Viper skid R&R

[TD Max]

Any tips for the reinstallation? In the past I have struggled with getting the skid pulled back against the track to get the front arm hooked. I'm doing this with a lift hanging the rear and the skis on the ground/dollies. Thinking maybe if I were to tie the front arm down/limiter strap this should help reduce the tension on the track a bit up front?

 

[Robinmaine]

I did mine alone with the tunnel hanging. Front bolts first. I used a cargo strap and lowered as needed. Then used a pry bar as needed. My hardest thing was I had to drop it out again I put the front in the wrong holes

 

[rbell14]

I'd love to see a good video on how this is done more easily...

 

[cannondale27]

Cardboard to slide skid in track. Torsions un hooked and rear arm collapsed with tiedown. Skis on floor. Get rear up high enough that front of skid clears runningboard right below the bolt hole for cross shaft in tunnel rear will be at least 4 ft high to do this.It goes right in. Best other way is to put sled on its side.Pulling track out 90deg.

 

[drumz11]

I did mine alone with the tunnel hanging. Front bolts first. I used a cargo strap and lowered as needed. Then used a pry bar as needed. My hardest thing was I had to drop it out again I put the front in the wrong holes

Shouldn't be any reason to pull the bolts on the front arm to remove or replace.

Skids are never fun in anymore in my opinion. I don't enjoy pulling them in and out anymore. Slide the front in and use a pry bar through the track windows to compress things. This is what works for me on the 129/137 skid. A handlebar stand or #*$&@ up high works best. Even better is bribing a buddy with beer to give you a hand and enjoy the evening while telling the "Mrs" it's a 4 hour job.

 

[SnoNinja]

Cardboard to slide skid in track. Torsions un hooked and rear arm collapsed with tiedown. Skis on floor. Get rear up high enough that front of skid clears runningboard right below the bolt hole for cross shaft in tunnel rear will be at least 4 ft high to do this.It goes right in. Best other way is to put sled on its LEFT side.Pulling track out 90deg.

On side makes it easier than hanging. I do it right side down though.

 

[cannondale27]

On side makes it easier than hanging. I do it right side down though.

Right side down is how I always spill oil in roll! You sure?

 

[SnoNinja]

Yep, never lost a drop. Set a 5 gallon pair by handle bars and roll sled to right. Set bars on bucket to hold it. Pull bolts, yank skid out, service, and put back. With it on bucket oil level doesn't get where it can leak. It's also not running so not pumping into air box.

 

[cannondale27]

Yes your right. When I roll mine its either bar into the snow or track in air! Probably doesn't matter which side if only rolled to bucket height. Good tip. Will edit.

 

[Black7]

I haven't pulled the rear skid on my X-TX yet. I need to move it to the lower hole (front), and the middle hole (rear). Question: Do I need to compress the suspension with a ratchet strap? Or just loosen the track adjustment bolts (remove track tension), and then remove the four fasteners that hold the skid in, to pull it out? I'll probably do the handlebar end to bucket trick. That's what I did on the Venture GT a few years back.

 

[TD Max]

Cardboard to slide skid in track. Torsions un hooked and rear arm collapsed with tiedown. Skis on floor. Get rear up high enough that front of skid clears runningboard right below the bolt hole for cross shaft in tunnel rear will be at least 4 ft high to do this.It goes right in. Best other way is to put sled on its side.Pulling track out 90deg.

This worked VERY well for me. The cardboard really helped get the skid in place over the lugs. I remove the outer rear wheels for good measure. I used cable ties to hold the rear arm collapsed. Getting the rear arm bolts in was also much easier.