WARNING REPLACING CAM CHAIN TENSIONER

HAD MY TENSIONER REPLACED BY DEALER LAST SUMMER. THIS SEASON I HAVEN'T BEEN ABLE TO GET OVER 14 MPG. WAS GETTING OVER 18MPG. SEEMS TO RUN OK. MAYBE NOT THE SAME ACCELERATION AT TOP END. TOOK IT BACK TO DEALER AND HE REBUILT PRIMARY CLUTCH AND IT PICKED UP 1 MPG. NOW GET 15 MPG. HE AND ONE OTHER DEALER SAID IT COULD NOT HAVE SKIPPED A TOOTH WHEN REPLACING TENSIONER. SECONDARY GOOD AND NEW PLUGS. PULLED PLUGS AND COLOR GOOD. NOW DEALER IS SUSPECTING PISTON RINGS FROZEN. ANYONE LOSE MILEAGE AFTER REPLACING TENSIONER?
 
Well I finally got my sled back together today to test everything. Only went for a short run but everything appears good and no noises.

The reason I took so long to respond is that after replacing the cam tensioner I took it for a short run and the original noise was gone but then I had a whining noise. Turns out that I also had a bad Jackshaft bearing (secondary side). Finally finished that up today and everything sounds really quite. Haven't noticed any mileage change or torque change. Once I take it for a longer ride I will be better able to judge.

Many thanks to Griz for help with the many questions I had.... :Rockon: :Rockon:
 
Good to hear things worked out for you Yammi-Rider. We're lucky to have a site like TY and all it's knowledgeable members to discuss and solve all our snowmobiling issues. I'm glad I could help.
 
Mine has also been back together for a week. Do not have a lot of snow to run it, but took it it out and seems fine- idles perfectly again. In using the Rage engine to get my timing correct, I found that you needed to have the 2 close marks centered on the "pointer" at the crankshaft inspection hole- then the intake lines and exhaust arrows were parallel to the engine block. I also noticed at that point the #3 cam lobes on intake and exhaust were slightly opening the valves- therefore I had to slightly rotate each cam gear and release tensioner at the same time. Am I wrong? It is now timed just like the other engine. My cams are in the same position as the page grizz posted. Now I might be getting confused but this appears to be #3 tdc exhaust stroke(exhaust almost closed and intake starting to open). With one more complete revolution then #3 valves are all closed(compression stroke) and #1 lobes are pressing down on lifters- pretty much straight down- so that seems to be the way you would want it to remove your tensioner? With those pressing straight down the cams wouldn't want to rotate on you? I'm just asking because that seems a little risky also? At that point #2+#3 Lobes are not pressing on any valves.
 
Update...got for a good ride over the weekend and man it sounds really quiet now..almost makes me want to get the clutch rattle fixed again. LOL

I guess the noises I was hearing were getting worst over time because now besides for the clutch rattle it's like the first day I drove it back in the fall of 2004....quiet as a church mouse.

Griz...I agree. I don't use TY much because I'm pretty handy but when I do the knowledgable members always point me in the right direction.

Excellent site... keep up the great work TY members!!!!!!!!!!
 
grizztracks said:
Good to hear things worked out for you Yammi-Rider. We're lucky to have a site like TY and all it's knowledgeable members to discuss and solve all our snowmobiling issues. I'm glad I could help.
Click to expand...

With out guys like you to help us non wrenching riders things would get very costly.......... I've learned so much just following threads on this great site.. Thanks again.. Turk also comes to mind.. MM. ;)! ;)! ;)!
 
Phantom said:
The tensioner/chain on my 05 Rage started making noise just last week at 14,775 miles I'm glad I heard it but I'm disappointed that I didn't break the 15,000 mile mark this season.
Click to expand...
Hey phantom, Any other problems in 14,000+ miles we should know about? MM.
 
MadMax said:
Phantom said:
The tensioner/chain on my 05 Rage started making noise just last week at 14,775 miles I'm glad I heard it but I'm disappointed that I didn't break the 15,000 mile mark this season.
Click to expand...
Hey phantom, Any other problems in 14,000+ miles we should know about? MM.
Click to expand...

Other than a broken "W" arm a few seasons ago that I replaced with a used one that I removed and reinforced before this season, a broken front skid spring and the #$&@ plastic suspension bushings that wear out every other season it is just the normal wear items.

This off season I'm going to replace the tunnel protectors with plastic in an effort to reduce ice build up in the tunnel.
 
How about those famous donuts I keep hearing about?????????...I have 7,500 miles on mine so far so good.. MM.
 
hi, I'm new on this forum and I can say that we can find a lot of good information here! I hear a sound like a valve noise when my engine is warmed and the RPM is above the idle but i'm not able to say if it come from near the disk brake or from the top of the engine (from the valves cover) I have make a small video, the sound is not very good but we can hear the sound that is does. Anyone can confirm that the sound come from the cam chain tensioner?

http://s794.photobucket.com/albums/yy227/Jeff_Yam/?action=view&current=MOV01489.mp4
 
Pretty hard to tell from the video.
I used a mechanics stethescope and the most noise was from the raised part on the right side of the valve cover were the cam chain runs. Yamaha changed both of ours.
 
Something doesn't sound right but I'm not sure if it's the tensioner. I don't think I'd continue running it until it's checked out. These sleds run interference engines so if the timing jumps it may destroy the engine. The tensioner problem is with the 05 to 07 three cylinder engines only. If that is what you have and it still has the orange dot tensioner I'd start by replacing it. While you have the valve cover off make sure you inspect the cams, gears and chain for excessive wear or damage. The procedure to replace the tensioner is posted as a sticky at the top of the RS forum page.
 
It's a 2005 Rs Venture and I don't know if it have the orange dot or the blue dot on the tensioner. Tomorrow I will buy a stethoscope and listen near the tensioner I will also check the cylinder compression. I will come back to post the results.
 
If it is the tensioner it will be louder near the RH side of the engine. You should be able to get the scope in around the tensioner and distinguish between valve train or tensioner noise. The bad tensioner that I've listened to had an inconsistent noise that did not always follow the engine RPMs unlike the valve train which tends to be in sync with RPMs. I've changed a few of theses and there is no visible evidence of a failed tensioner. I've even disassembled the bad tensioners and haven't seen anything that would make me believe it was bad but when you install the new blue dot tensioner the noise disappears. All I can figure is that the tensioner springs fatigue over time and don't apply enough pressure to maintain the chain tension.
 
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