Venture Lite tunnel icing

[cannondale27]

If you wrap everything better to keep the heat in the exhaust better this issue will go away.Ceramic coating entire exhaust inside and out would help alot also.Keep in mind the exhaust wrap needs to be coated or it will rot very quickly.They make a spray just for that.Why is there a need for the front to be open?

 

[Bugbear]

Thanks Cannondale for your helpful comments. I didn't know about the spray. My experience is all on aircraft. Basically the front needs to be open because of my ignorance of what's happening temperature wise there with most likely less snow thrown on the tubing. Additionaly, my original intent was to make a practical mod without much fuss. Guess some reconsideration is in order. Any helpful comments are really appreciated.

 

[dankwelp]

First post, after reading the forum for the last few months. Which btw, was a another reason as to why I made the jump to Yamaha. Anyway, bugbear I like your design and thank you for taking the leap and testing it out. I thought of doing something similar after I first got my Venture Lite back in November, but it wasn't nearly as well engineered as yours. I'm just wondering what your total investment was on this.

 

[Bugbear]

Thanks dankwelp. Best guess is about $185-$190. As you know I'm sure, shipping kills ya. Just thawed it out after a weekend ride. Got 1¼ buckets of melt water. Before, I got 3+. Correction: make that $250.

 

[dankwelp]

$250 is well worth not having to chisel blocks of ice off of my machine after a ride. As you can imagine a heated garage or even a garage for that matter is hard to find in the bush.

 

[BombaPolaYama]

If you wrap everything better to keep the heat in the exhaust better this issue will go away.Ceramic coating entire exhaust inside and out would help alot also.Keep in mind the exhaust wrap needs to be coated or it will rot very quickly.They make a spray just for that.Why is there a need for the front to be open?

Here is a good read on the issue of muffler temps and wrapping, with some good reasons not to do it, mainly corrosion and possible break-down of the muffler packing.
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=82312

 

[cannondale27]

Our exhaust is Stainless.It doesnt corrode.The stock Muffler uses baffles and no packing that I ever have seen.Wrapping should not be a issue other than to the wrap itself.

 

[BombaPolaYama]

Our exhaust is Stainless.It doesnt corrode.The stock Muffler uses baffles and no packing that I ever have seen.Wrapping should not be a issue other than to the wrap itself.

Well I don't know but I specifically asked the question and Arteex says that stainless will also corrode but at a slower rate??

 

[cannondale27]

Maybe if its real crummy stainless.Ours is very good I ran the wrap for 2 seasons and there is no signs of any corrosion at all.Wrap all degraded and started falling off though.I didnt keep up on coating it.So this year I took it off and cut off the sides of shield to let more air under the tank.No issues yet.

 

[karl]

If you search the web on the subject of exhaust heat, corrosion, wrapping and flow you can find some very infomative articles written by individuals that have done some pretty good studies. I can't remember everything I have read, but - stainless gains density from heat (read - low effect from heat), steel looses density (read - is effected negatively by heat). Exhaust gasses when forced to retain their heat flow faster and have less density (read - better perfoming exhaust system) Racing teams wrap exhaust systems to improve perfomance as well as move heat away from engine compartments. It has been studied fully - search and become enlightened. If you could keep all the heat in the exhaust system right to the outlet you would improve perfomance. High perfomance automotive racing exhaust systems increase in diameter as the lengthen to keep the flow going as the gasses cool. just my 2 cents.

 

[Bugbear]

Well, just to add a bit that may be neither here nor there, a review of my old TIG welding class notes brings this: There are basicly two types of stainless steel, austinitic and martinsitic. Martinsitic can be identified with a magnet because it has a ferrous content. I'd guess that our exhaust systems are martinsitic and therefore a bit more subject to corrosion because a magnet is attracted to mine. Good to know that two years of of wrapped tubing in Cannondale's machine lasted at least that long.

 

[karl]

It is all about the alloy, isn't it bugbear. And there are many, even within the two classes of stainless that you note.

 

[Bugbear]

Yeah karl. There are four classifications of stainless alloy steels established by the American Iron and Steel Institute. Have no idea what the Japanese classifications are. But we don't need this trivia to come up with a workable solution.

Got the header wrap sprayed with the reccomended sealant now.

 

[Ruckus]

Did mine as well last year. I just gave the header a shot of 1500C hi temp paint and let it dry before wrapping it. When I took it apart a few weeks ago it looked just like it did before I wrapped it up.

 

[BombaPolaYama]

Well, just to add a bit that may be neither here nor there, a review of my old TIG welding class notes brings this: There are basicly two types of stainless steel, austinitic and martinsitic. Martinsitic can be identified with a magnet because it has a ferrous content. I'd guess that our exhaust systems are martinsitic and therefore a bit more subject to corrosion because a magnet is attracted to mine. Good to know that two years of of wrapped tubing in Cannondale's machine lasted at least that long.

Interesting - the knowledge of folks on this site never ceases to impress me.