Urghhh... Front skid bushings and upper idler removal!

[RedPhazer]

Hi Guys,

Man, I love my Phazer but working on this thing is starting to get old! I realize that with 6300+ miles that some things are going to need replacement. But...

My first complaint is the plastic bushings in the upper front arm of the skid that last about 600 miles. I'm sick of replacing them all the time. Would someone please make a brass kit that I can buy and be done with it? UPbushman are you listening?

Second complaint is that removing the upper idlers behind the torsion springs is a major PITA! I had no issue removing the front frame for maintenance, but trying to remove those wheels/bearings is rediculous! Tapping them out is all but impossible due to the shock mounting and configuration of that upper arm and idlers... you can barely get a punch in there and not at a very direct angle to get them out. Am I missing something or did I do something wrong? I used a healthy squirt of PB Blaster on both sides and let is soak. I think I'm going to be spending some time with 400 grit sandpaper to thin out the shafts a bit and they are definately getting a heavy dose of anti-seize.

Sorry to vent here, but between shock valving and hyfax this is the third time I've had the skid out this season and getting the front of the skid up and into position past all the bolts and rivets is also a pain! I love that the lower front shock mounting bolt is blocked in place by the inner idlers too, making front shock removal require yanking the whole skid out! I understand that this is a hi-tec machine and maintenance is second... but come on!!!

By the way, anybody know what size bearing I need to try to find for the upper idlers, and where to find them so I can go ride this weekend if one of the dealers doesn't have them in stock?

Once again, sorry for the rant but I do feel better now! Hopefully I have the Phazer back together in time to hit the U.P. this weekend!

--Tom

 

[UP bushman]

Hey RedPhazer I hear you on the upper skid bushings they are juuuuunk and have been looking at them and will address them in the off season. Keep you updated and any other bushing ideas lets get them going here on this thread.

 

[cannondale27]

I cant remember the size bearing for those two upper wheels but I tried using some PartsUnlimited bearings and they were shot/sloppy in one ride so try to get OEM.Antisieze will help you get them off easier next time.

UP have you looked into doing a bushing kit for the link pivot those two idlers are on that block center shock removal also?

 

[RedPhazer]

I almost drilled a hole in the idler that was blocking the removal of that lower bolt on the front shock. I was worried that it would compromise the strength of the wheel. Any feedback?

 

[Motoman765]

I almost drilled a hole in the idler that was blocking the removal of that lower bolt on the front shock. I was worried that it would compromise the strength of the wheel. Any feedback?

I did the same thing last year to get my shocks out for revalving and had no problems last year or this year with those idler wheels. So don't worry about it.

And to add to the needed bushings, I spoke with Cannondale about his last year and UP Bushman about it this year, we need a replacement for the plastic bushings in the bottom of the center shock in the skid also. Those are shot in mine from all the obvious suspension movement on the shock that wears them out.

 

[RedPhazer]

By the way, if anyone is interested the bearing is a 6006!

I have my sled back together and we are heading for the U.P. tomorrow morning... I CAN'T WAIT!

 

[spike337]

So what is the trick to getting the upper idlers off?

 

[fraolib]

theres really no trick. pull torsion springs off or just one if u only need one side, and i had no problem getting mine off i just hit it from the other side with a bar and hammer. had no problem getting to it. so idk..............

 

[Old Thumper]

If it's not too late, if/when you order new idler wheels, use the part number for the 2009/2010 model sleds. They are not as fragile as the 2007/2008 spoked wheels.

 

[benjamingvsu]

http://www.ty4stroke.com/download.php?id=93211

I can't figure out how to get to these wheels. Mine both need replaced, but I can't get the silver colored piece off. I grabbed a pic from another post, it's the piece he has off the right, but still on the left. I pulled out the Allen bolt, but even smacking with a hammer I can't get those off.

 

[Ruggybuggy]

They're seized to the shaft. Use a good penetrating fluid and after they sit for a day you can use a heat gun to warm and expand the aluminum arm. Should come off with some patients. Make sure you install in the same position.

If they are a really pain in that a$$ you could use a two jaw puller with a socket the same diameter at the shaft. Use the socket so the shaft of the puller has something to push on.

 

[equillibrium88]

Getting the upper idlers off is much easier with the rear skid out of the sled. I had seized bearings with the spoker crap wheels turning on the bearing. Replaced them with solid black wheels. No trick to getting them off. Just whack em with a hammer after spraying some penetrant on them. They'll come free eventually. I agree the bushings are crappy. I only wish they made an oilite to fix these. I took the idler off first so I was just striking the bearing itself. The circlips are on the inside (naturally) and they are a bit of a pain to get at with the shock installed.

 

[Mooseman]

You could try to wedge a punch in the slit of the aluminum piece to try and spread it a bit, otherwise a 3 jaw puller with a socket against the shaft should work. And for a better full rubber wheel to prevent flat spotting, look at this thread:
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... 08#1094208

It's the cats azz (literally!)