sledneck22
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I also have a track with quite a few pull throughs. I am going to go through and retorque all the studs down and and ride it for the beginning of this season since I didn't realize it until about a month ago. This was the first sled with studs in for mm and didn't realize it was good to go through and retorque through the season. So many of mine are loose now and I can only assume that is the reason for many tearouts. Once they are all retightened I think my track should last for at least another 500 miles or until I get all my christmas shopping done and buy a new track. Ill let everyone know how this goes and maybe I won't be able to ride until I get a new track we will see. I am working on it Tuesday night so we will find out then if I can even get all my studs to tighten up. Ill be checking it at every stop sign to make sure lol.
shanksyamaha
TY 4 Stroke Guru
It is a gamble with studs pulled out.. Last year I had a buddy with a boosted RX warrior that had 8-10 stud pull outs.... He rode the crap out of it, pounded it at high speeds, ran the entire length of the lake at WOT and had no problem. He put over 1200 miles on that track, under boost, with 8-10 studds pulled through...
On the other hand... I had one stud pulled out (it was an outside stud though, I dont stud the outside anymore) and I blew my track...
so it is for sure a gamble. I have blown tracks with no studs pulled out and I have ridden entire seasons with multiple pull outs... I think if you keep it in mind and dont hold it to the bar for 10 miles... you should be ok until you have the chance to get another track...
On the other hand... I had one stud pulled out (it was an outside stud though, I dont stud the outside anymore) and I blew my track...
so it is for sure a gamble. I have blown tracks with no studs pulled out and I have ridden entire seasons with multiple pull outs... I think if you keep it in mind and dont hold it to the bar for 10 miles... you should be ok until you have the chance to get another track...
apex_shug
Veteran
pulled two studs from 07-08 season, rode all last year with out a problem.
no worries.
no worries.
Yamaha 40th
Extreme
I was wondering the same question, I found one pulled out still looking for others....mine looks different a ( pattern around the hole not a complete pull-thru????
Coondog2707
Pro
I lost a couple back in '99 and kept riding it. It finally let go at high speed, a big flap about 2 ft long came free and swung around repeatedly until the heat exchangers, tunnel, tail light, seat and my coat were all garbage. And it coulda been worse!! If you know its bad, change it or you deserve what you get.
shanksyamaha
TY 4 Stroke Guru
I have had tracks fly apart in chunks too and ruined a snow flap, tail light, bumper, and had to straighten the tunnel in the rear.
The trick is if you know its bad, start putting some $$ aside until you can order the track and stud package you want and until then, realize your track is bad and don't be running it at WOT...
The trick is if you know its bad, start putting some $$ aside until you can order the track and stud package you want and until then, realize your track is bad and don't be running it at WOT...
breakinbarrs
Expert
Studs
I have 06 ER,9000 miles 192 1.325 Woodys on the original ripsaw with one pull through, that happened at the end of last season. The core was still in good condition but the paddles were dry rotting and breaking. I have had tracks start to fall apart with 168 studs and less at much earlier stage of their lives, between 3500 and 6000 miles. The sleds had much less torque, weight and hp,except my xcr 800 boy I still miss that lion, than my Apex. IMO the ripsaw is one of the best all around trail performers I have owned. Replacing with a fully clipped 1.25 Ripsaw with 240 nails,think it will hook up? My experience has been with the bigger hp sleds the more studs the less pull throughs. Also I have and continue to stud outer band and have never had a failure there. on the outer band I run them all in the middle instead of trying not to replicate strike lines and have been fine, your cornering bite comes from the outer band,acceleration and stopping from inner.
I have 06 ER,9000 miles 192 1.325 Woodys on the original ripsaw with one pull through, that happened at the end of last season. The core was still in good condition but the paddles were dry rotting and breaking. I have had tracks start to fall apart with 168 studs and less at much earlier stage of their lives, between 3500 and 6000 miles. The sleds had much less torque, weight and hp,except my xcr 800 boy I still miss that lion, than my Apex. IMO the ripsaw is one of the best all around trail performers I have owned. Replacing with a fully clipped 1.25 Ripsaw with 240 nails,think it will hook up? My experience has been with the bigger hp sleds the more studs the less pull throughs. Also I have and continue to stud outer band and have never had a failure there. on the outer band I run them all in the middle instead of trying not to replicate strike lines and have been fine, your cornering bite comes from the outer band,acceleration and stopping from inner.
shanksyamaha
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Re: Studs
This is true, the more studs you have the less work each stud has to do to gain traction. Less stress per stud equals less stud pull outs. Problem is you gain more rotatin mass which slows acceleration and top speed. I like to run 144, Its a good balance of traction and weight. If I ran more studs I would likely experience less tear outs but more weight...
I hear people all the time who are not sure if they want to stud or not so as a compromise they only put in a few studs. Then they experience way more tear outs. People who put 96 studs in an apex are putting alot of stress on each one of those studs
The second statement I also agree with. The problem wth extra bite during cornering is it tends to increase the sleds tendency to push in the corners. That is the main reason I dont stud the outside of the track. All thought it would increase my sleds biting ability in corners, It makes it want to push harder also... Im quite fond of 144 or 192 down the middle in a short tracker...
tstewartfn14 said:My experience has been with the bigger hp sleds the more studs the less pull throughs.
your cornering bite comes from the outer band,acceleration and stopping from inner.
This is true, the more studs you have the less work each stud has to do to gain traction. Less stress per stud equals less stud pull outs. Problem is you gain more rotatin mass which slows acceleration and top speed. I like to run 144, Its a good balance of traction and weight. If I ran more studs I would likely experience less tear outs but more weight...
I hear people all the time who are not sure if they want to stud or not so as a compromise they only put in a few studs. Then they experience way more tear outs. People who put 96 studs in an apex are putting alot of stress on each one of those studs
The second statement I also agree with. The problem wth extra bite during cornering is it tends to increase the sleds tendency to push in the corners. That is the main reason I dont stud the outside of the track. All thought it would increase my sleds biting ability in corners, It makes it want to push harder also... Im quite fond of 144 or 192 down the middle in a short tracker...
breakinbarrs
Expert
studs
Back in the day of our 1990 fuji 500's we had six in our riding clan, 96 to 144 studs in sleds respectively and found very little to no difference in top end between them. Top end is more hp to drag coefficient, terrain conditions and wind direction. than 3 lb. of rotating mass. When you hook up and get a few lengths on the lake, it is an mf to make em back unless you are considerably faster. I know some one is gonna say they saw 2 mph on the gps,with less track weight, thats fine, I have seen cars in 1/4 mile runs turn faster top speeds and lose,get out in front and don't look back! Also, learn how to draft and you will always beat a similar sled.
Back in the day of our 1990 fuji 500's we had six in our riding clan, 96 to 144 studs in sleds respectively and found very little to no difference in top end between them. Top end is more hp to drag coefficient, terrain conditions and wind direction. than 3 lb. of rotating mass. When you hook up and get a few lengths on the lake, it is an mf to make em back unless you are considerably faster. I know some one is gonna say they saw 2 mph on the gps,with less track weight, thats fine, I have seen cars in 1/4 mile runs turn faster top speeds and lose,get out in front and don't look back! Also, learn how to draft and you will always beat a similar sled.
breakinbarrs
Expert
studs
Shanks, I stay at 20% of total studs on outer band and that helps limit push, I think the side bite is an even trade. Just my humble opinion.
Shanks, I stay at 20% of total studs on outer band and that helps limit push, I think the side bite is an even trade. Just my humble opinion.
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