I've just about got my chassis complete, so far I've knocked off close to 90 pounds on a 03 rx1 mtn. I'm going to run nitrous for the start of the season until I get all the handling bugs out but I'm thinking about boost. I was hoping to learn from other guys mistakes and do it right the first time as far as turbo or supercharging goes. I was thinking pretty seriously about the supercharger but now I'm leaning back towards the turbo because of the adjustability aspect. I'm not looking for 300 horse, or so I say now, but I want a system I can upgrade or modify if I choose to. I also don't want to waste money getting a system thats too small and ends up being limited.
Realistically how much power is enough. You read about all these Hp numbers but how do they translate into your average day in the mountains. Also pump gas would be a nice touch. As with anything it seems that the more systems that get out there the more small bugs get identified and repaired. Anything I should be looking for?
Rx1M5
Realistically how much power is enough. You read about all these Hp numbers but how do they translate into your average day in the mountains. Also pump gas would be a nice touch. As with anything it seems that the more systems that get out there the more small bugs get identified and repaired. Anything I should be looking for?
Rx1M5
Turbo Tim
TY 4 Stroke Master
I would have used 3 head gaskets instead of 2 in the two kits I did , I understand that the cam timing is more accurate with 3 . ?? One thing you can benefit from is an improved carb vent sealing from M.P.I. they have a set of billett "t"'s you can purchase.I would have wrapped the exhaust on the rear mount turbo to help keep heat to the turbo better .
snowy1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
the billet T,s from mpi are a must, a bigger turbo first time you don,t have to use it but its there if you want it, BOV if the kit doesn,t come with one, if money allows low comp. pistons and rods for the higher boost that you will want to run,
sledheadgeorge
TY 4 Stroke God
All of the above
+ install a flex joint in the exaust for a rear mount turbo. I really don't know how critical it is for mountain riders but as per my own personal trail expeience. Over time because of the chassis flex your exaust pipe will bend some were. + install a good temp gauge. Boost is good to know but temp. is more important. Make sure it is in the most vissible area.
So how do you knock off 90 lbs on a RX-1 ?
+ install a flex joint in the exaust for a rear mount turbo. I really don't know how critical it is for mountain riders but as per my own personal trail expeience. Over time because of the chassis flex your exaust pipe will bend some were. + install a good temp gauge. Boost is good to know but temp. is more important. Make sure it is in the most vissible area.
So how do you knock off 90 lbs on a RX-1 ?
Like this:
Boss seat (from Freak -6
aluminum steering including cro mo A arms and axles -10
mesh hood -10
Ytz7s battery and aluminim bracket -11
Lightened M7 skid with cromo arms 2 rear wheels alu axels no idlers -25
Custom single exhaust -11
Custom tunnel no steel brackets etc Estimate -10
Ditch tool box -3.75
162 Maverick clipped every third compared to 151 -1
Aluminum bumber brackets and bulkhead braces -2
Ditch tank cover and footwell plastic -3
Custom handle bars cro mo -1
=======
total -93.75
I have K&N's which are good for a pound or two as well. Can't remember off the top of my head but I think the stock air box is close to 5 lbs but it may be only 4. Basically if it was made out of steel and could be made out of something lighter I've done it.
I have weighed every part down to 1/100th of a pound except for the tunnel which I didn't manage to weigh for some reason. Near as I can figure short of a ti chassis the only other things I could do are aluminum spindles, Fox floats or ti springs on the front. All ti springs in the rear and maybe ti bolts. All that would get me another 10 lbs and probably cost at least 1/2 of a turbo setup. So for me that's enough lightweight stuff time start on more HP.
Boss seat (from Freak -6
aluminum steering including cro mo A arms and axles -10
mesh hood -10
Ytz7s battery and aluminim bracket -11
Lightened M7 skid with cromo arms 2 rear wheels alu axels no idlers -25
Custom single exhaust -11
Custom tunnel no steel brackets etc Estimate -10
Ditch tool box -3.75
162 Maverick clipped every third compared to 151 -1
Aluminum bumber brackets and bulkhead braces -2
Ditch tank cover and footwell plastic -3
Custom handle bars cro mo -1
=======
total -93.75
I have K&N's which are good for a pound or two as well. Can't remember off the top of my head but I think the stock air box is close to 5 lbs but it may be only 4. Basically if it was made out of steel and could be made out of something lighter I've done it.
I have weighed every part down to 1/100th of a pound except for the tunnel which I didn't manage to weigh for some reason. Near as I can figure short of a ti chassis the only other things I could do are aluminum spindles, Fox floats or ti springs on the front. All ti springs in the rear and maybe ti bolts. All that would get me another 10 lbs and probably cost at least 1/2 of a turbo setup. So for me that's enough lightweight stuff time start on more HP.
woodsrider
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
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my brothers turboed 03 RX-1 mtn w/159" fully clipped track, weighs 635 full of fuel ready to ride. he still has a few things he could do to lighten up but your into the bigger dollar stuff.
Turbo Tim
TY 4 Stroke Master
Like Snowy1 said get bigger, either a super/turbo. I did the same as Snowy upgraded the turbo this summer. You can always turn up boost when you like. I put in the alu tee's, nice piece for the price, $20 each.
Don't know about the headgaskets, I did 4 turbo last fall. Put 3 in all of them. Timing marks lined up, some people say that marks don't line up, but 2 gaskets line up. From the little I know about it most people don't either. Headgaskets cost $33cdn each, head spacer is $80 plus one gasket. It has .010 more than 3 gaskets. If people made 8/9 to 1 pistons, I would have put them in, and 1 gasket. Didn't really have any problems with the turbo other than learning how to handle the power.
Don't know about the headgaskets, I did 4 turbo last fall. Put 3 in all of them. Timing marks lined up, some people say that marks don't line up, but 2 gaskets line up. From the little I know about it most people don't either. Headgaskets cost $33cdn each, head spacer is $80 plus one gasket. It has .010 more than 3 gaskets. If people made 8/9 to 1 pistons, I would have put them in, and 1 gasket. Didn't really have any problems with the turbo other than learning how to handle the power.
summitking
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
turbo
Man turbo tim youve got sme dam nice set ups lol ill trade you m soul for your sleds and what ever else you have lol
Man turbo tim youve got sme dam nice set ups lol ill trade you m soul for your sleds and what ever else you have lol
3 HEAD GASKETS. 2 STAGE BOOST CONTROLLER.
Mountaintech
TY 4 Stroke God
Reroute the crankcase breather tube to the right side (between intercooler and oil tank) before you roll the sled and dump oil everywhere!
sledheadgeorge
TY 4 Stroke God
IBABAD1 said:
I don't think I would go with the two stage boost controller next turbo I build. I think I will go with a single adjustable. Just less complicated and less to go wrong if anything ever happened.
peteracing
Expert
Sleded. Check out Turbosmart dual stage controlers, works great and
very reliable!. You can adjust low and high boost press. independably
of eachother
very reliable!. You can adjust low and high boost press. independably
of eachother
sledheadgeorge
TY 4 Stroke God
I already have one. But you are limited to were you initially set your wastgate.
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