ecarnell
Extreme
Just in the middle of putting on my Rx-1 power-up kit from Matt - and I have not done locking collar update on my 03 yet.
My question is how do you change the bearing a collar out (since I have the secondary which I have installed the new spring and helix at 70 (6 and 1)?
I've been reading up on this site for possible instructions - though couldn't find any, except how to tighten up the new 04 style collar.
I see I have to remove the retaining ring - but how do you pull the bearing and old collar out? Any special tools needed to preform this? This would be my first time changing a bearing before on a sled (besides an idler wheel), so please excuse my stupid questions some might think.
thanks.
My question is how do you change the bearing a collar out (since I have the secondary which I have installed the new spring and helix at 70 (6 and 1)?
I've been reading up on this site for possible instructions - though couldn't find any, except how to tighten up the new 04 style collar.
I see I have to remove the retaining ring - but how do you pull the bearing and old collar out? Any special tools needed to preform this? This would be my first time changing a bearing before on a sled (besides an idler wheel), so please excuse my stupid questions some might think.
thanks.
I found it to be easiest to pull the chaincase off, that way you can slide the jackshaft out and install the new locking nut, slide in the locking collar from the outside into the bearing and tighten. The old tapered collar should slide right off the jackshaft, there is really no need to remove the bearing unless you need to replace it. 
shemmp
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Jackshaft
OK, I have been trying to determine if I need to replace my jackshaft bearing and upgrade to the 2004 setup yet. What is the best indication that the bearing is going.
If I look at the bearing it looks fine and is well lubricated. I do notice the sleeve on the jackshaft is slightly more on the inside (engine side) then the bearing itself. I am not sure if this is normal.
Input please.
OK, I have been trying to determine if I need to replace my jackshaft bearing and upgrade to the 2004 setup yet. What is the best indication that the bearing is going.
If I look at the bearing it looks fine and is well lubricated. I do notice the sleeve on the jackshaft is slightly more on the inside (engine side) then the bearing itself. I am not sure if this is normal.
Input please.
Someone needs to post the correct length the jackshaft should be sticking out past the bear. The reason for the new collar is to lock it in place. What's happens like it did on mine is the shaft moves through the bearing. Mine move 1/4 inch!!!!! I'll post the length later.
LazyBastard
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The shaft shouldn't move, its held in place by the drive sprocket in the chaincase. Only the collar should move. You set alignment by tightening the drive sprocket on, then install the collar to wedge the shaft and bearing together.
black john
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jack shaft
just install the top gear first this will but the shoulder up aganst the bearing in the chain case. that is what should control the lenth. i have done a few of these and thats what works for me.
just install the top gear first this will but the shoulder up aganst the bearing in the chain case. that is what should control the lenth. i have done a few of these and thats what works for me.
shemmp
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Anyone able to post pictures of before and after upgrade?
What is the best way to install the upgrade? My dealer is telling that they can do it for $150.00 as long as they do not have to take that shaft out. Can this really be done without taking the jackshaft out? If they have to take the shaft out they are saying the cost will be around $250.00 to $300.00.
By the looks of it, it doesn't seem to bad to just take the shaft out.
What is the best way to install the upgrade? My dealer is telling that they can do it for $150.00 as long as they do not have to take that shaft out. Can this really be done without taking the jackshaft out? If they have to take the shaft out they are saying the cost will be around $250.00 to $300.00.
By the looks of it, it doesn't seem to bad to just take the shaft out.
SumpBuster
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Just lock the secondary against the tapered sleeve. It can then go nowhere until the bearing fails. I set the offset (.590" I think) with depth mics and then made up shims so I had about .001" pressure against the sleeve, as I did not want to put undue pressure against the bearing's inner race. No problems. I did have one slide out previously and felt it immediately..and the dealer had my jackshaft out when I trashed the engine, so I do not think he 'set' it in. It's about 2 degrees and is a locking taper, if set properly. So the pulley pushing against it will make sure it can never slide out. I'd do it even with the threaded one.
LazyBastard
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I don't think you can do it without taking out the shaft. shemmp: if your dealer is quoting those kind of prices than they are robbing you. Shop rates are $95 to $105 CDN per hour most places, and its a 1-hour job.
SumpBuster
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The nut has to go between the bearing and the chaincase. I don't see how it can go through the inner bearing race to get there. Shaft must be slid toward the chaincase, to get the nut over.
Haven't done one, but that's what the shop manual looks like to me.
Haven't done one, but that's what the shop manual looks like to me.
Buckeye
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Master of Faster said:I found it to be easiest to pull the chaincase off, that way you can slide the jackshaft out and install the new locking nut, slide in the locking collar from the outside into the bearing and tighten. The old tapered collar should slide right off the jackshaft, there is really no need to remove the bearing unless you need to replace it.
Doesn't the bearing sit on the collar? Won't the collar only fit on the shaft from the clutch side? How could you remove the old collar without removing the bearing first?
POWERHAULIC
VIP Member
I have not seen a bearing fail yet. I beleive it is mostly to do with the torquing of the upper chaincase gear.
All this jerking around changing ratios and how many people have the tools to hold and torque the shaft correctly. Not many dealers even have the tools, as when the '03 RX1 came put Yamaha was changing special tool suppliers and the supplier fell thru on delivery of the jackshaft tools.
I mentioned this last year and didn't get much comment back, but I think this is whats going on. JMHO
:ORC
All this jerking around changing ratios and how many people have the tools to hold and torque the shaft correctly. Not many dealers even have the tools, as when the '03 RX1 came put Yamaha was changing special tool suppliers and the supplier fell thru on delivery of the jackshaft tools.
I mentioned this last year and didn't get much comment back, but I think this is whats going on. JMHO
:ORC
POWERHAULIC
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And yes I have the tools, had them since early '03 when I helped an independent tool maker develop them
