yamahamaniac
Expert
Ok so say if I took the bearing off and the collar, then put the nut on, then bearing, then collar, would this work?
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
You are supposed to be able to put the nut, collar, bearing and C-Clip all on from the PTO Side w/o removing the jackshaft. I have never had to do it that way. I took my nut off and put it back on when I had the Jackshaft out. But the nut is quite a bit smaller than the OD of the bearing. It should go through the hole in the bearing's mount.
Typically, without removing the jackshaft the hardest part of replacing the bearing is getting the old bearing out and the collar off. It is much easier to remove the jackshaft and then take the bearing and collar off.
A lot of folks make a big deal about pulling the chaincase. It is not that difficult. You just have to be orderly and clean about it. There are a lot of procedures and diagrams out there. These chaincases with reverse have been built internally the same for 15+ years.
The trick to replacing the collar and bearing in place is getting the nut tight after you put the nut on the collar. There is a lot in the way. I fabbed up a wrench to do that. But, I lost confidence in getting it tight enough. So I scribed the collar's location the jackshaft and then pulled the chaincase and jackshaft. Tightened the collar/nut and then reinstalled the jackshaft. It is just a lot easier.
Typically, without removing the jackshaft the hardest part of replacing the bearing is getting the old bearing out and the collar off. It is much easier to remove the jackshaft and then take the bearing and collar off.
A lot of folks make a big deal about pulling the chaincase. It is not that difficult. You just have to be orderly and clean about it. There are a lot of procedures and diagrams out there. These chaincases with reverse have been built internally the same for 15+ years.
The trick to replacing the collar and bearing in place is getting the nut tight after you put the nut on the collar. There is a lot in the way. I fabbed up a wrench to do that. But, I lost confidence in getting it tight enough. So I scribed the collar's location the jackshaft and then pulled the chaincase and jackshaft. Tightened the collar/nut and then reinstalled the jackshaft. It is just a lot easier.
yamahamaniac
Expert
The problem with taking the chaincase apart for me is there is a lot more bolt holes I can strip out when I'm putting it back together and the last time I had it apart Dad went out at it with one of his crew from his boat and they took everything out of the case and when they put it back in he put one of the gears in backwards so all the bearings in and on the shafts coming out of the chaincase we just replaced blew again and the gear was destroyed. I don't have the money to go through that again. I'm only 17.
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
When I pull one apart I set up a 4' x 4' piece of plywood on a couple of horses and cover it with rags. Then when I take off a component, I lay it in the corner and build a sequence by stacking the parts in order. I always lay the parts down on the board with the side facing away from me when I take it off, facing down on the board. Even tough I have done dozens of these things, I still lay them out on the board. The only time that that method has been challenged is when someone else has been in the case. Then, I double check the orientation against the figures, if there is any question at all.
yamahamaniac
Expert
Yah, I could probably do it myself like that. But as long as I have to share a shed with Dad I'll never be able to keep all the parts laid out like that, he just "has" to move everything and mess it all up.
KEITHFD
Extreme
After I put everything back together, do I need to check the clutch alignment? I believe there is a tool designed for that purpose. If so, where can I get one or what can I substitute?
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
Allen Ulmer has an excellent clutch alignment tool. It has offset and Center-to-Center capability all in one tool.
KEITHFD
Extreme
OK, it's me again. I finally got the parts and the time to do the job. Most of it went OK, some not as much. I have it mostly back together, but I can't seem to get the reverse to work. I was wondering if it could be an adjustment issue or if I put something back together wrong. It doesn't seem to do anything. Is there a particular place the "forks" need to be when reinstalling the case cover? I'm going to go mess with it and see what I can do. Anyone want to buy an RX-1? 
KEITHFD
Extreme
Another stupid question...I got the chaincase side all together. I thought I had the clutch side good too, but....the new lock nut spins on the jackshaft when its running! Is this because it isn't tight enough?! God tell me I don't have to tear the entire thing down again so I can tighten it with the jackshaft out!!??
I thought 4 strokes were supposed to be low maintenance!!!!!
I thought 4 strokes were supposed to be low maintenance!!!!!
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
Not part of update. Bearing is identical.KEITHFD said:
Should add up to about $50. That's what I paid for them new from dealer.
REDUNDANT.
As I said, two washers of different thickness add up to the SAME THICKNESS as the original two SAME thickness washers of 2003!!! There is NO REASON to change these!!!!
Recall or not, has no effect on the bearings. It is your choice to change the bearings, but it is NOT APPROPRIATE to add in the price of the bearings to the "update" price.
KEITHFD
Extreme
OK fine, I understand that. I choose to change the bearing. I have it all back together and it "seems" correct. My question is should the new, updated collar/nut spin on with the shaft/bearing? I'm confident now that its tight. I know this is probally a STUPID question, but I'm in a little past my comfort zone!
KEITHFD
Extreme
My dealer got me for $89 just for the collar/nut.
bluecanuck
Extreme
KEITHFD
Extreme
THANK YOU so much for your reply. I've been at this for toooo long and need to put it to rest.
I got that nut damn tight. It spins with the shaft, not on it's on so I think that's OK.
I figured out the chaincase/forks after a little more effort. I was attempting to read my way through it but finally had to apply some common sence! I think it works better than it ever has now!
I still have a small issue of a C-clip I have left over (I know, I'm ashamed). I've looked at the exploded view over and over and can't for the life of me figure out where it would go. It's part # 99009-30400, if that means anything.
Thanks for your post!
I got that nut damn tight. It spins with the shaft, not on it's on so I think that's OK.
I figured out the chaincase/forks after a little more effort. I was attempting to read my way through it but finally had to apply some common sence! I think it works better than it ever has now!
I still have a small issue of a C-clip I have left over (I know, I'm ashamed). I've looked at the exploded view over and over and can't for the life of me figure out where it would go. It's part # 99009-30400, if that means anything.
Thanks for your post!
KEITHFD
Extreme
If I ever get this part figured out I'll attack the clutch allignment another time. I got the tool from Ulmer and it says I have some work to do there too!
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