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Wildchild or CR Racing

With the pivot post on the RTX all you have to do is rotate the bars forward. That with a 2" extension makes it perfect for me. I like the rotation of the bars with the stock angle of the steering post. I don't want to be pushing and pulling on the bars. I've really grown accustomed to the up and down motion of the stock steering post. I still say Yami should have put the pivot column on all of the Nytro's.
 

ordered mine sent kurt my paypal feb 18th (last weds), parts in my mailbox today feb 27th. thats bc to michigan in 9 days total. great service. love the product too.

got's me sum wrenchin ta doo dis weeken.

ski
 
i'm got my wildchild kit still sitting on the shelf, won't work with the 8" riser i have, not enough cable length. not sure if i want to get a cable extension or sell the kit.
 
You'll want a shorter riser, the wildchild kit raises the bars about 1.5". When I installed mine I had to drop from a 4" riser down to a 2" to get the same bar height.
 
Here is the WC installed with Rox riser, cable length was good for 4in riser and WC mod, not enough to raise the riser to max though. I will put a RSI bar on next to offset the rise in the factory bars, at that point it will be perfect for standing and sitting, I love the relocate mod, its so much easier to handle under acceleration, and way better for overall standing, I stood all day Friday and never felt tired in 190 miles!
 

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What "modification" needs to be done to the lower bushing?

From the looks of it I can just fab up the brackets.

Is the lower bushing modified or replaced with another part number and both halves of the bushing or just one?
 
murph said:
What "modification" needs to be done to the lower bushing?

From the looks of it I can just fab up the brackets.

Is the lower bushing modified or replaced with another part number and both halves of the bushing or just one?

Yeah if you have the tools and the skills to do it, but I figured the cost vs.time wasn't enough to bother, plus the billet mount is pretty sweet and well thought out. The bottom bushing is machined at a angle, I believe its a stock bushing, just angled, its easy to swap. As stated above you have to bend the bushing bolts 1/8in to alow corect installation, the only thing I found was the steering joint was extremely hard to get apart, I ended up using a air chissel to seperate them.
 
I'm a sit down fast trail rider on an XTX...I'd say 20% is standing up when attacking trails,jumps or ditchbagging....should I get the WC relo or just syay stock with a 2" anti vibe RoX riser?
 
Daranello said:
I'm a sit down fast trail rider on an XTX...I'd say 20% is standing up when attacking trails,jumps or ditchbagging....should I get the WC relo or just syay stock with a 2" anti vibe RoX riser?

Get ahold of us at OFT Racing. I don't care if you buy our parts or not, but I'd like for you to have a comfortable ride. We'll go through your riding habits, likes and dislikes, and help you make a decision from there.

Click the ad below to contact us via email, PM me or SCMURS, or call 307.388.0105
 
I believe the correct statement here is simply;

"you get what you pay for"

Sure you can always find something cheaper, but will it hold up or be better?

I've been burned too many times in the past on "a good deal" only to have to spend 3x as much down the road plus the time lost and labor to fix the "cheap" option.

do it once and do it right.
 
The CR kit is two small brackets that are very thin. Cheesy kit IMO. I bought the wildchild kit when they first came out, switched to OFT last spring, and have seen the CR in person. The OFT kit is hands down the nicest. Solid machined steering blocks, oil lite bushings, ect. There really is no comparison.
 
Nikolai said:
The CR kit is two small brackets that are very thin. Cheesy kit IMO. I bought the wildchild kit when they first came out, switched to OFT last spring, and have seen the CR in person. The OFT kit is hands down the nicest. Solid machined steering blocks, oil lite bushings, ect. There really is no comparison.

cheezy? ha ha

I just used a couple of strips of aluminum on each side and drilled some holes. Moved it further forward than any of them and didn't cost a thing.

The strength is not in the bearing holder, but it the mounts to the gas tank frame. That is the weak point and were any bending / flexing occurs....
Also, considering that it flexed before anything was done.
 


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