What am I doing wrong? (rear mono skid re-install)

[Irv]

I've personal noticed that tighter is faster than looser on the mono suspensions, or at least with my Cobra track. Loose balloons too much and grabs too much air.

Not really caring too much about a few MPH, I just want it loose as possible without ratcheting to help with hyfax wear and heat.

I have read all over TY that the stock factory setting is too tight and that by loosening it up some(?) will help with both.

 

[Budweiser]

I've taken my skid in and out countless times and for me, it comes out easy and is always harder going back in. And I have a electric hoist mounted to the ceiling with a handheld up/down controller. It is what it is. Transfer rod out is a must.

On my Attak I have the track hanging about 1.5 inches with its own weight. If it doesn't ratchet, I think its fine. My track is not studded though.

 

[Irv]

On my Attak I have the track hanging about 1.5 inches with its own weight. If it doesn't ratchet, I think its fine. My track is not studded though.

I think that is the difference, studded or not studded?

I re-tightened mine some and hope it is ok (ratcheting) but won't know for sure until I ride it? It is studded with 108 up the middle.

 

[LJ 452]

How the front of the sled is set is just as important as the rear. The skis should be on the ground and the track pulled tight to the rear of the sled. Make sure the drivers are not caught up on a track cog, that will essentially tighten the track and make matters worse. Once the transfer rod or rear strap is removed (if needed) then slowly lower the tunnel little by little until it's close. Then you may have to move the rear arm fore or aft to align it. When I mentioned removing the coupling blocks I was backwards, you actually want the rear arm to travel forward, so removing the rear strap may be necessary. You basically over travel the rear scissor then once everything's bolted in, just use a bar to bring the scissor back to the normal rearward direction. Put the rear strap back on and your done. Like I said I've never had to remove anything on my Nytro before so there may be other ways, I just know it works on the Mono, and allowing the rear scissor to shift forward works on dual shock suspensions, Cat, Yam, and Doo.

 

[Maurizio Benelli]

Alright, here´s my problem.

I´ve removed the bolt from transfer rod (rear arm) and installed the front arm bolts succesfully. Track is loosened and everything should be okay to install the rear arm bolts, right? I can´t get the holes to line up, they are at least 1" off. I´ve tried everything I can imagine, I tried to compress the rear shock with a ratchet but I´m pretty sure it doesn´t compress a bit. Rear shock has just been serviced and revalved so it should be ok.

Any suggestions other than dynamite which I´m considering right now?

 

[Irv]

Alright, here´s my problem.

I´ve removed the bolt from transfer rod (rear arm) and installed the front arm bolts succesfully. Track is loosened and everything should be okay to install the rear arm bolts, right? I can´t get the holes to line up, they are at least 1" off. I´ve tried everything I can imagine, I tried to compress the rear shock with a ratchet but I´m pretty sure it doesn´t compress a bit. Rear shock has just been serviced and revalved so it should be ok.

Any suggestions other than dynamite which I´m considering right now?

Sounds identicle to the same issue(s) I was having!

Like what was mentioned, make sure the front of the track isn't outside the cogs and your track is completely loosened off at the rear.
Pull all the slack towards the rear and get it as close as possible(raising and lowering to find the best spot is a must) then get your buddy or your wife, like I used ready with the bolts, lay on your back and with your foot push on the upper idler until the hole lines up, get wife to insert and start a few thread then do the other side.
Wasn't easy but we were successful and I am pretty sure the beer and Clamato juice helped as well

 

[Newfie Apex]

track install

When I did the two suspension installs lately I found you get the rear bolts in first..then let the limiter straps go...this is the trick..hten you can get the front bolts in easy..then put a jack under the front of the track and jack it up till you can bolt up the limiter strap ...it works and no head banging

 

[Irv]

Re: track install

When I did the two suspension installs lately I found you get the rear bolts in first..then let the limiter straps go...this is the trick..hten you can get the front bolts in easy..then put a jack under the front of the track and jack it up till you can bolt up the limiter strap ...it works and no head banging

Worth a shot, think I will try that the next time

 

[LJ 452]

Are you guys moving the pivots around to get different angle? Remember you want the pivot to move further forward then it would normally be allowed to, this is the reason for removing the transfer rod bolt. Remove the bolt and move the arm back and forth, you should see how it would align if the tunnel is held at the corect height. I not joking in that I've done this several times by myself. It really is possible, something simple is missing. Take a look at the attached photo, hope this helps. Yes, I know there was a wheel missing, I was waiting for it.

 

[yamaslob]

Ratchet Straps!!!

 

[Irv]

Are you guys moving the pivots around to get different angle? Remember you want the pivot to move further forward then it would normally be allowed to, this is the reason for removing the transfer rod bolt. Remove the bolt and move the arm back and forth, you should see how it would align if the tunnel is held at the corect height. I not joking in that I've done this several times by myself. It really is possible, something simple is missing. Take a look at the attached photo, hope this helps. Yes, I know there was a wheel missing, I was waiting for it.

In all honesty I tried everything and it would still not go in easy!

Like I said earlier, it came out super easy, a lot easier than any skid I have ever taken out before so I thought for sure it would go back in just as easy?

When the skid comes out next, I will try again but after reading this post plus all the others I did when I was having trouble, I just don't see or get where I went wrong? (assuming I did?)

 

[spike337]

I've tried about all the ways suggested, and they work, it's just not a picnic! They should make in-mates do this job!(and stud)

 

[Fourcam281]

I had to undo the transfer rod and front straps and it fell right in.

 

[Carver]

Put mine back in for the first time about a month ago.
I had to undo the limiter strap and take out a bolt on the transfer rod.
Front bolts first, then the rear bolts in. Its still a battle, but it goes in.
Once it was bolted in, I had my wife sit on the sled while I put the limiter back in.

 

[Bigblue1]

i put a block under the rear of the suspension and it forces some compression and movement when you let the skid down. I do this with the transfer bolt out and its fairly easy.