Yama-saki
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First off, still waiting for snow! I'm doing the snow dance people!
Secondly, fired up the sled and mickey got into my handle bar area and ate some foam/wires. That little f#$%
I now have a short in my hand warmers that I can't trace.
I gave them 12 volts through their wires individually and they get hot. Really hot within a minute.
Is it a problem with my module or what?
I checked with the meter to the left hand grip, then after the right back down. No problems at all.
It seems fine at idle, however when I give it gas it throws the code for hand warmer short.
Anybody have any insight. I am about to buy a new reg and bolt on a switch to override this.
Thanks,
Secondly, fired up the sled and mickey got into my handle bar area and ate some foam/wires. That little f#$%
I now have a short in my hand warmers that I can't trace.
I gave them 12 volts through their wires individually and they get hot. Really hot within a minute.
Is it a problem with my module or what?
I checked with the meter to the left hand grip, then after the right back down. No problems at all.
It seems fine at idle, however when I give it gas it throws the code for hand warmer short.
Anybody have any insight. I am about to buy a new reg and bolt on a switch to override this.
Thanks,
I would check resistance on the grip elements, if one is considerably lower than the other it might be the element shorting, or check resistance to ground on them and and all the wiring involved. It shouldn't be hard to find out whats wrong.
dhkr123
Expert
The heaters are wired directly into the ECU. Use a multimeter to test from the back of the ECU plug on the wiring harness to the grip warmers themselves. Verify that there is zero resistance on the wire, and that it isn't shorted to ground (test with grips DISCONECTED).
The wire you are looking for is YELLOW with RED TRACER.
Note that the grip warmers are wired in SERIES...
Y/R --> Grip1 --> Grip2 --> GRD. Verify that the GRD wire (black) has zero resistance to the battery (-) terminal.
Verify that with the grips hooked up, that there is continuity from Y/R --> battery (-) terminal (should be some resistance since it should be going through both grips). If resistance is 0, you have a short. If resistance is 1, you have a break.
Do these tests with the ECU PLUG DISCONNECTED.
Note: The reason why the fault shows up when you rev up the engine is because the ECU only turns them on when the engine revs up. The grips are OFF at idle. This is to ensure that your stator is generating a greater amount of power than the grips, you would otherwise find it draining your battery and potentially killing your ignition.
If it passes the resistance tests, you probably have a fried ECU.... which considering the state of mickey mouse damage, I find to be highly unlikely.
The wire you are looking for is YELLOW with RED TRACER.
Note that the grip warmers are wired in SERIES...
Y/R --> Grip1 --> Grip2 --> GRD. Verify that the GRD wire (black) has zero resistance to the battery (-) terminal.
Verify that with the grips hooked up, that there is continuity from Y/R --> battery (-) terminal (should be some resistance since it should be going through both grips). If resistance is 0, you have a short. If resistance is 1, you have a break.
Do these tests with the ECU PLUG DISCONNECTED.
Note: The reason why the fault shows up when you rev up the engine is because the ECU only turns them on when the engine revs up. The grips are OFF at idle. This is to ensure that your stator is generating a greater amount of power than the grips, you would otherwise find it draining your battery and potentially killing your ignition.
If it passes the resistance tests, you probably have a fried ECU.... which considering the state of mickey mouse damage, I find to be highly unlikely.
dhkr123
Expert
Note: DO NOT wire those grips individually straight into the battery ever again... you could easily destroy them like that. They are supposed to be wired in SERIES, which reduces the current to each grip based on the resistance of the OTHER.
Look into OHM'S LAW and series resistance. You will note that series resistance is the sum of each individual resistance, and that as the resistance goes up (since the voltage remains constant), the current goes down (ohm's law V=IR, I=V/R). High current = high heat = very bad.
Look into OHM'S LAW and series resistance. You will note that series resistance is the sum of each individual resistance, and that as the resistance goes up (since the voltage remains constant), the current goes down (ohm's law V=IR, I=V/R). High current = high heat = very bad.
Rockmeister
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I HATE mice!
Ran into this same type of mouse related problem myself a few times...
The answers posted so far are very good & accurate! Way cool!
(Nice dhkr123)
Your ECU is probably just fine, sounds like it is doing exactly what it should. Good sign!
Our ECUs are pretty darn tough, it's our stators that aren't so tough.
As stated, believe the problem to be in the wiring.
PM'ed you my number, call me, we will find it, & get you on the trail riding!
Rock
Ran into this same type of mouse related problem myself a few times...
The answers posted so far are very good & accurate! Way cool!
(Nice dhkr123)
Your ECU is probably just fine, sounds like it is doing exactly what it should. Good sign!
Our ECUs are pretty darn tough, it's our stators that aren't so tough.
As stated, believe the problem to be in the wiring.
PM'ed you my number, call me, we will find it, & get you on the trail riding!
Rock
Stillsmokey
Veteran
Do I have to worry about stator damage using a yamaheater?
Rockmeister
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Stillsmokey said:
No, that is one of the big advantages, you can use the YamaHeater without stator damage & still have Warm Hands!
dhkr123
Expert
I'm 100% certain that the stator is NOT at fault. The entire electrical system is happy to run off the battery on these machines. If the stator was cooked and there wasn't enough battery power to keep everything running properly, it wouldn't have cranked fast enough to start.
Stator problems manifest themselves in two ways; the battery not charging, and the engine not running (pickup coil), possibly intermittent, possibly both.
Stator problems manifest themselves in two ways; the battery not charging, and the engine not running (pickup coil), possibly intermittent, possibly both.
Rockmeister
TY Advertiser
- Joined
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- www.yamaheater.com
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- Snowmobile
- 2007 Attak - LOVE my sled!!!
dhkr123 said:
Wasn't saying that the stator was at fault at all.
(How did you possibly get that it was in the stator, from what was posted???)
Simply pointing out the ECU is tough and not likely to be the issue either.
As I stated prior, (look up) the issue is most likely in the wiring.
dhkr123
Expert
Yes, but talking about things tends to get some people thinking about those things...
