jimmie d
TY 4 Stroke Master
168 down the centre, 1.325 without any problems. but running 136" M10.
Jim
Jim
Who studed their Ripsaw's
- Thread starter Mighty
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scott boddie
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1800 miles then studs got ripped out on rock and took out my front heat exchanger after spending another $1000 .00 plus many hours of labor to do changeing of track and exchanger i still dont know if i want to stud again i had 144 woodys 1.325 i still might just go down the middle this time i kept braking studs on outside of track
Mighty
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That's the kinda crap I don't need or want Scott.
I installed the rear cooler on my Warrior and added protectors even thou a good source said I didn't need too and I still grazed it the last time out :shock:
I'm glad I listened to the guys on here and added the ones I did or I would have pierced it for sure
Now I need to install taller ones.
I installed the rear cooler on my Warrior and added protectors even thou a good source said I didn't need too and I still grazed it the last time out :shock:
I'm glad I listened to the guys on here and added the ones I did or I would have pierced it for sure
Now I need to install taller ones.I found I didn't need 192 so I dropped back to 144 down the middle ,double angled backers,woody's 325 megabites tall alum. nuts expen. yes safer yes , with all the transfer in this sled it can hook awsome. Cut out windows in track ,didn't clip ,marginal cond. for a lot of our riding here in western ny ,no hyfax wear no engine hot prob. lights never been on. Very happy with sled 1st 1000 mls. 
Yama-Crazy
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I'll never stud again unless I run the lake ALOT....not worth it at all! Cost $300 to stud and a new track is 400.00...I get alot more out of just my ripsaw track for $400.00 Eventually with studs you will have exspense and sometimes BIG ones like what happened to you. So it cost you 700.00 now for studs and track plus the installation of the studs....THEN it cost you an extra $$$$ on new track and heat exchangerscott boddie said:
:ORC and possible other damage...HEY I'm really happy without them just ride accordingly is my feeling on studs.chrishall
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Tfin
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I'll never again ride a sled without studs!
120 Woody's Megabites w/ round aluminum backers - $180
Allen wrenches - $3
The safety having a studded track provides in seen AND unforseen circumstances........PRICELESS!
I don't care if I have to replace a track or a heat exchanger at some point. At least they can be replaced. My life can't.
But hey....that's just me.
120 Woody's Megabites w/ round aluminum backers - $180
Allen wrenches - $3
The safety having a studded track provides in seen AND unforseen circumstances........PRICELESS!
I don't care if I have to replace a track or a heat exchanger at some point. At least they can be replaced. My life can't.
But hey....that's just me.
Yama-Crazy
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Those would work great on ice and drag racing on ice...1800 miles on my sled so far without studs, that ripsaw track works great for me and I dont miss studs a bit!....but like I said they are way cool on a lake along with sharp carbides! 
If I lived on or near a lake and rode it alot.... I would consider studs, my opinion is if you dont >>>its not worth it. Ride >acordingling< to trail conditions slow down if corners are icy or use the ice to slide your back end around so you can get around turns better and faster! Just please be safe and very conservative in your judgement with your speed on trails with or without studs...speed is what kills, and people who ride without consideration of other on the trail should sign up in snowcross competitions. Most new sleds are comming with much larger lugs nowadays and I just dont see the use in studs with the way the winters have been lately. Thats my >opinion< on this topic THE END. 
If I lived on or near a lake and rode it alot.... I would consider studs, my opinion is if you dont >>>its not worth it. Ride >acordingling< to trail conditions slow down if corners are icy or use the ice to slide your back end around so you can get around turns better and faster! Just please be safe and very conservative in your judgement with your speed on trails with or without studs...speed is what kills, and people who ride without consideration of other on the trail should sign up in snowcross competitions. Most new sleds are comming with much larger lugs nowadays and I just dont see the use in studs with the way the winters have been lately. Thats my >opinion< on this topic THE END.
Yama-Crazy
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On hardpack My 600 rated cc 4 stroke RAGE is beating 670's and 700 ski-doos with studs and pipe to answer the question and on hardpack studs will NOT make a difference the only difference is you WILL loose top end.MightyWarrior said:
HOOKS UP!YamahaRx-Warrior
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I tore my track and heat exhanger on the 03. It was a outside belt on the track. I plan on studding my warrior If I keep it or the new sled down the center. I will never pick the outside again they tear much easyer.
It was a costly repair on my 03 but was worth it for all the traction and saftey.
It was a costly repair on my 03 but was worth it for all the traction and saftey.
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
I didn't stud my 05 RX-1 ER, but I wish I did.
With 3000 miles on it now, mostly riding on an ice base with 1/4 - 1/2" of granular snow on top, the tips of the lugs on the ripsaw are the only parts of the track trying to grip.
My lug tips are starting to fray and split. Already a couple of tips have broken off.
My theory is all of the lateral loads are going through the tips and they can't handle it over the miles. With studs, they take most of the load in these trail conditions and the lugs don't get worked as hard.
Flippers Vector's track looks new with close to the same mileage in similar conditions - but with 144 goldiggers. My RX-1's track looks like all of the ripsaw tips will be broken off over the next few 1000 miles.
One warning for 05 RX-1 riders...
I don't know if this is a really a potential problem for stud contact, but the lower w-arm bushings wear out quickly on the monoshock skid (Yamaha has an updated bushing to reduce the wear rate). When they start to really go, the track loosens up a lot and very quickly. Over a few hundred miles (near the 2000 mile mark) my track went from 1.25" of droop at 22 lbs to well over 2" of droop. After tightening it did it again before I noticed the bushings were toast.
With 3000 miles on it now, mostly riding on an ice base with 1/4 - 1/2" of granular snow on top, the tips of the lugs on the ripsaw are the only parts of the track trying to grip.
My lug tips are starting to fray and split. Already a couple of tips have broken off.
My theory is all of the lateral loads are going through the tips and they can't handle it over the miles. With studs, they take most of the load in these trail conditions and the lugs don't get worked as hard.
Flippers Vector's track looks new with close to the same mileage in similar conditions - but with 144 goldiggers. My RX-1's track looks like all of the ripsaw tips will be broken off over the next few 1000 miles.
One warning for 05 RX-1 riders...
I don't know if this is a really a potential problem for stud contact, but the lower w-arm bushings wear out quickly on the monoshock skid (Yamaha has an updated bushing to reduce the wear rate). When they start to really go, the track loosens up a lot and very quickly. Over a few hundred miles (near the 2000 mile mark) my track went from 1.25" of droop at 22 lbs to well over 2" of droop. After tightening it did it again before I noticed the bushings were toast.
studdog
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
WE run alot of ice in canada and see studs as a great safety feature. With the ripsaw don't need more than 96 up the middle on 121 inch track. I run 198 1.4 inch on warrior 136 inch track. For me that is the right balance between traction and handling. I ran 144 down the middle of 05 mach Z and that worked well also. studdog
RX-Dave
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Running 144 1325 Stainless Woodys with no problem at all. Also, there was no performance difference (at least top MPH) when I added.
Just got back from 5 days of riding between Baraga, MI and Ontanogon and the trails were in good shape, but you were quicikly suprised by off-camber corners that were blown right down to the ice. That is when I was glad I had them.
Like I have said before, 1.25 tracks hook up great, but they do not stop. It is like saying a 4WD truck will go better in the snow than 2wd, but it does not stop any better.
I plan on upgrading to a better 1.25 or a 1.375 strait paddle track. The Ripsaw is a "all-around" track. They work good, but I have previously used the 9883 Camo snowcross, and it is leaps and bounds better in loose snow over the RipSaw. The Ripsaw is a groomed trail 1.25.
Just got back from 5 days of riding between Baraga, MI and Ontanogon and the trails were in good shape, but you were quicikly suprised by off-camber corners that were blown right down to the ice. That is when I was glad I had them.
Like I have said before, 1.25 tracks hook up great, but they do not stop. It is like saying a 4WD truck will go better in the snow than 2wd, but it does not stop any better.
I plan on upgrading to a better 1.25 or a 1.375 strait paddle track. The Ripsaw is a "all-around" track. They work good, but I have previously used the 9883 Camo snowcross, and it is leaps and bounds better in loose snow over the RipSaw. The Ripsaw is a groomed trail 1.25.
Yama-Crazy
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If I rode that much ice as you are yes I would stud ...thats why I usually have to trailer 3-5 hours north because thin snow conditions here lack of snow on trails is hard on everything and its not fun to ride either.Almost RX-1 said:
I ran 192 1.375 stud boy in my 03 xc 800 with 1800 miles and no tear outs! I have ripped studs out on every other track but not the ripsaw. I did however bend about 10% right over. On the rx is going to get the same treatment but angled backers! $.02
Jeff
Jeff
