Jim85IROC
Newbie
- Joined
- Oct 17, 2007
- Messages
- 4
Maybe I'm misunderstanding the thread here, or at least the terminology, but if your steering is too heavy, it sounds like you're adjusting wrong. To me "heavy" steering means way too much ski pressure, hard to turn, darts like hell. If that's the case, you don't want to pull up on your limiter straps and back off on the front skid spring! That puts more weight on the springs because the center of the sled is no longer supporting it. You want to loosen the straps and add preload to that front skid spring. This will raise the center of the sled, which will take weight off the front of the skis and relieve pressure. I would think that with those slydog skis that you could run less ski pressure than stock and still have plenty of bite in the skis.
Grimm
TY 4 Stroke God
We'll get ya there...this is how YOU are going to learn how to set it up, not your friend.
First, the Slydogs are supposed to be at zero to 1/8" toe in. Considering any other ski, except for maybe the Skidoo Pilots, will increase steering effort. Slydogs are an easy steer ski.
Shim the skis under the rubber bumpers (most likely the front with Slydogs) until the front carbide on the runners are raised just slightly off the ground. See link: http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles ... r_Shim.htm
Start by increasing the spring pressure on the front track shock. This will take some of the pressure off of the skis and rear track shock.
Take it out for a rip and start to play with settings a little bit at a time.
First, the Slydogs are supposed to be at zero to 1/8" toe in. Considering any other ski, except for maybe the Skidoo Pilots, will increase steering effort. Slydogs are an easy steer ski.
Shim the skis under the rubber bumpers (most likely the front with Slydogs) until the front carbide on the runners are raised just slightly off the ground. See link: http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles ... r_Shim.htm
Start by increasing the spring pressure on the front track shock. This will take some of the pressure off of the skis and rear track shock.
Take it out for a rip and start to play with settings a little bit at a time.
Sled Solutions
Expert
Jim85IROC said:Maybe I'm misunderstanding the thread here, or at least the terminology, but if your steering is too heavy, it sounds like you're adjusting wrong. To me "heavy" steering means way too much ski pressure, hard to turn, darts like hell. If that's the case, you don't want to pull up on your limiter straps and back off on the front skid spring! That puts more weight on the springs because the center of the sled is no longer supporting it. You want to loosen the straps and add preload to that front skid spring. This will raise the center of the sled, which will take weight off the front of the skis and relieve pressure. I would think that with those slydog skis that you could run less ski pressure than stock and still have plenty of bite in the skis.
I thought the same thing but was told by a very reputable Yamaha guy to suck it up at least one hole.
Is it possible that the extra length track is throwing more weight forward? I don't see how that is possible.
Sled Solutions
Expert
Grimm said:We'll get ya there...this is how YOU are going to learn how to set it up, not your friend.
First, the Slydogs are supposed to be at zero to 1/8" toe in. Considering any other ski, except for maybe the Skidoo Pilots, will increase steering effort. Slydogs are an easy steer ski.
Shim the skis under the rubber bumpers (most likely the front with Slydogs) until the front carbide on the runners are raised just slightly off the ground. See link: http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles ... r_Shim.htm
Start by increasing the spring pressure on the front track shock. This will take some of the pressure off of the skis and rear track shock.
Take it out for a rip and start to play with settings a little bit at a time.
Thank you for the link.......the problem is everyone has different idea's as how to fix this problem and some are as different as apples to oranges.
So if I increase spring pressure by taking the spring in I'm going to relieve ski pressure........hmmmm.
Should I let more preload out of the front shock springs?
unpride
Expert
suspension is a science its difficult to get everything dialed in. What does the pre load on the front of the skid acomplish? On a MX bike you set your race sag and go from there why cant sled be that simple?
DITCHBANGER
Expert
dont give up without trying a few things...i have a 153 with 10 inch wide ski's..was real hard turning at 1st..i played with front shocks and front shock in rear suspension and went up a hole in my drop bracket..limit straps were loose to begin with,its like there is 50lbs less on the front end..steering is effortless..even with the big skis..hang in there..
NB-NYTRO
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
This kind of sounds like way the Viper originally rode. Alot of guys went and cranked up the pre-load to max on the front skid shock. Then the sleds railed awesome through the corners. I really think going 136 has really changed alot more then you think. I really like the way my FX rode. She was a hand full at times. You have to be really on top of things at all time. I do have some dialing in to do for sure once the springa settle. I would definetly try cranking up the front shock on the skid especially with the 136.
Superman
TY 4 Stroke Master
Paul try ski-savers. Seriously they worked for Me and others. They go between the ski and the carbide and mount on the 3 rearward holes of the ski. IMO it minimizes the contact patch of the ski on harder surfaces. Also I believe it helps improve caster thus reducing darting. I use them on My mountain ski bottoms and if I'm not mistaken some guys run them on slydog skis. Scott Bergstrom sent Me them with My tripple points and I was thrilled from the first ride. Really cut down on steering effort. For 10 bucks its a cheap experiment.
Have you checked to see what kind of bias you have with the ski when its sitting on the floor. What I'm getting at is the shim theory of the stock Yamaha skis. I don't know what you're using for rubbers for the mounting of the slydogs. Just bouncing ideas around in My head.
Have you checked to see what kind of bias you have with the ski when its sitting on the floor. What I'm getting at is the shim theory of the stock Yamaha skis. I don't know what you're using for rubbers for the mounting of the slydogs. Just bouncing ideas around in My head.
Sled Solutions said:skidooboy said:paul remember, this isnt out of the box anymore. you totally changed the geometry of the sled when you stretched it to 136. you will have teething pains trying to get it set up. as stated above set the sled back to stock for your weight and go from there, small changes and write down what you did when you hate it and when you like it. then you will be able to duplicate what you like and try to tune from there.
sucking the limiters will add ski pressure. sounds like you need to play with the dampning/rebound on the gytr shocks up front, and play with the front and rear spring preloads on the rear. also might need to adjust the transfer to get what you are looking for.
keep asking questions and keep us posted on your findings. maybe try a set of yamaha mountain skis they are wider and float better in the powder. their main drawback is light ski pressure and understeering on the trail. which may be what the doctor ordered in your case. ski
I understand that it's not out of the box but the 136 shouldn't have changed things this much IMHO. I'm planning on going back up on Sunday next weekend to try again so I guess wish me luck.
I have had two Renegade X sleds (still have one) and they have alot more ski pressure. the fix has always been to crank up the front shock on the skid. More pressure on this shock will give you less steering effort. I have always balanced it with throttle & sometimes shifting my weight to the back of the sled.
In the end my renegades still have alot more ski pressure than the 121" tracks.
Personally, I dont mind the extra ski pressure because when I turn the bars, the sled goes where I want, always very predictable.
Now my Nitro rides & handels great, just starting to adjust things. THe nitro handels better than my buddies xp.
I'm sure you will get it set up and be happy with it.
Good Luck
jds1000
Expert
I have a std FX Nytro and I'm having the opposite problem. I have Doo Pilots with 6 inch shapers in the middle and the front end feels too light. I'm thinking of shortening the front limiter strap to get more ski pressure. I don't mind it with the light front because it still steers good but the front comes up too quickly while exiting turns. It sounds to Me that your skis and setup are way too aggressive for a rider forward sled.
Sled Solutions
Expert
jds1000 said:I have a std FX Nytro and I'm having the opposite problem. I have Doo Pilots with 6 inch shapers in the middle and the front end feels too light. I'm thinking of shortening the front limiter strap to get more ski pressure. I don't mind it with the light front because it still steers good but the front comes up too quickly while exiting turns. It sounds to Me that your skis and setup are way too aggressive for a rider forward sled.
What have you done as far as set up goes so far? Where is your limiter strap set?
I wonder how much of this is the 4stroke engine breaking being felt.Sure sounds like it.
unchained
Expert
Re: set-up
Are you sure? TOE IN will handle better??fxr said:i,m not trying to be a wise guy here but you let your buddy play with the settings on your sled and you don,t even know what he did. i would suggest you take the time to put your suspension settings back to stock for you weight. it sounds like you got the settings all over the map. put it back to stock and do small adjustments and keep track of what you have done. as for the slydog skis do not go to 1/4 inch toe out! they work good with 1/8 inch toe in !!! i think you are trying to do too much at once. it takes a while to get the set-up on a four stroke .good luck
BOZZMAN
Veteran
For the guys that are riding a four stroke for the first time you will have too get used to the engine braking . When you let off the throttle quick and the clutches start to backshift it puts alot of weight on the front of these sleds . You can hear the wining of the clutches and drive train as you are slowing down . It just takes a little throttle to get ride of wining noise and reduce engine braking . The only time I completely back off the throttle is when I am on the brakes coming into the corner . Once in the corner never completely let off the throttle it makes the sled corner badly . If I need to control my speed in a corner I will hit the brake a little but still stay on the throttle . For those of you that arent sure what I am talking about try it the next time you ride . Listen to your sled when you completely chop the throttle you can really hear the clutches and drive train wine now just touch the throttle a little and the backshifting and four stroke braking goes away . You should never hear the clutches backshifting in the middle of the corner unless you are trying to stop . If you can here the wine of the clutches in the middle of the corner you are not giving it enough gas . It does not take much throttle to reduce the effect of the engine braking . Also there is too much weight tranfer with this sled so if you get on the throttle hard in the middle of a corner the ski pressure is to lite and it wont steer so your first reaction is to chop the throttle and that just causes more problems . The only way to fix the weight transfer problem is to get different coupler blocks . I cut down a set of block off my F-8 today that I will try this weekend . On the lightest setting thay are stock and they get thicker from there on the other three sides by 3mm . I will let you know how they work . I had the F-8 blocks in last weekend on the lightest setting but for me they were too thick and the sled didnt transfer enough weight . It kept the skis on the ground in the corners and helped alot .Now that I cut the block I should be able to find a good balance of weight tranfer and cornering .
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