When to change oil filter?

I'll have to run the numbers and see if it pays off. I'm consistent with WIX filters across the board on everything I own, but run different oils depending on application. Usually run Amsoil in my Nytro but did run Mystik one year as My local store was out of Amsoil. My car and truck I run Mobil 5000, they have great rebates locally all the time so I get a 5 quart jug for $7. In my wheeler I run Shell Rotella T6, again able to find great sales locally.
Just thought I share some info I got from a rep and I know in my first order I save over $40. That was for 6 qts of 5w-30 and for 4 qts of the 0w-40 for my sled. I can get the 5w-30 for $5.00 a qt which I feel is awesome for a full synthetic.
 
Just thought I share some info I got from a rep and I know in my first order I save over $40. That was for 6 qts of 5w-30 and for 4 qts of the 0w-40 for my sled. I can get the 5w-30 for $5.00 a qt which I feel is awesome for a full synthetic.

Nice! I had meant to say thanks for the heads up in my previous reply!
 
The age old oil discussion.... I have run Mobil 1 in everything from mini-bikes, weed whackers, cars, boats, sleds, trucks, lawn mowers, motorcycles, etc. NEVER once had an oil related failure and every engine I tore down showed minimal wear... like most high quality synthetics I suspect. A high quality oil and top filter is cheap insurance, you cant detect moisture via mileage so why not change it, I actually enjoy changing oil too, instant gratification!
 
So for those of us who change oil and filter annually, I do it in the fall, so there is no moisture in the beginning of the season. Or do you do it in the spring to get the moisture out before storage?
 
I do everything in the fall.

Pete
 
Same here. With me storing my sleds in the 3rd bay of my home garage, I wait until fall to do oil and filter change.
 
I change my engine oil, filter and chain case oil every 2500 miles. It's never at the beginning or end of the season.
Over 19,000 on it and still runs strong.
 
Dr I use the same timing used in marine oils, change them after the moisture is most likely to enter the system so you are not storing moisture over the down season. For my boat I just pulled it so will change the lower unit gear oil, then store for winter. For the sled, change it in spring before putting up for summer... Most of the time no sign of any condensation but if there was you want it out prior to storage.
 
I change in the Fall, sled doesn't start all summer then dump it.
My bike is stored in the 50* cellar & has a clear lexan pulsar engine cover, you can see the white milky film the old oil is collecting, wouldn't wanna run that for the season. Done it that way for all 65k on it.
 
That is interesting with the clear cover you can actually see the condensation as it happens over the summer... tough call then as my logic has been most of the condensation / moisture would be happening during the season, running the engine, hot, cold, etc so end of year in spring draining and refilling fresh would get all that out before storing it. Now if more is getting in during the summer six of one, half a dozen of another... do you let it sit all summer, change in fall so moisture free to start, may be better. I didnt change last spring as it was new to me so I am changing the oil this coming week so lets see what is inside from summer storage...
 
That's old Summer oil, probably 3500-4000 miles on it.
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I always change my oil in the fall to get the summer moisture out. Once I put my sled away in the spring It doesn't get fired up again until mid October.
 
Dr I use the same timing used in marine oils, change them after the moisture is most likely to enter the system so you are not storing moisture over the down season. For my boat I just pulled it so will change the lower unit gear oil, then store for winter. For the sled, change it in spring before putting up for summer... Most of the time no sign of any condensation but if there was you want it out prior to storage.
The lower gear unit definitely has to be changed in the fall. If a seal has failed there can be a lot of water in there which doesn't sit well with -40 we get in Saskatchewan.
 
Makes sense now that you are seeing moisture in used oil with 3500+ on it... everyone makes their own decisions but I still stand by the idea of changing the oil in any engine or gear case (sled, boat, lawn mower, etc) when you put it away after using it for a season, never store anything with old oil inside my Father used to say. Many good articles on the why's, below is a quote from one I found.

" ... If you own a 4 stroke motor, change the crankcase oil and filter at this time. Moisture and acids in old oil will pit bearings and other engine parts while in storage, so you need to drain it. First warm up the engine so more of the dirty oil will drain out and impurities will flush out more easily.... "


 

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Makes sense now that you are seeing moisture in used oil with 3500+ on it... everyone makes their own decisions but I still stand by the idea of changing the oil in any engine or gear case (sled, boat, lawn mower, etc) when you put it away after using it for a season, never store anything with old oil inside my Father used to say. Many good articles on the why's, below is a quote from one I found.

" ... If you own a 4 stroke motor, change the crankcase oil and filter at this time. Moisture and acids in old oil will pit bearings and other engine parts while in storage, so you need to drain it. First warm up the engine so more of the dirty oil will drain out and impurities will flush out more easily.... "

I guess you could say there are pros and cons to doing it both in the spring or fall. I think everyone does there maintance a little differently but from the sounds of it these motors aren't super picky as people are putting a ton of miles on them without engine failure due to warn bearings and such. It probably makes a difference how people store them too that will determine how much moisture will make it inside the engine.
 


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