Ski-Dooin' it
Expert
So for those who are on snowest know that I have taken an 05 ski-doo summit 1000 with a 162, took out the 2 stroke and swapped in an rx1 motor and of course it has some pressure on it! well, i got the motor in.
specs
2003 rx1 motor
stm carb caps and the billet T's
powderlites headshim and cam timing mod
custom 4-1 sidemount header
mitsubishi evo III 16g turbo, the bigest of em all
no intercooler, but my charge tube is a 5" pipe that goes from turbo outlest up to airbox size, so more just a size adapter then a tube.
exhaust side on the turbo is a tad tight, so thats why my boost numbers come up SO fast, dont worry wastegate is like a freakin manhole so there wont be any restriction issues, double downpipe into 3" tunnel dump behind chaincase.
elevation of riding is 6k+ right now, may come down to 4-5k mid winter sometimes.
jetting is 130 mains 75, 17.5 and 2 turns out, so what most run. the issue i am having is my float bowl reference line, i have 2 fittings i can pull from to provide a signal, just seems that it works bizzarely.
i have a 3/8" hose barb tapped into the turbo outlet, no it doesnt leak, and one right in the inlet of the airbox and the air comes in at an angle and hits the thing almost straight on, so both should be getting an amazing signal. with fuel pressure set at 4# at idle referenced from the carb boots the thing starts awsome, afr readings are --- super lean but as soon as i even tension the 1/8" slack in the throttle cable it drops right back to where it should be, no bumping the idle up doesnt make it go away, thats weird for me. I got to do some on snow testing today and heres what happened. idle if i hit WOT the thing might rev say to engagement and as soon as the belt grabbed, lean pops and dies, half throttle it blasts up really fast and hits maybe 6k and is building boost and then lean pops, or i can ease on it and not build boost and keep my afr at around 12-13 and puts around, if i even go barely to hard on it at all the thing just lean pops and i back out of it as its not good for it. fuel pressure rises awsome with boost, its perfect, it seems much like a reference and possible a jetting issue from what I did today.
When I just try to run the line straight off the airbox to the float bowls the thing instantly falls on its face as soon as you touch the throttle more then enough ot pull from 1500 idle up to say 2200. if i run staright off the turbo outlet to the float bowls the thing dies as soon as you even touch the throttle, and when i say dies, it doesnt stall, it just pops and will stall if you dont let off the thing. if I T the two lines together off the airbox and the turbo and run them to the float bowls it runs alright and you can milk it around like i was talking about last paragraph, BUT, it runs better if the line from the turbo is ziptied kinked, so its almost like its all airbox signal, so then it runs halfway enough to blast around, and you can run more then no throttle from idle.
my 3 thoughts are, because i have no intercooler, am I not seeing enough pressure loss from turbo outlet to carb boots to get a strong enough pressure gain to run stock jetting, as normally, the really strong signal in the pitot tube is way more then that after the intercooler. second idea is that my gauge reads so lean at idle, it might be rich popping when i get a super strong signal from my turbo outlet. my 3rd was my tps wires have a small ding in them right on the spot they go into the carbs and was curious what would happen if I was having TPS issues, just a thought as im not sure how it affects the RX1 motors, there on there for some reason.
it seems like jetting up wont just cure my problems as its as SOON as any amount of boost is made the thing fails misserably. im gonna check my billet t's and make sure i didnt brain fart those or something super trivial like that.
sorry for the long post, just trying to get as much info out as i can.
specs
2003 rx1 motor
stm carb caps and the billet T's
powderlites headshim and cam timing mod
custom 4-1 sidemount header
mitsubishi evo III 16g turbo, the bigest of em all
no intercooler, but my charge tube is a 5" pipe that goes from turbo outlest up to airbox size, so more just a size adapter then a tube.
exhaust side on the turbo is a tad tight, so thats why my boost numbers come up SO fast, dont worry wastegate is like a freakin manhole so there wont be any restriction issues, double downpipe into 3" tunnel dump behind chaincase.
elevation of riding is 6k+ right now, may come down to 4-5k mid winter sometimes.
jetting is 130 mains 75, 17.5 and 2 turns out, so what most run. the issue i am having is my float bowl reference line, i have 2 fittings i can pull from to provide a signal, just seems that it works bizzarely.
i have a 3/8" hose barb tapped into the turbo outlet, no it doesnt leak, and one right in the inlet of the airbox and the air comes in at an angle and hits the thing almost straight on, so both should be getting an amazing signal. with fuel pressure set at 4# at idle referenced from the carb boots the thing starts awsome, afr readings are --- super lean but as soon as i even tension the 1/8" slack in the throttle cable it drops right back to where it should be, no bumping the idle up doesnt make it go away, thats weird for me. I got to do some on snow testing today and heres what happened. idle if i hit WOT the thing might rev say to engagement and as soon as the belt grabbed, lean pops and dies, half throttle it blasts up really fast and hits maybe 6k and is building boost and then lean pops, or i can ease on it and not build boost and keep my afr at around 12-13 and puts around, if i even go barely to hard on it at all the thing just lean pops and i back out of it as its not good for it. fuel pressure rises awsome with boost, its perfect, it seems much like a reference and possible a jetting issue from what I did today.
When I just try to run the line straight off the airbox to the float bowls the thing instantly falls on its face as soon as you touch the throttle more then enough ot pull from 1500 idle up to say 2200. if i run staright off the turbo outlet to the float bowls the thing dies as soon as you even touch the throttle, and when i say dies, it doesnt stall, it just pops and will stall if you dont let off the thing. if I T the two lines together off the airbox and the turbo and run them to the float bowls it runs alright and you can milk it around like i was talking about last paragraph, BUT, it runs better if the line from the turbo is ziptied kinked, so its almost like its all airbox signal, so then it runs halfway enough to blast around, and you can run more then no throttle from idle.
my 3 thoughts are, because i have no intercooler, am I not seeing enough pressure loss from turbo outlet to carb boots to get a strong enough pressure gain to run stock jetting, as normally, the really strong signal in the pitot tube is way more then that after the intercooler. second idea is that my gauge reads so lean at idle, it might be rich popping when i get a super strong signal from my turbo outlet. my 3rd was my tps wires have a small ding in them right on the spot they go into the carbs and was curious what would happen if I was having TPS issues, just a thought as im not sure how it affects the RX1 motors, there on there for some reason.
it seems like jetting up wont just cure my problems as its as SOON as any amount of boost is made the thing fails misserably. im gonna check my billet t's and make sure i didnt brain fart those or something super trivial like that.
sorry for the long post, just trying to get as much info out as i can.
RedRocket
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I don't have much to add but that Evo III 16G turbo was big in my Eagle Talon 2.0l 4G63, it must look HUGE on an RX-1 motor.
Are you running a BOV? Second, how did you fit such a large engine in a REV chassis? Any pics? I am not a member of snowest.
Are you running a BOV? Second, how did you fit such a large engine in a REV chassis? Any pics? I am not a member of snowest.
Ski-Dooin' it
Expert
the evo3 16g fits perefect as far as size goes for the rx1 motor, its very well suited to our application.. and half the price of the garrets. as far as fitting the motor, the base is an RT, which is the Mach z chassis for the trail guys, the bulkhead is about 2 inches longer and the side panels are wider, thats how they fit the 1000 sdi motor. the setup fits quite nicely, could be more room, but its easy as heck to work on compared to what I thought it would be like.
I have talked to some people and it seems as thought my carb signal may be TO strong and when i touch the throttle it blasts the the with so much fuel it just dies... kinda like if you just blow into those clear tubes on a stock rx1 at idle... it dies fast, so i ahve to check if im just verying my signal to much, going from a lean with bad signal, then to much signal as 3/8" line allows me to move a LOT of air.
I have talked to some people and it seems as thought my carb signal may be TO strong and when i touch the throttle it blasts the the with so much fuel it just dies... kinda like if you just blow into those clear tubes on a stock rx1 at idle... it dies fast, so i ahve to check if im just verying my signal to much, going from a lean with bad signal, then to much signal as 3/8" line allows me to move a LOT of air.
Ski-Dooin' it
Expert
im thinking the way im running the pitot tube setup on mine, my inlet is 3/8" so when i run float bowl pressure straight of the turbo it dies as soon as i tap the throttle as the thing is getting SO much fuel the thing just poops out...
seems like if I install my powderlites boost controller, its basically a bleeder setup, inline, its like having a variable pitot jet setup so all i have to do is turn the knob and adjust restriction so i get my elevation, temp, boost, and barometric pressure can all be accounted for with the turn of the knob, should make my life WAY easier to tune.
seems like if I install my powderlites boost controller, its basically a bleeder setup, inline, its like having a variable pitot jet setup so all i have to do is turn the knob and adjust restriction so i get my elevation, temp, boost, and barometric pressure can all be accounted for with the turn of the knob, should make my life WAY easier to tune.
