ecopter
TY 4 Stroke Guru
My right signal and brake do not work, but the running lights do. I realize this is a green wire issue or possibly a bad ground. I've checked the grounds at all places where the system is grounded. My question is does power still get supplied to those lights when there is a bad ground? I need to see if I'm getting power back there and wondered if I would get a reading on my voltage tester.
Thanks in advance.
Jon
Thanks in advance.
Jon
Gibby
Expert
what truck do you have the trailer hooked to??? alot of the newer trucks have fuses for the individual trailer turn/brake signal (right and left) they are in the fuse panel under the hood. hope this help
gibby
gibby
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
If the other turn signal and the running lights are working, then if there is a bad ground, it has to be at the lamp in question.
What I do on turn signals is use an analog volt meter (i.e. one with a needle versus a digital readout). The Digitals take too long to lock up on the voltage to actually see a turn signal operating. When using the analog meter, you should be able to see the 12 VDC being tuned on and off by the flasher. If not, switch to ohm/continuity test mode and see if the ground on the lamp is connected to the trailer ground (i.e. zero ohms between the lamp's ground and the trailer's frame.) If there is a common ground at the lamp/trailer, then you have an open in the 12VDC wire to the lamp. This typically happens at the connection to the TV. But, it could also happen at a splice back (e.g. by the lamp.) Corrosion will show up on bad splices. To test a connection, look for voltage across the connection (i.e. one test meter lead on each side of the connection) Zero volts across the connection = good connection. Any voltage across the connection = bad connection.
Also, on 12 VDC wiring, I have seen in the middle of a wire where the insulation was damaged, corrosion started and progressed to the point it ate the wire such that there was no wire left. You have to look close for these. But, typically the problem is at the TV's connector, which can again be tested by looking for voltage across the wire at the connector.
What I do on turn signals is use an analog volt meter (i.e. one with a needle versus a digital readout). The Digitals take too long to lock up on the voltage to actually see a turn signal operating. When using the analog meter, you should be able to see the 12 VDC being tuned on and off by the flasher. If not, switch to ohm/continuity test mode and see if the ground on the lamp is connected to the trailer ground (i.e. zero ohms between the lamp's ground and the trailer's frame.) If there is a common ground at the lamp/trailer, then you have an open in the 12VDC wire to the lamp. This typically happens at the connection to the TV. But, it could also happen at a splice back (e.g. by the lamp.) Corrosion will show up on bad splices. To test a connection, look for voltage across the connection (i.e. one test meter lead on each side of the connection) Zero volts across the connection = good connection. Any voltage across the connection = bad connection.
Also, on 12 VDC wiring, I have seen in the middle of a wire where the insulation was damaged, corrosion started and progressed to the point it ate the wire such that there was no wire left. You have to look close for these. But, typically the problem is at the TV's connector, which can again be tested by looking for voltage across the wire at the connector.
ecopter
TY 4 Stroke Guru
gibby, Len
Thanks for the quick replies. Electricity is not my forte', however I was able to figure out I wasn't getting power to either of the lights; enclosure or lower trailer. I pierced the green wire about four feet aft of the hitch and had no power there either. Pulled off all the electrical tape from the splices for the four-flat and saw the connector had released one end. Simple!
Len, great explanation. I wish I understood it all. Someone just has to show me once and then I'd understand it all. I scratched my head for hours over this and finally put a plan together. Glad it was as simple as a failed connector.
gibby, I looked at my truck's manual regarding the fuses and it did not have seperate fuses for the hitch. I was hoping it was something as simple as that............in the end, it was. By the way, it's a 2000 Yukon.
Thanks again guys for the assistance.
Jon
Thanks for the quick replies. Electricity is not my forte', however I was able to figure out I wasn't getting power to either of the lights; enclosure or lower trailer. I pierced the green wire about four feet aft of the hitch and had no power there either. Pulled off all the electrical tape from the splices for the four-flat and saw the connector had released one end. Simple!
Len, great explanation. I wish I understood it all. Someone just has to show me once and then I'd understand it all. I scratched my head for hours over this and finally put a plan together. Glad it was as simple as a failed connector.
gibby, I looked at my truck's manual regarding the fuses and it did not have seperate fuses for the hitch. I was hoping it was something as simple as that............in the end, it was. By the way, it's a 2000 Yukon.
Thanks again guys for the assistance.
Jon
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