,12,13,14mm sockets
Spark plug socket
1/2" ratcheting wrench
8mm ratcheting wrench
T15,20,30 bits
Longer secondary bolt with 1 1/2in pvc section to force sheaves open for changing belts.
Large pliers and wire hook to remove spring from muffler
Two-Stroke Rope to pull a buddies sled to the nearest bar
What do you guys all carry with you?
When I was doing the coolant hose this spring I tried to keep track of what sockets/wrenches I used most so I can order a set to live in the back of the sled. Here is what I have so far.
3/8" ratchet
1/4",1/2" socket (replaced T50 bolts on muffler with 1/2" hex)
6,8,10,12,13,14mm sockets
Spark plug socket
1/2" ratcheting wrench
8mm ratcheting wrench
T15,20,30 bits
Longer secondary bolt with 1 1/2in pvc section to force sheaves open for changing belts.
Large pliers and wire hook to remove spring from muffler
Two-Stroke Rope to pull a buddies sled to the nearest bar
What do you guys all carry with you?
Last edited:


Turboflash
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Tow strap to tow all them "other" brands back to truck. LOL


SidewinderConvert
4-Stroke Rookie
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Tow strap to tow all them "other" brands back to truck. LOL
The Polaris rope is already in the sled. Also already have the spare belt too.
3/4 in. length of 1 1/2 in. PVC to put behind the secondary washer when changing the belt or popping the secondary off when you have a non-stock secondary spring. A whole 3/8" drive socket set to fix your buddies sled that he doesn't maintain!
Motorhead
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Besides the small tool kit that came with my sled, I carry a triple hook tow strap, box wrenches for track tension, and box wrenches for secondary clutch and helix removal. Blow a belt at 100 or better and it usually means taking the secondary apart for cleaning trail side! Quick job with proper tools.

DMCTurbo
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3/4 in. length of 1 1/2 in. PVC to put behind the secondary washer when changing the belt or popping the secondary off
Can you explain this to me better as I'm finding it tougher every year to push the secondary open to get the belt on or off.
Sorry to keep this on thread on track I carry the stock tool kit, a tow strap, 3/8 ratchet with 10, 12, 13 and 14mm sockets.
Sevey
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Get a 1 1/2 pvc coupling joint.
I had to get a separate bolt that was longer, same thread size as your secondary bolt - just longer.
Always bring a 14mm wrench with you - when you blow a belt - remove stock secondary bolt with 14mm. Pull the bolt out, use the new longer bolt with the pvc and stock washer. Tighten it up and it opens the sheaves. You don't even get your hands dirty.
MS
I had to get a separate bolt that was longer, same thread size as your secondary bolt - just longer.
Always bring a 14mm wrench with you - when you blow a belt - remove stock secondary bolt with 14mm. Pull the bolt out, use the new longer bolt with the pvc and stock washer. Tighten it up and it opens the sheaves. You don't even get your hands dirty.
MS


SidewinderConvert
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- '18 Sidewinder XTX-SE
Get a 1 1/2 pvc coupling joint.
I had to get a separate bolt that was longer, same thread size as your secondary bolt - just longer.
Always bring a 14mm wrench with you - when you blow a belt - remove stock secondary bolt with 14mm. Pull the bolt out, use the new longer bolt with the pvc and stock washer. Tighten it up and it opens the sheaves. You don't even get your hands dirty.
MS
Now those are the kinds of tricks that take first hand experience to understand. Adding the longer bolt/pvc tubing to the list.
Sevey
TY 4 Stroke God
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I actually had a tough time finding a bolt with enough thread length, so I just ran my die over them and extended the threading. Works fine as that bolt is just drawing the sheave out - very little pressure on it.
MS
MS
Sevey
TY 4 Stroke God
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On another note - it doesn't hurt to carry basics like plyers, adjustable wrench, vice grips and a good slotted screw driver.
Why you ask - managed to get some wire wound around the drive shaft in New Liskeard a few years ago. Farmer had dismantled electric fence right beside the trail - guess I picked some up. It was wound so tight. Had to reach up with the plyers and pull it out, cut it with the vice grips and do it again inch by inch. The screw driver can pry nicely. Thank god I had a friend that held the machine on its side. Took almost an hour.
Its all about the basics.
MS
Why you ask - managed to get some wire wound around the drive shaft in New Liskeard a few years ago. Farmer had dismantled electric fence right beside the trail - guess I picked some up. It was wound so tight. Had to reach up with the plyers and pull it out, cut it with the vice grips and do it again inch by inch. The screw driver can pry nicely. Thank god I had a friend that held the machine on its side. Took almost an hour.
Its all about the basics.
MS

DMCTurbo
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Now that's a nice little trick I wish I learned a few years back. Thanks.Get a 1 1/2 pvc coupling joint.
I had to get a separate bolt that was longer, same thread size as your secondary bolt - just longer.
Always bring a 14mm wrench with you - when you blow a belt - remove stock secondary bolt with 14mm. Pull the bolt out, use the new longer bolt with the pvc and stock washer. Tighten it up and it opens the sheaves. You don't even get your hands dirty.
MS
Byam
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custom
Under the hood 2 spares belts.
I In the socks;primary spring, secondary spring, spare primary rollers, spare pin, washer and bolt, spare secondary roller


SidewinderConvert
4-Stroke Rookie
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- 251
- Reaction score
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- Location
- Wisconsin
- Country
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- Snowmobile
- '18 Sidewinder XTX-SE
On another note - it doesn't hurt to carry basics like plyers, adjustable wrench, vice grips and a good slotted screw driver.
Why you ask - managed to get some wire wound around the drive shaft in New Liskeard a few years ago. Farmer had dismantled electric fence right beside the trail - guess I picked some up. It was wound so tight. Had to reach up with the plyers and pull it out, cut it with the vice grips and do it again inch by inch. The screw driver can pry nicely. Thank god I had a friend that held the machine on its side. Took almost an hour.
Its all about the basics.
MS
I should also mention that I don't ever leave home without my leatherman. It has gotten me out of so many binds it isn't even funny. Although that is for everything not just snowmobiling.
yamamarc
TY 4 Stroke God
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That is a great idea!!! I work and many Yamaha's and this trick will very handy!!!Get a 1 1/2 pvc coupling joint.
I had to get a separate bolt that was longer, same thread size as your secondary bolt - just longer.
Always bring a 14mm wrench with you - when you blow a belt - remove stock secondary bolt with 14mm. Pull the bolt out, use the new longer bolt with the pvc and stock washer. Tighten it up and it opens the sheaves. You don't even get your hands dirty.
MS
Thanks for sharing!!!!



What length of bolt did you get
Thanks
Marc


I carry a folding saw,Siphon and batt booster in addition to most things advised here.
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