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If you buy the original and not the copy cat version, You should not have a problem lifting the VK.

Woodsrider, I agree that they are not loud in the powder, but he asked about bringing it in his garage with his wife and kid asleep. And for that I would say it is extremely loud and his wife just might want to kill him.

We did not install the spacers in the kits we did as there was too much negative affect before boost at our elevation (10,000'+). We run up to 10 PSI. I have heard of people at sea level running 6 or 7 without the shim. I don't know if they had issues, but I know we are close to the limit...

A straight pipe under the tunnel is extremely loud. If you are running in powder it is different, but with no snow or in a garage it is very loud.

You should be able to switch from the electronic controller to a manual controller with no problem.

We simply build a pipe that goes between the existing turbo outlet pipe and the muffler. This relocates the muffler undertunnel, but can be changed back simply by removing this additional section. A shield is included to close off the section of the tunnel that is open by making this change...

We have done quite a few of these. I'll try to take a picture of one in the next day or two. A local shop makes the pipe that relocates the muffler.

Which one is it? You can have either the 2nd or 3rd generation box with a Phazer. The 3rd generation box is much smaller than the 2nd.

The fuel delivery is simply supplied in a different way and with a different "mcx efi box" because of the lack of secondary injectors that are in the intercooler on a standard kit.

As was stated above, the kit will have no headshim or intercooler. It will use a different EFI box/fuel delivery system. The Pz turbo show with a max of 180 is not the turbo. The turbo is the same as the stock kit. The limiting factor for hp is partially the fuel delivery.

Not to hijack the thread, but MCX has the low boost (less expensive) kit for the Nytro available this year.

I hate to say that I forgot to take the pictures. I'll see if I can get some this week.

If you don't mind the stock fuel tank capacity, why not buy a take off from someone that has installed the trailtank?

We have relocated a few skids. We have moved them back between 1-3 inches. We have also moved them up into the tunnel more. This does help with the approach angle. We will be doing another of these this week and take a picture to show the difference.

No you do not.

You have not lost boost, but you have lost atmospheric pressure. This means that the total pressure in the engine is less. You can increase the boost pressure to make up for the loss in atmospheric pressure, however this is difficult with the pulley system on a S/C. The atmospheric loss is...

I used to make them, but have found that you can buy some that are made for ATVs that are very light and cheap and 10' long. Because of the wire coating, these are lighter than the 5' cables I would make.

The display is currently $700.00. As I did it, I know that your EFI box was only remapped 1 time. I think the MCX display would have been the better way to go, but hopefully you have this setup figured out and have a great season.

Search Pingle for kill switches. They have a bar and panel mount that works well.

Gravity worx is also a great piece. I prefer it an snobunje as I don't like the one finger pull of the goldfinger. But that is a preference thing.