BA APEX
Expert
i had 1900 miles on it.STORM-CHASER said:
what do you do about stud tear outs
- Thread starter STORM-CHASER
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Dont risk it. I had a tear out on the outside belt and the rest of the track was perfect. Tear out was on a paddle with a closed window and I thought It would be OK. Well let me tell you, it is no fun having a track blow out the back end at 115 MPH. REPLACE IT. It is dangerous and only a matter of time before it goes...BBY
I put one of these ice ripper tracks on mine
http://www.partsmag.com/0508/Camoplast- ... -0508.html
They're not as good as having picks but they work pretty good for stopping on ice. I had a stud rip out and put a hole in my front heat exchanger last year while i was in NY. That's why i went with this track this year. Plus my tunnel isn't all beat up like my last sled was with studs. I think i paid around $390 out of Hudons in NY. If you like drag racing on lakes don't get one.
http://www.partsmag.com/0508/Camoplast- ... -0508.html
They're not as good as having picks but they work pretty good for stopping on ice. I had a stud rip out and put a hole in my front heat exchanger last year while i was in NY. That's why i went with this track this year. Plus my tunnel isn't all beat up like my last sled was with studs. I think i paid around $390 out of Hudons in NY. If you like drag racing on lakes don't get one.
Shivesy
Expert
Storm-Chaser sorry that had to happen to you. I like the assurance that when I'm on ice or when the trails ice up that I have all the traction i can get. So for that reason I'm for suds but I sure wouldn't want to have what happened to you happen to me. I feel for ya.
I installed the double-single 144 pattern on the Apex last Sept. and used a torque wrench to torque each tall nut with nylon to 17 ft. lbs. I also used the square backer on all the single studs. Then I waited a month and in Oct. checked the torque on all the nuts again. Most all the studs had time to recess into the track a little and the nuts had lost the 17lbs of torque. I went back thru the track and torqued all the nuts again to 17lbs. Then in Nov. I again checked the torque and all the nuts remained @ 17lbs.
Have you checked your nuts lately!
I couldn't resist and had to throw that in there, but do you check the torque spec's of you studs?
I installed the double-single 144 pattern on the Apex last Sept. and used a torque wrench to torque each tall nut with nylon to 17 ft. lbs. I also used the square backer on all the single studs. Then I waited a month and in Oct. checked the torque on all the nuts again. Most all the studs had time to recess into the track a little and the nuts had lost the 17lbs of torque. I went back thru the track and torqued all the nuts again to 17lbs. Then in Nov. I again checked the torque and all the nuts remained @ 17lbs.
Have you checked your nuts lately!
I couldn't resist and had to throw that in there, but do you check the torque spec's of you studs?
STORM-CHASER
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Well I just ordered a ice ripper I will give that a try.395.shipped anyone needs a deal call ken V 1-920-788-0220 At Ken's sprorts he also has some ice claws for 329 also fully cliped rip shaw for 299 There some great deals
STORM-CHASER
TY 4 Stroke Guru
I took all the studs out so I can run it this weekend,My ice ripper is on the way, but it should not hurt to run this as long as the studs are gone, I hope anyway. Has anyone ever blew one up with out studs??????????
k-9 03
Newbie
Not everyone does it for that reason. The reason why I stud my tracks is b/c of ice. Where we ride the corners tend to get very icy after heavy traffic. One 360 into a snow bank and you would stud yours too. Also stopping is important wouldnt you think? on ice rubber does nothing to help you stop. If you are easy on the throttle in bad conditions hopefully you will not have problems. But they definetly weaken the track somewhat.LazyBastard said:
Ripsaw+studs=tear outs?
Seems to be alot of tear outs with these Ripsaw tracks.
Don't hear much about others, not that I have seen any polls on track brands and the history of the track and use.
I originally was going to go w/o studs in my Apex, but have since realized that they would be beneficial in safety for icy trail and lake/river riding.
Now I'm hesitant to install the studs as several people have shown the ill effects of studding these sleds.
I have had other sleds with studs and no issues with them, but am concerned with the use of studs in these speceific tracks-sure wouldn't like to think of changing out a front heat exchanger on an Apex!!
Contacted Camoplast, and was told adding the 144 down the center isn't a problem if done correctly.
They did recommend their pre-drilled tracks which are specifically designed to be studded or the Ice Ripper track, which is fine if you are in need of replacing the an existing track.
I understand track damage can happen due to alot of things, but it just seems more and more people are seeing problems with the Ripsaw.
Maybe time for a poll on tracks/studs/problems?
Seems to be alot of tear outs with these Ripsaw tracks.
Don't hear much about others, not that I have seen any polls on track brands and the history of the track and use.
I originally was going to go w/o studs in my Apex, but have since realized that they would be beneficial in safety for icy trail and lake/river riding.
Now I'm hesitant to install the studs as several people have shown the ill effects of studding these sleds.
I have had other sleds with studs and no issues with them, but am concerned with the use of studs in these speceific tracks-sure wouldn't like to think of changing out a front heat exchanger on an Apex!!
Contacted Camoplast, and was told adding the 144 down the center isn't a problem if done correctly.
They did recommend their pre-drilled tracks which are specifically designed to be studded or the Ice Ripper track, which is fine if you are in need of replacing the an existing track.
I understand track damage can happen due to alot of things, but it just seems more and more people are seeing problems with the Ripsaw.
Maybe time for a poll on tracks/studs/problems?
QCRider
TY 4 Stroke Master
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Quebcois in general don't like studs from what I have seen. So you can count on every significant hill having all of the snow blasted off of it because they all have to hammer it to get up the hill. I also truly LOVE riding a trail behind the guy with no studs that thinks it's cool to fish tail out of every corner and blow all the snow off there too.
To me, studs are a safety item and if it means I have to replace my track once in a while so be it.
To me, studs are a safety item and if it means I have to replace my track once in a while so be it.
Shivesy
Expert
I think that when you add studs you have also just increased the amount of maintenance on the sled. I could see that if one was to add studs and think they are maintenance free after that point, is looking for trouble. I have put on 1600 miles this season and today I checked all my studs (Stainless Woody's with square aluminum backers and tall nuts) on the RS Venture. Out of 108 single studs 10 or so needed to be brought back up to torque. 4 of the square backers were deformed (edges were bent up) so I replaced them. If I wouldn't have checked them I believe that I would have been asking for trouble. Maybe alot of guys are not checking their studs and are thinking they are maintenance free thus the trouble?
Tear outs caused by??
Could a lot of the "tear out" problems be caused by loose studs, more so than hitting a rock or other debris in the snow?
I realize there's more horsepower and torque with these sleds say than with a 500-600cc sled but if you're not doing hard, holeshot starts and extreme braking as well as occasionally checking the studs as mentioned above for proper torque or damage, tear-outs should be rare I would think.
Could a lot of the "tear out" problems be caused by loose studs, more so than hitting a rock or other debris in the snow?
I realize there's more horsepower and torque with these sleds say than with a 500-600cc sled but if you're not doing hard, holeshot starts and extreme braking as well as occasionally checking the studs as mentioned above for proper torque or damage, tear-outs should be rare I would think.
cat hunter
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I have 168 gold diggers and lost 3 studs by push through while riding on very hard ice chunks on the trail.My studs were torked twice and i crawled across the ice with no spinning???I have put 1300 miles in not so good conditions this year with no other stud problems!!! 
STORM-CHASER
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Re: Ripsaw+studs=tear outs?
I think because the ripsaw has to have such a long stud there getting more tear outs
I think because the ripsaw has to have such a long stud there getting more tear outs
shanksyamaha
TY 4 Stroke Guru
I DEFINATELY DON'T GET STUDS BECAUSE "EVERYONE ELSE IS DOING IT"
I will not ride without studs...Its way too dangerous!! I almost died trying to ride an xc 700 with no studs. I slid to the edge of a cliff on an icey corner and almost plumeted to my death about 100 feet to rocks.. F-that!!!
Then I tried it again when I got my RX-1. I rode for two weeks without studs, I had 450 miles on my sled, I looked at my track and my track lugs were all ripped off. The sled spun so much it ripped most of my track lugs off and I had to replace the track with only 450 miles on the sled...
I can honestly say I have replaced alot of tracks. (upwards of 15) over the years but I have only replaced one that had less than 1000 miles on it and it was the one I did not studd....
I don't think its just the ripsaws either.. I have had tons of studs pull through all different kinds of tracks over the years.. I was changing tracks due to pull throughs back in 1993 on my polaris RXL 650.. I have had everything from kimpex tracks to camoplast to whatever I could get... and they all will throw studs eventually... Still very much worth it for the safety aspect... I consider most tracks to have about a 4500 mile limit.. if you make it that far without throwing the track, thats pretty good, time to replace.... IMO..
IMO.. If you ride groomed trails- GET STUDS
if you ride frozen lakes- GET STUDS
if you ride in limited snow conditions- GET STUDS
If you ride in icey conditions- GET STUDS
If you ride fast- YOU MUST HAVE STUDS
If you ride in deep deep powder.... Well, I don't ride in deep powder so maybe you can get away without them there but from my experience (22 years riding snowmobiles) If you ride in any of the above mentioned conditions..... GET STUDS!! They are worth their weight in gold and will SAVE YOUR LIFE!!!
I will not ride without studs...Its way too dangerous!! I almost died trying to ride an xc 700 with no studs. I slid to the edge of a cliff on an icey corner and almost plumeted to my death about 100 feet to rocks.. F-that!!!
Then I tried it again when I got my RX-1. I rode for two weeks without studs, I had 450 miles on my sled, I looked at my track and my track lugs were all ripped off. The sled spun so much it ripped most of my track lugs off and I had to replace the track with only 450 miles on the sled...
I can honestly say I have replaced alot of tracks. (upwards of 15) over the years but I have only replaced one that had less than 1000 miles on it and it was the one I did not studd....
I don't think its just the ripsaws either.. I have had tons of studs pull through all different kinds of tracks over the years.. I was changing tracks due to pull throughs back in 1993 on my polaris RXL 650.. I have had everything from kimpex tracks to camoplast to whatever I could get... and they all will throw studs eventually... Still very much worth it for the safety aspect... I consider most tracks to have about a 4500 mile limit.. if you make it that far without throwing the track, thats pretty good, time to replace.... IMO..
IMO.. If you ride groomed trails- GET STUDS
if you ride frozen lakes- GET STUDS
if you ride in limited snow conditions- GET STUDS
If you ride in icey conditions- GET STUDS
If you ride fast- YOU MUST HAVE STUDS
If you ride in deep deep powder.... Well, I don't ride in deep powder so maybe you can get away without them there but from my experience (22 years riding snowmobiles) If you ride in any of the above mentioned conditions..... GET STUDS!! They are worth their weight in gold and will SAVE YOUR LIFE!!!
heelingcowboy1
VIP Member
X2!!! Safety factor for me as well!!!! With a properly studded track you can get LOTS of miles out of them---I take carful consideration when choosing a pattern for a sled. That and you have to ask yourself what you are studding for??? I ride in all types of trail conditions and I opt for a 144 double/single pattern down the middle. This gives excellent grip but also allows excellent cornering. I ran this pattern on a 121 ripsaw last year,put 3120 miles on it and only lost one stud. this year I extended to a 136 and I used the same pattern.
