Vibration found (M7) Rail tips chewed, what did you do?

[Jonny Rocket]

Me too.

 

[AaronBND]

I have never noticed any vibration at all. When I installed my skid it went on at the same time. It only made sense to me that when you have a track with 2" of slop hanging in it, that it was going to want to push up and back hard over the rail tips in deep powder when they are 6-8" from the drivers. I guarantee these will fix your problem or I will personally give you your money back (just kidding of course)!

Aaron

 

[Thatspec]

Hey Thanks everybody for the responses. Thanks Aaron for the link and the message (will phone you tomorrow). I rode around the yard today with the limiters pulled all the way in and the front shock full soft. Wasn't quite bottomless but did feel better in the sharp transitions. I am definately going for the wheels, exactly what I was looking for. Its just suprising to me the way the rails sit in the bottomless under power, I've got a lot to learn. BTW the track is a 2.52 so I guess the windows would be smaller? assuming less chance of spearing there. Was able to resolve another nagging problem today around the yard so time well spent. Hope to get this all ironed out soon, so far its been a whole new sled. We are still kind of hurting for snow (churning up the rhododendrun) but the stumps are mostly gone.

Now if I could just figure out a decent seat mod...

Thanks all, Mark

 

[ViperTurboPete]

Aaron,

Ok, I have a set of wheels and a cross shaft that looks identical to your anti-stabbers. The cross shaft fits perfect from rail to rail (metal to metal).

Looking at your pics, does your cross shaft go from inside the rail tip to rail tip? (Plastic to plastic not metal to metal) I assume I will have to cut my shaft to accomodate putting the wheels in that spot?

 

[AaronBND]

Thats right. Take a little meat off of both ends equally to compensate for the plastic rail-tips, and than you will have to drill out your rail-tip bolt holes to accomodate the 3/8 bolts that come with the wheels. I used a little loc-tite to ensure they stayed tight!

Aaron

 

[Thatspec]

OK, ordered the wheels. Seems like a necessity if one wants to run the limiters in the middle or all the way loose.

Today I rode with the limiters full tight, middle shock full soft, rear full stiff. Had significantly less vibration. Snow was bottomless most of the time. Never used the shovel once or really got stuck. Even marked an M8 with a decent rider. Definately less ski lift at these settings but in general the thing is unstoppable

Looking forward to the wheels though so I can get some ski lift back.

Very happy!

 

[Jonny Rocket]

So it sounds like pulling the limiter straps in a little helps. I have always kept them all the way out in hopes that it would help in the deep fluff. I am sure this is also why I am getting more vibration. I will wait for the wheels and go from there. Might try to pull the limiter straps in a little.

J.

 

[Thatspec]

J. I couldn't really say that pulling the limiters in all the way helped with anything other than keeping the railtips away from the track (further). Assuming we are all at approx the same settings otherwise, would say letting the limiters out to mid or all the way would be a little better all around setting. The wheels will allow us to do that without worry of spearing.

I rode the limiters both ways in the deep and found no practical difference other than the skis lift more with the limiters looser.
Its pretty much unstoppable either way.

I am just starting to see the need for more track speed (power). Wonder if this could also be acheived with better tunnel to track clearance. Seems its as good as it can be though without dumping another sleds worth of cash into it.

Freezing level is back up and its raining again in the NW....

 

[Jonny Rocket]

Thanks. I think I will keep as is for now and wait for the antistab kit. That should solve my vibration and put me at ease with stabbing the track.

J.