WARNING REPLACING CAM CHAIN TENSIONER

Griz, can you tell me how to put #3 at TDC without taking the valve cover off?

I have my sled just about strip down....only need to remove the secondary and pull the motor mount bolt but I want to make sure I'm at TDC on #3 before I do that.
 
There are two black plastic plugs on the brake side of the engine. Remove the small one to view the timing marks on the magneto rotor and the large one to turn the engine with a socket. The TDC mark should be in the window when #3 piston is at the top of its rotation. Pull the #3 (brake side) spark plug and stick a crew driver into the hole. Rotate the engine "clockwise" until you feel the #3 piston come to the top (make sure the screw driver doesn't get caught as the piston comes up). You have to rotate the engine slowly and when the piston gets close to the top start looking for the timing mark. If you pass the mark do not rotate the engine backwards to align it. You'll need to do a complete rotation again. There are several marks on the rotor but I believe The first mark is TDC which will be in the inspection window when #3 is at the top. I recommend removing all the spark plugs so that there is no compression while rotating the engine.
 
grizztracks said:
There are two black plastic plugs on the brake side of the engine. Remove the small one to view the timing marks on the magneto rotor and the large one to turn the engine with a socket. The TDC mark should be in the window when #3 piston is at the top of its rotation. Pull the #3 (brake side) spark plug and stick a crew driver into the hole. Rotate the engine "clockwise" until you feel the #3 piston come to the top (make sure the screw driver doesn't get caught as the piston comes up). You have to rotate the engine slowly and when the piston gets close to the top start looking for the timing mark. If you pass the mark do not rotate the engine backwards to align it. You'll need to do a complete rotation again. There are several marks on the rotor but I believe The first mark is TDC which will be in the inspection window when #3 is at the top. I recommend removing all the spark plugs so that there is no compression while rotating the engine.
Click to expand...


Thanks again Griz
 
Griz, sorry to bother you again but I have 3 more questions for you then I will leave you alone...promise.

1) To install the Tensioner you simple bolt it on with the 2 bolts, pull the tab and install the bolt and washer where the tab comes out. Is this correct?

2) You mentioned in another Thread that you made a tool out of a 13mm socket to help with the motor mounts. Can you elaborate?

3) Is there any particular way it goes in? Can the blue dot be towards the secondary or should it be towards the brake?


Thanks again for all your help!!!!

I got my sled torn down and I have the parts so I'm going to finish it up tonight. If all goes well I'll be running tonight with no noise.
 
I don't think it matters which way the tensioner goes in. Normally if it does they offset the holes so it will only go in one way. I think I put mine in so the dot was to the inside. Make sure you get all the gasket material off and use a little loctite on the bolt threads. Once it's in and the bolts are tight pull the tab then rotate the engine slowly clockwise so that the tensioner can self adjust. It'll make a clicking noise until it's fully adjusted against the chain guide. If the engine does not roll freely something is wrong so don't force it.

The engine mounts have 3 threaded adjustable spacers (two in the front and one in the back). The back spacer was in the way of the tensioner so I removed it by turning out toward the brake rotor. There is a tool for turning them but I didn't have it so I modified a 1/4" drive 13mm craftsman socket. I used a small grinding wheel and notched the socket leaving two tabs that fit into the spacer notches. The engine alignment is adjusted with these spacers so don't turn the front spacers. When you reinstall the rear one just snug it up and the alignment should be good. I'll try to take a picture of the socket and post it tonight.

Keep the questions coming. I'm here to help.
 
engine spacer tool made out of a 1/4" drive, deep well, 13mm craftsman socket.

DSC04164.jpg
 
nytrodude said:
If your thinking about replacing your tensioner, be sure to remove the valve cover and somehow hold cam gears and chain. When you remove the old tensioner there is a great probability of your cam gears slipping on the chain- putting your cams out of timing. This happened to me and I have now seen it happen to others. After I did mine, the sled wouldn't idle, but it ran really well w/ plenty of power. I still need to figure out how to set my timing correct again. For those who did it already with no problems- consider yourself LUCKY. I was doing it for peace of mind and it cost me my weekend trip to the U.P. Hope this helps someone.
Click to expand...

Was it just on warm up where it didn't idle right? I had mine replaced also and it seems like it has a slight miss? Rpms jump around slightly. Had the carbs cleaned, which helped but I don't know. Sled is definatley not the same at start up as it used to be or at idle.
 
If it doesn't seem the same it may have jumped a tooth or two. Pull the covers and and check the timing marks. If you paid or had it done under warranty I'd take it back and make them check it.
 
CENA, mine would not idle when cold or warmed up. I removed and cleaned carbs 3 different times with no change! I finally picked up a ruined rage motor that the timing is still correct on- so I will use that to reset mine. I posted about this engine on another post. This motor appears to have had the counter-balance weight bearing go out and put a hole in the block.
 
My son in law just got our rage back together,thanks for advice given on here and he bought a manual to be sure. He's not in a hurry to do another one,but we have another one. plowking
 
Well....The dealer did mine a couple of months ago. It has never idled right and since the tensioner change the power is really flat at the top end. The carbs have been cleaned several times and sync'd. Even swapped out carbs with another sled that ran great and the problem remains. Would this be a symptom of a jumped tooth?
 
I'd take the time to check the timing marks. It can definitely run flat if not timed right. You'll have to remove the rocker cover which is not to bad of a job and if it is timed wrong take it back to the dealer and make them fix it.
 
grizztracks said:
I'd take the time to check the timing marks. It can definitely run flat if not timed right. You'll have to remove the rocker cover which is not to bad of a job and if it is timed wrong take it back to the dealer and make them fix it.
Click to expand...

Thanks Grizz! ;)!
 
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